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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone.

On May 22nd I took my '93 Honda Civic del Sol Si with an NA built high-compression z6 to an open lapping session. An exhaust valve dropped resulting in the destruction of the combustion chamber #2 of the head and piston and cylinder #2 in the block. Prior to this it was making a healthy 158whp.

Here's the link to my post regarding this with a video:
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showcase/306513-day-music-died-video-when-i-blew-my-na-d16z6.html

I have a spare OBD2 JDM d15b block with a y8 head sitting in the garage for the last two years that I was thinking of dropping into the del Sol to get it back on the track. I was preparing the motor to get it ready to drop into the car but various frustrations led me to decide to pick look for a z6 or y8 instead. Amazingly, absolutely NONE of the local JDM motor dealers around here (Toronto, Canada) had any d-series motors. I even inquired about b-series swaps and there is nothing.

I was able to find a y8 on a local forum. The guy was selling it with an EF cable transmission, a new Exedy clutch and 8lbs flywheel. He said that the timing belt and water pump were replaced just before he pulled the motor. I picked it up, brought it home and so far everything seems to check out. I can turn the motor at the harmonic balancer. The clutch looks new as does the flywheel. The timing belt also looks new. I haven't pulled the bottom timing belt cover off yet to see the water pump.

I have the following parts to swap to it:
- Skunk2 IM
- 60mm B18 TB
- fuel rail with fuel pressure regulator
- 1320 4-1 header
- Competition Clutch 11.4lbs flywheel
- virtually new NGK wires

I have RDX injectors that I think I'll save for when I put the Rocket Motorsports stage-4 camshaft, valve springs, Ti retainers and AEM Tru-Time adjustable camshaft gear from the blown head into a spare z6 I have. I'll likely get this one ported and polished like the last but invest in NEW aftermarket valves.

I bought a new cap and rotor, plugs and y8 oil pump. I'm thinking of porting the oil pump and shimming it 0.030" to aid in increasing the oil flow. I've spun rod bearing #4 on two previous y8's because of the inferior design of the crankshaft and reduced oil flow compared with the z6. I plan to resume tracking my car and the sustained lateral G's and weaker oil pump could result in another swap job. I'll be doing an engine oil flush to clear out any gunk. I'll likely also run some Sea Foam into it as well.

Any suggestions on what I should consider doing to prep this motor and get it running well?

Thanks!
 

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total goofball
1994 Civic coupe EX
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if u build it, the #'s will come

I have a stock Y8 bolted to my 94 ex trans. and I have to say its a dog compared to my previous "stock" Z6
 

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"eyelet" the oil holes on everything

find the rushi all motor d15 build on onecamonly to see what I am talking about.

I would avoid shimming the oil pump UNLESS you actually have problems keep up oil pressure.

your bearing tolerances and oil choice should be on point before messing with the presure relief of the oil pump.

extra pressure does NOT always mean better, and extra pressure does NOT always mean extra flow.

EDIT shaping and porting the oil pump will help enough by itself. just check the oil pump tolerances to make sure they are in spect. EVEN IF BRAND NEW OEM even the best pumps get a spoiled egg in basket. The funny part is, honda's oem bad eggs are generally still worlds above the best of some aftermarket oem style parts
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
"eyelet" the oil holes on everything

find the rushi all motor d15 build on onecamonly to see what I am talking about.

I would avoid shimming the oil pump UNLESS you actually have problems keep up oil pressure.

your bearing tolerances and oil choice should be on point before messing with the presure relief of the oil pump.

extra pressure does NOT always mean better, and extra pressure does NOT always mean extra flow.

EDIT shaping and porting the oil pump will help enough by itself. just check the oil pump tolerances to make sure they are in spect. EVEN IF BRAND NEW OEM even the best pumps get a spoiled egg in basket. The funny part is, honda's oem bad eggs are generally still worlds above the best of some aftermarket oem style parts
Hey mattliston.

Thanks for the info. Regarding the oil pump, I found a facility that offers the port and polish service at a very reasonable price. Since I've never done it before and this is a service they offer (likely with plenty of experience) I'll be sending it there.

Since posting my original thread, I've been reading up on the y8 pump and the consensus seems to be that shimming is unnecessary unless there is an oil pressure issue. However, porting helps.

I haven't been on the onecamonly.com website in a while but from what I recall, the last time I tried there was a server error. I tried again just a few moments ago and there is still a server error. I can't even log in. I found another thread here on DSO from a few years back with a link to Rushi's OCO thread but still came up as server error.

I'll keep looking for exactly what it means to "eyelet" the oil holes.
 

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consider what a tradition "cartoony" volcanoe looks like, and that is what the hole would appear. you basically do a very light countersink and blend longwyas in direction of rotation.

eyelet might be an incorrect term. I for whatever reason see that word in my mind when I think of what I have seen in past. it might be wrong lol.

lemme see if I can grab some google images
 

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this is the closest I can find



looks like onecamonly isnt coming up in any google results. No idea if site is down, or if its DONE.
 

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another.

SMOOTH is best.

I have ZERO CLUE how far is necessary to achieve a result.

I do know, nothing with a 90degree edge flows as good as a curved or rounded edge. even a very slight round edge will help
 

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CHAMFERED!!!! that is the term. google away
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
CHAMFERED!!!! that is the term. google away
Thanks mattliston.

I'm going to consider doing that if/when I build the y8 over the winter.

I was reading that the z6 and y8 cranks are interchangeable with the z6 being of a superior design for lubrication. I had the z6 crank on my now-dead build services prior to building the bottom end. I think I'll consider using the z6 crank for the y8 block. If I get the y8 bottom end built (a very real possibility), I'll see if the shop can chamfer the oil holes.

I had ACL race bearing installed on the crank as well. I honestly believe that there must be less than 2000km on those parts. They must be interchangeable with the y8 rods. Of course I have to see if the crank has suffered any damage from flying pieces of metal...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Just did a search and confirmed that the rod bolts and rod nuts are the same. I had used ARP rod bolts and nuts on the z6 build. I can transfer those over.

The rod bearings are the same if the final 6 digits of the Honda OEM part numbers are PG6-003. The first 5 numbers are different depending on the colour (not sure what that actually means yet...). The alternative number is the XXXXX-P2F-A01.

Crankshafts are different part numbers but I did read an older post on DSO from Cervan (I believe) in which it was confirmed that the z6 and y8 crankshafts are the same. I hope that info hasn't changed since that thread!

EDIT: here's the link
http://www.d-series.org/forums/engi...-y8-crankshaft-differences-indifferences.html

The crankshaft bearing also have different numbers between the y8 and z6.

I ordered the y8 oil pan gasket, rear main seal, valve cover gasket and timing belt tensioner gaskets as well.

I just sent my brand new Honda OEM y8 oil pump out to be ported - professionally. I would give it a shot but I don't want to risk ruining it or inadvertently leaving any metal debris behind that would damage the bearings.
 

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The first 5 numbers are different depending on the colour (not sure what that actually means yet...). The alternative number is the XXXXX-P2F-A01.

You can/should not just slap in what ever standard size bearings you can find. You need to mic out all the clearances. As in measure your crank shaft journal sizes and main/rod bore size and find out the exact size bearings you need for proper clearance. Each different size oem bearing will be labeled with a different color. Depending on the bearing you need for each specific journal, you may need a different color bearing. You can also just go with what ever was already in there, if you can still make out the colors (they may or can be faded).

You can also look at the stamps on the crank/rods/block and use the table in the factory service manual to find out each specific bearing color. You may have to do each process, as my bearings all appeared brownish/blackish/orangish/redish/greenish, but my stampings all suggested green and black (or green and brown, I forget). So I still need to Mic everything out to ensure proper clearances.

Mic'ing all clearances is necessary to ensure long life and high rpm reliability. I always see people just slapping in new standard or race size bearings in a rebuild and then wondering why they spun a bearing a week later.

Other issues with bearing reliability are ensuring that your pump does not suffer cavitation (sucking up air) at high RPM's or high lateral loads. If I remember correctly this engine failed on a road course, with lots of high RPMs and turning, (not sure if you dropped a valve or spun a bearing etc...), but ensuring that your oil pick up is fully submerged in oil at all times is important.

Baffled/ deep oil pans (Moroso?) (custom trap door)
Windage Tray
Crank scraper
Are all things you should be looking into at this point.
 
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