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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
That is not how it works.

There is no "code" for lack of coolant, or "pcv air leakage" in relation to coolant level. The PCV system doesnt give two flying fucks about coolant, considering it has nothing to do with coolant, period.

So I dont know how you know that is related.

"i dont be having enough time" Then dont work on the vehicle. Pay a shop if you cannot afford 5 minutes of your time.


Use the damn coolant bleeder that is right near where the upper rad hose goes. Literallly designed to bleed air out of the system.

Get the engine warmed up, crack it open, hit the throttle a few times, tighten down, let engine cool, top off with coolant, job done.

If you have trouble bleeding it, remove the thermostat, remove the brass air valve with pliers, make sure the hole is located to 12 o'clock, re-install, repeat bleeding process.
I have a 7th civic, not a 6th gen. I don’t have any bleeder screw as you mentioned. There are two sensors,1 at the upper radiator hose by the EGR valve and the other down below, no bleeder screw.
I have this issue before where I would get the same codes and took it to the dealership and they told me it’s the pcv valve need to be changed when I already changed it less than a week before I took it in to them. Took it to another shop and they can’t find any issues. So what are you talking about.
Every time I have to drain the coolant from this car that’s what happen when I put it back together. There are no vacuum leaks whatsoever, the pcv valve hose doesn’t have cracks, clams are on there tight enough. I remember late last year I was working on it and drained the coolant and got the same code, after bleeding the system the code went off and came back and I bleed it again and it went off again so if the code don’t have anything to do with air in the cooling system and pcv valve change twice, aftermarket and $20 dealership pcv valve and no vacuum leaks, then what it is?

and I didn’t state that there is code for low coolant either.
 

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2001 IS indeed a 7th gen civic dude.

The PCV valve is literally jsut a spring and ball valve that lets the engine ingest crankcase atmosphere (aka oil vapors) with vacuum.

Absolutely nothing to do with any sort of code.

Now, if that vacuum line is off the valve and causing a leak, you will have other issues.



as far as bleeding, I dug into it a little bit.

Seems it is not on 100% of civic d17 engines, much like the EGR valve system

I cannot find a bleeder on any of the EGR valve equipped civics. This is odd, as both my 2001 LX has a bleeder and no EGR valve, and my buddy's 2001 EX has no EGR valve, but I do not remember seeing a bleeder when we changed his radiator.

Use the coolant sensor on the upper rad hose connection to bleed. Unscrew until coolant dribbles out when the engine is hot. Re-tighten after it is solid coolant flow with no bubbles.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Clean your iacv with carb cleaner, clean it again, then clean the passages, install a new gasket, LIGHTLY coat the blade and shaft in air tool oil, reinstall valve, then bleed your cooling system throughly with a burp funnel that fits tight in the rad neck, simply run it until fans cycle on and off 3 times, add coolant to the funnel as it cools to keep it above rad neck level. my wifes is missing the bleed screw from the factory as well, but the reason low coolant causes this code is a sticky iacv that needs a through cleaning, CARB cleaner, NOT brake cleaner. Might as well clean your tb and associated passages and vacuum ports while you are at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Clean your iacv with carb cleaner, clean it again, then clean the passages, install a new gasket, LIGHTLY coat the blade and shaft in air tool oil, reinstall valve, then bleed your cooling system throughly with a burp funnel that fits tight in the rad neck, simply run it until fans cycle on and off 3 times, add coolant to the funnel as it cools to keep it above rad neck level. my wifes is missing the bleed screw from the factory as well, but the reason low coolant causes this code is a sticky iacv that needs a through cleaning, CARB cleaner, NOT brake cleaner. Might as well clean your tb and associated passages and vacuum ports while you are at it.
Ok i understand all of what you are saying.
My IACV is, throttle body also clean. I might, i bled the cooling system with a orange spill free funnel about 4 times. I just drove about a mile from work and cracked the coolant temp sensor above the thermostat and reve the car up a few times, tightened back the sensor and put on the spill free funnel,add coolant, turn on the heat all the way with the fan off, reve the car and hold it at a steady rpm, when the fan comes on afterwards, i kept squeezing the bottom radiator hose, then i stopped squeezing it and let it idle and while i was watching it i didn't see any bubbles comes up in the funnel. I turned off the car, disconnect the battery terminals and let it sit for a few, reconnected it and start the car and let it idle for 15min.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
2001 IS indeed a 7th gen civic dude.

The PCV valve is literally jsut a spring and ball valve that lets the engine ingest crankcase atmosphere (aka oil vapors) with vacuum.

Absolutely nothing to do with any sort of code.

Now, if that vacuum line is off the valve and causing a leak, you will have other issues.



as far as bleeding, I dug into it a little bit.

Seems it is not on 100% of civic d17 engines, much like the EGR valve system

I cannot find a bleeder on any of the EGR valve equipped civics. This is odd, as both my 2001 LX has a bleeder and no EGR valve, and my buddy's 2001 EX has no EGR valve, but I do not remember seeing a bleeder when we changed his radiator.

Use the coolant sensor on the upper rad hose connection to bleed. Unscrew until coolant dribbles out when the engine is hot. Re-tighten after it is

solid coolant flow with no bubbles.
Yea, I crack the sensor and reve the gas a few times.
Mine is a2002 with vtec and EGR
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Yea, I crack the sensor and reve the gas a few times.
Mine is a2002 with vtec and EGR
I think I found the problem that giving me the code.
I was doing another coolant bleeding just a few minutes ago and I cracked the top coolant temp sensor to get air out, after I’m done , I was washing off the coolant that spilled with water, when I pore the water by the sensor in the pic below, I noticed the engine starts to shake harder, I turn it off and give a few minutes, get my throttle body cleaner and spray by the sensor area, right in the area where my finger pointing, I could see that there’s a different after I sprayed it. I sprayed it heavier and the car shut off. I thought it was by the corner of the valve cover where you normally put the silicone to sop the oil from coming through but I sprayed more by the camshaft plug and It shut off again. I will need to to move it and put Honda bond around the cap on the inside. I will post a reply.
 

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You say you're pouring water in that area and the engine is stumbling, check the EGR valve gasket for rips, tears or chunks missing. If its sucking air in from there, it's going to pull water in there too.

Your spraying throttle body cleaner in a controversial area.

You are shooting TB cleaner near critical seal points that could all react to throttle body cleaner if any of them are leaking/pulling air.

1. The EGR valve is right there. Are you sure the valve gasket is in good shape? I've seen these tear or be missing a chunk of graphite, and it sucks air. Check the gasket, and replace if in doubt.

2. The air box is right there. If your spraying in a direction that allows the throttle body vapors to be drawn into the air box, you might be seeing engine reaction to the vapor, but mistaking that for a vacuum leak of some kind.

3. The intake manifold gasket flange corner is right behind the EGR valve from this picture. If your intake manifold gasket is ripped, torn, or you didn't clean the flange surfaces all the way and the intake isn't pressing the new gasket all the way flat when tightened down, then you could be sucking air in there.

4. The injector seats aren't too far away from where you're spraying. If the injectot gasket or oring isn't seated properly, you'll have a vac leak there.

Without having lots of experience hunting vacuum leaks with TB or brake clean, spraying stuff in that area could indicate many false positives if your not sure of what to look for.

Usually when experienced guys reach a point of uncertainty with brake clean or TB cleaner, that's when the smoke machine comes out. My favorite is the Redline, the OTC nitrogen machine a close second. But such machines are usually cost prohibitive to most backyard mechanics.

If you can't find the leak source, seriously consider bringing this thing in to a professional shop. If there is a leak and the tech is good, he'll find it in about 10 mins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
You say you're pouring water in that area and the engine is stumbling, check the EGR valve gasket for rips, tears or chunks missing. If its sucking air in from there, it's going to pull water in there too.

Your spraying throttle body cleaner in a controversial area.

You are shooting TB cleaner near critical seal points that could all react to throttle body cleaner if any of them are leaking/pulling air.

1. The EGR valve is right there. Are you sure the valve gasket is in good shape? I've seen these tear or be missing a chunk of graphite, and it sucks air. Check the gasket, and replace if in doubt.

2. The air box is right there. If your spraying in a direction that allows the throttle body vapors to be drawn into the air box, you might be seeing engine reaction to the vapor, but mistaking that for a vacuum leak of some kind.

3. The intake manifold gasket flange corner is right behind the EGR valve from this picture. If your intake manifold gasket is ripped, torn, or you didn't clean the flange surfaces all the way and the intake isn't pressing the new gasket all the way flat when tightened down, then you could be sucking air in there.

4. The injector seats aren't too far away from where you're spraying. If the injectot gasket or oring isn't seated properly, you'll have a vac leak there.

Without having lots of experience hunting vacuum leaks with TB or brake clean, spraying stuff in that area could indicate many false positives if your not sure of what to look for.

Usually when experienced guys reach a point of uncertainty with brake clean or TB cleaner, that's when the smoke machine comes out. My favorite is the Redline, the OTC nitrogen machine a close second. But such machines are usually cost prohibitive to most backyard mechanics.

If you can't find the leak source, seriously consider bringing this thing in to a professional shop. If there is a leak and the tech is good, he'll find it in about 10 mins.
So, i just got home from work and move the EGR valve and inspected the bottom of it and i could see water at center portion of it. I cleaned it and remove the cam plug and put honda bond,start the engine and spray more throttle body cleaner and i didn't difference with any vibration coming from the engine. Problem maby solve.
I will keep an eye on it.
 

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I just changed my engine on my 7th gen civic D17A2, I’m getting the code p01491 for EGR valve I know the EGR valve is cleaned because it’s the one from my other head and it was running fine. The passage on the intake manifolds also is clean because I took all those off and look at them before putting them back.
So what now could cause this code.?
there was a small hole the size of a pencil that I was cleaning out but I didn’t do much cleaning to it.
Any ideas ?
Never before?
 
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