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Which part of the axle broke.

Does shake down mean slicks, anti-lag launch.

Are the motor mounts and suspension components tight?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No slicks, motor mounts don’t seem to be as tight as they can be, it broke the joint closest to the transmission. This is a dirt track car, and I just got the chassis and seat squared away for shake downs which is just runs looking for broke shit
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also, once it broke I couldn’t drive at all, which is why I was wondering why I couldn’t still move on the driver side axle
 

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The right side isnt the drive side. Open diff means it spins the axle which has the least resistance, or in easy terms, least traction.


This is why you want to lightly use the brake when in low traction conditions, as it keeps the power somewhat even, especially in icy conditions
 

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I just checked out your showcase thread.

There's not alot of metal left on the car to keep everything from twisting in every direction, combined with a wheel bearing that could be seizing up...

I'd start with a wheel bearing and then some bracing.

Did it snap or did the axle pop out of the cup.
 

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Meat Popsicle
91 CRX Si
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There’s not a whole heck of a lot that can go wrong with CV axles.

I’m thinking that maybe one of the CV joints slipped apart. I’d start by jacking the car up and pushing/pulling on the hub/knuckle to see if there’s unusual movement.

Check the driver and passenger mounts to see if the engine is shifting left/right.

Of course a seized wheel bearing would cause a major issue but you’d probably notice if a wheel wasn’t spinning...and usually bearings don’t just lock up like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I got the axle out, I’ll put new wheel bearing and axle in when I get off work and try again. I’ll call these situations space shuttle disappointments...I check and double check and triple check and when it’s time for launch you’re thinking nothing can go wrong.......
 

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Do you have the old axle that gave up originally?

Compare sizes/lengths.

autozone and oreillys in past have given me axles that were for another chassis.


EF, EG, and EK all use different axle lengths, even if its under an inch difference in some cases.

Ive had an axle that was 1/8 inch shorter cause problems at stock ride height and occasionally pull out, but after lowering same vehicle, had far less incidents
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don’t have the other axle, it was a skinny hf axle though. I’ll have the electronics bay seller send out another shaft, and just do more testing before going balls out I guess
 

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Chinese parts are always questionable in the "metal" that they use.
You might consider buying a high quality axle, like Honda OEM or Raxles that will last much longer if it's more than just a dd.
 
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