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CRX, Wrangler
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Since I broke a timing belt last week (91 CRX Si w/ a D16a6) I decided that it would be smart for me to pull the head to check and see if my valves are OK. (I know I could have done a compression test, but I've never removed a head before, and wanted to do a few other things if my valves were OK)

Everything went well, I only tore two hoses in the removal process - so that's a success as far as I'm concerned.

I want to portmatch the head, as well as clean up any casting marks that I find on the IM or the head. I also want to replace my valve seals, replace my HG with the upgraded metal one, and throw in a set of ARP head studs.

OK, on to the questions:

How does everything look? Obviously dirty, but are there any problems that jump out to the seasoned engine builders?

How do I clean the carbon off of the pistons? I don't want to get in there with sandpaper, because I don't want to score the cylinders (which are silky smooth)

How do I clean the head prior to getting in there with my dremmel tool, and after to ensure there's no shavings left in there? I currently have the valve cover in a 1:5 mixture of simple green max (the stuff that's safe for aluminum) should I drop the head in there too after I remove the valves and stuff? I would prefer to do all of this stuff myself, rather than bringing it somewhere to get it hottanked.

Any other suggestions, or questions would be appreciated. I've never done headwork before, and I want to learn.. but I don't want to screw it up either.



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'89 CRX HF
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IMO it doesnt look that bad at all...

there was so much carbon on the valves of my sohc zc, that when i tried to stand them up they leaned to one side because of how much was on them
 

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94 G20
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maybe you could use brake cleaner on the head to disolve the carbon. and then put each piston to the top of its stroke to clean it, then you wount have to worry about the cylinder walls too much.
 

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if the carbon is not flaking off i would not worry about it much. its free compression and insulation.

m.
 

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'89 CRX HF
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shit, i used a bench grinder with a wire wheel on my valves and it still wouldnt come off. i ended up having to beadblast the valves, then wire wheel them. came out blingin shiny though :smile:
 

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IMO it doesnt look that bad at all...

there was so much carbon on the valves of my sohc zc, that when i tried to stand them up they leaned to one side because of how much was on them
that is exactly what i thought when i saw the pictures not bad at all on the head, i had pretty bad carbon build up ill see if i can post some pics up, i carefully chiseled mine off very gently now that i have a dremel i will finish it up, although i was think of reinstalling new valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Awesome!

So do you guys think I should clean up the carbon at all, or should I not worry about it and work on the valve seals, and the portmatching?

-Des!

EDIT: Anyone have a guide for doing valve seals with the head off? I found a few with the head on, but nothing for when the head is off.
 

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I used a screw driver, compressed air, and lots of brake cleaner to get if off a friends head.
There was so much, felt it had to be done. Exhaust ports where nearly clogged.
I'd say there was a 5-10mm thick layer all around.

Safe to say, there where some issues that engine had seen, but after my rebuild it seems to work just great :TU:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm also looking for a valve train removal guide.

Amazingly, I can't find anything at all in my factory service manual. (it's the online version)

I want to have torque specs and whatnot before I start taking it all apart.

-Des!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I broke two hoses while removing the head, and I want to make sure that I buy the right ones.


"Hose A" runs from a greasy box on the back of the block up to the PCV valve on the intake manifold. I think it's item number four on this list. Please confirm.

"Hose B" runs from the block, makes a U-turn, and connects to the head on the distributer side rear. I assume it's for antifreeze, but I don't know what it's called. Anyone know what hose it is, and where I can order one?



-Des!
 

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i used my dremel with a soft tiny wire wheel to clean the pistons in my z6 block (while they were still in it) worked really good and didnt make any marks on the sleeves. keep em at tdc when you are cleaning of course.
 

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1997 Civic Hatch D18Y8 M62 S/C
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Please, don't use a dremel and wire brush. It's way too much work compared to pouring on some Piston Kleen and wiping it off. Those dremel wire wheels tend to shed their bristles and you don't want that in your engine.

Check out this thread:

http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=47761&highlight=kleen

Search this forum and others and you'll find instructions on DIY head rebuilding and porting. Also, buy a Helms manual.

If you still can't find any info let me know.

I also suggest buying a new set of OEM valves and seals. They're available for around $120. Strip the head and have a machine shop check the guides, flatten the surfaces, recut the seats, and hot tank it. This can be done for around $200. After you've done all this your head will be like new.
 
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