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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is new to me.....So, basically the test goes like this. you connect a amp meter, preferably, because you really want be measuring amp instead of volts as acces. can be on that wont cause the battery to drain. disconnect the neg. terminal and let it sit for like deep, I guess. then connect the amp meter between the neg. cable terminal/conncetor and the neg. post. there should only be 50amp or less. If higher you pull fueses untill it lowers to 50 or less.
you found your faulty component.

ok, so my question is once you found the component/circuit would you just replacing everything corresponding to that circuit; actual circuit/component, relays, etc. in line with it???? as a blown fuse is caused by a wire grounding out. that's not the same thing and it wouldn't be a wiring issue right?

Anybody have an experience with sort of thing?
 

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yeah but i think its smaller than 50 amp!

Anyways, what did ya find to be causing the drain??

It's normally something turned on... Sometimes lil things like a switch like a interior dimmer switch shorting out internally causing drain etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I didn't check anything. As I'm going to be working on a friends car and have been doing research all day, pretty much. to try and figure out how exactly to go about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it's a 89 nissan, car. carbed. I think it's a sentra. lol yeah I don't exactly what car it is, but I figure it's a general problems as most things are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok, thanks that's what I was looking for/thinking. it has nothing to do with a short though does it? like a possible short in the circuitry that lowered theamps?
 
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