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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Made the trip to Dallas today and picked up a 98 EX coupe 5spd! The pictures did not show all the body damage so I was able to negotiate him down from $1000 to $700. Since the front end is beat up I plan on doing a 99-00 front clip conversion. I need to track down some replacement door panels, redo the headliner try my hand a small dent repair and probably do a HeloFX coating since they hold up for few years!

I do have some questions on a few things I’ve noticed, I will take pictures and upload them soon. Main thing is he put a short ram CAI on it and there is a plug hanging so I’m not sure if there was something on the stock intake tube that it plugs into or it’s hidden somewhere near the throttle body. He left the vacuum line disconnected from the tube to the valve cover, he stuck a breather on the valve cover ?

Good thing is I also picked up a super cheap parts car that I will 16” aftermarket wheels/tires, rob headlights, possibly taillights (if sedan tails fit), full exhaust (header ect) a/c parts, heater core and a few other odds and ends I find that need swapping before I haul it off to the salvage yard for a couple hundred bucks.

I’m going to keep a eye on my local FB market to see if some stuff pops up at a decent price. It’s usually trash or complete junk here lately ?. I’ve seen eBay has cheap front end parts but I’m sure the fit and finish will be trash, if not let me know if you have used them. There is a semi local body part store where I can get the fenders for $70 each, hood for $175, bumper cover for $100, headlights for $100 each (probably go with the JDM black housings on eBay tho ?

I plan on cleaning he body up and then working my way to the suspension then to the interior since I’ll be the only one who can see it.

If you guys have some suggestions for me please post them up because I’m a complete Honda newb...I’ll post pictures soon, here was the front end damage I noticed that wasn’t in the ad pictures...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The car had a stumble when driving, the guy said the check engine light was in for o2 sensors. I swapped exhaust and put good sensors in and found the stock exhaust manifold cracked. Didn’t do much good because the headers I have needs a new gasket at the 4-2 merge. I had some new NGK plugs so I pulled the ones in the car and found the reason it was stumbling...Holy plug gap Batman!! Also found oil on cylinder 2, gonna do a compression test to see what it looks like. It does smoke in vtec.

Can I find the exhaust gasket at a parts store or do I need to order online?
 

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Sorry it should say HX not EX
so what is it EX or HX

are you aware of the vtec differences between the two?

when you say "it does smoke in vtec" does that mean it's smoking when you rev it up high? because in this case that isn't "in vtec"

please get us picture of the engine bay. show us what intake manifold it has. show us the engine block identification code

the HX has VTEC-E which causes only one of the intake valves (per cylinder) to fully open at low rpm to get better low end torque and fuel economy. it also has an EGR valve on the intake manifold

so the HX has a "low end vtec" which gets disabled at the high end thus causing the "normal" cam profile to be used all the way up to red line

beside vtec you should also know the difference in the transmission. the HX has gears similar to the DX/Y7 with an even lower final drive. good for fuel economy bad for fun

check this thread for information about the HX/Y5 trans https://www.d-series.org/forums/general-tech/313037-should-i-pull-y5-trans-junkyard.html

don't get me wrong, you got yourself a good little car to start messing around with. the engine block is fine but you should be looking for either a Z6 or Y8 head, intake, and trans

don't make the same mistake as me with trying to patch up the stock exhaust. invest the money now on a good FULL exhaust system thatll last

running a plug gap that big will surely kill the ignition coil over time. definitely replace the plugs and get your hands on a spare ignition coil for the future. they're dirt cheap at the junkyards I have quite a few in my parts storage
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
so what is it EX or HX

are you aware of the vtec differences between the two?

when you say "it does smoke in vtec" does that mean it's smoking when you rev it up high? because in this case that isn't "in vtec"

please get us picture of the engine bay. show us what intake manifold it has. show us the engine block identification code

the HX has VTEC-E which causes only one of the intake valves (per cylinder) to fully open at low rpm to get better low end torque and fuel economy. it also has an EGR valve on the intake manifold

so the HX has a "low end vtec" which gets disabled at the high end thus causing the "normal" cam profile to be used all the way up to red line

beside vtec you should also know the difference in the transmission. the HX has gears similar to the DX/Y7 with an even lower final drive. good for fuel economy bad for fun

check this thread for information about the HX/Y5 trans https://www.d-series.org/forums/general-tech/313037-should-i-pull-y5-trans-junkyard.html

don't get me wrong, you got yourself a good little car to start messing around with. the engine block is fine but you should be looking for either a Z6 or Y8 head, intake, and trans

don't make the same mistake as me with trying to patch up the stock exhaust. invest the money now on a good FULL exhaust system thatll last

running a plug gap that big will surely kill the ignition coil over time. definitely replace the plugs and get your hands on a spare ignition coil for the future. they're dirt cheap at the junkyards I have quite a few in my parts storage

It's a HX with a D16y5 Vtec-E, yeah I'm still new to the Honda world so when I hear vtec I think of 4800 and up engagement. I pulled the stock exhaust, one of the parts cars had a ebay setup so I added the headers and mid-pipe to the stock muffler section. I did replace the plugs with new NGK's with the proper .044 gap. The car runs a lot better, still need to pull check engine codes and try to figure out if its rings or valve seals that are bad. But anything over 4k it starts to smoke at WOT. I'm going to build a replacement engine on the side or buy built shortblock that's for sale near me. But I’m thinking about changing the valve seals after I do the compression test
 

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It's a HX with a D16y5 Vtec-E, yeah I'm still new to the Honda world so when I hear vtec I think of 4800 and up engagement. I pulled the stock exhaust, one of the parts cars had a ebay setup so I added the headers and mid-pipe to the stock muffler section. I did replace the plugs with new NGK's with the proper .044 gap. The car runs a lot better, still need to pull check engine codes and try to figure out if its rings or valve seals that are bad. But anything over 4k it starts to smoke at WOT. I'm going to build a replacement engine on the side or buy built shortblock that's for sale near me. But I’m thinking about changing the valve seals after I do the compression test
nice 1/4"gap .

check the guides to make sure within speck seals won't last worth a shit if not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's a HX with a D16y5 Vtec-E, yeah I'm still new to the Honda world so when I hear vtec I think of 4800 and up engagement. I pulled the stock exhaust, one of the parts cars had a ebay setup so I added the headers and mid-pipe to the stock muffler section. I did replace the plugs with new NGK's with the proper .044 gap. The car runs a lot better, still need to pull check engine codes and try to figure out if its rings or valve seals that are bad. But anything over 4k it starts to smoke at WOT. I'm going to build a replacement engine on the side or buy built shortblock that's for sale near me. But I’m thinking about changing the valve seals after I do the compression test
nice 1/4"gap .

check the guides to make sure within speck seals won't last worth a shit if not.
I’ll check that as well.

I’m attaching the picture of the plug that’s disconnected that I can’t figure out we’re it goes.

Also the exhaust that was in the car.
 

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that looks like the wiring for the intake air temp sensor.

on 96-00 civics, it is located in teh intake arm right after the throttlebody.

buy a new sensor at a partsstore, they are cheap. Even if you leave it hanging, the car will perform much happier once it knows what environment it is in.

EDIT, also, oil in the plugs, make sure it was from the chamber side, or the plug wire side. these cars like to shit plug tube seals, and cause misfires and other bullshit. do NOT use FAIL-pro felpro gaskets. Ive had enough of them go bad in less than a year to piss me off just hearing their name
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
that looks like the wiring for the intake air temp sensor.

on 96-00 civics, it is located in teh intake arm right after the throttlebody.

buy a new sensor at a partsstore, they are cheap. Even if you leave it hanging, the car will perform much happier once it knows what environment it is in.

EDIT, also, oil in the plugs, make sure it was from the chamber side, or the plug wire side. these cars like to shit plug tube seals, and cause misfires and other bullshit. do NOT use FAIL-pro felpro gaskets. Ive had enough of them go bad in less than a year to piss me off just hearing their name
What gasket brand should I use? I’m pretty sure it was chamber side because the top side of the plug was dry but I’ll double check it.
 
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