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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey D people. I'm back again with a problem. I just rebuilt my d16 again. honed, new rings, rod bearings, new valves, timing belt, new header. got it all back together and i'm getting the P0335 code. Its not revving past 3.5k and is kind of breaking up before that. Idle sounds fine. it does reek of gas when i rev it up. the cel pops up only when the car is running. (cel doesn't stay on when i turn the key to on) I do have a cheap scan tool to check codes and clear them but i just unplug the battery to reset the ecu.

The reason i rebuilt it (finally) is about a year ago i had a cold air intake on it and drove through a little puddle. the engine sputtered some and since then cylinder 1 was low ~60 psi. my dumbass kept driving it daily to work since it was my only vehicle. it smelled funny when i drove it hard-ish, my guess would be a bent/burnt valve but none of the valves looked too out of the ordinary. I have since then bought a 90 miata and have been dailying that while i work on the civic.

I've already replaced the sensor with one from autozone. didn't fix the problem. i also tried starting it with the sensor unplugged and it acted exactly the same. I dont have a multi meter atm so i cant test voltages at the sensor connector and ECU. I did however try another ecu and the problem persisted.

I've checked and re-timed the engine a few times to no avail. like i said i'm pretty sure the timing is fine (besides maybe ignition timing) since the idle sounds alright. I do need to do a valve adjustment still and set ignition timing. just been trying to get this problem squared away first. I also haven't done a compression test since the rebuild, which i should do. just ran out of time for today and so i'm looking to this forum for some help. something else to note: I did not have this problem prior to rebuilding.


something i noticed in the video, the oil light flashed a bit before the engine started but went off. also, battery light is on since i left the alt. belt off while testing. anyways, thanks for the help in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
okay so this is where i'm getting confused. i'm finding mixed information regarding these sensors. I've seen the sensor behind the crank pulley called the crank position sensor and the crank fluctuation sensor. I'm also aware there is a sensor in the dizzy that has a similar function. P0335 is for the CPS and there are 2 other codes i'm seeing come up in searches regarding these sensors P1337 and code 54. i replaced the sensor behind the crank pulley as i figured that is the Crank Position Sensor. I'm still relatively new to this and this mixed information is confusing. and the battey is charged. i just left it off in the video since i was constantly taking the crank pulley on and off. Thanks.
 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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start with the ckf ,check sensor resistance.
check signal ground power wires ,sensor unplugged.
and make sure wiring is ok to the ecu.
also connector pins could be pushed out..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yo thanks for the help. i didn't even check the dizzy. ended up being the blue wire on the harness side of the dizzy connector had come apart. fixed that and the car runs great now. Thanks for the help. I'd say for future reference the code P0335 has to do the with crank sensor that's in the distributor and not the crank sensor behind the crank pulley. Thanks again.
 
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