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93 Civic HB SI, 95 Civic HB CX
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My wifes bone stock 2003 lx blows 107 ppm hc and 680ppm NOx and its on the low side of average for the gas limits, gets 26 mpg in California traffic, 10 sec 0-60 with ac on. now compare to my z6 eg, 91 ppm HC, 438 ppm NOx, 36 mpg combined and though untested i can guarantee it beats the 0-60 with ac on time, still have to fix the ac and we will find out. Just seems like a step backwards to me. Don't get me wrong, its a perfectly ok little car and has a heart of gold, my 5 foot nothing wife loves it. but as far a build... meh. OK thread jacking over, sorry.
Damn! Thanks for the modern small engine NOx comparisons lol.

Not sure if that is tested loaded steady state or not, or is rolling averages under real world operating conditions, but modern tractor trailers, 13-15L displacement diesel engines, fully loaded with full tanks of fuel, roughly 225 gallons, pulling 80k lbs under steady cruise at 75mph on the highway, slight incline, with a properly functioning SCR system barely touch the 200ppm range lmao.

Under a zero incline flat roll, 75mph cruise, fully loaded, they emit less than 50ppm on average.

Modern aftertreatment is amazing, a true rolling science experiment :)

Edit: I should mention these are readings with onboard NOx sensors, loaded dyno with a sniffer in the pipe might differ...
 

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My wifes bone stock 2003 lx blows 107 ppm hc and 680ppm NOx and its on the low side of average for the gas limits, gets 26 mpg in California traffic, 10 sec 0-60 with ac on. now compare to my z6 eg, 91 ppm HC, 438 ppm NOx, 36 mpg combined and though untested i can guarantee it beats the 0-60 with ac on time, still have to fix the ac and we will find out. Just seems like a step backwards to me. Don't get me wrong, its a perfectly ok little car and has a heart of gold, my 5 foot nothing wife loves it. but as far a build... meh. OK thread jacking over, sorry.
You do realize the 7th gens are heavier, right?

You can add performance to an engine and still be slower.

EDIT a good running auto D17 dx/lx should be getting close to 40mpg on the hgihway and around 30mpg in the city, depending on how traffic is. 26mpg in stop and go california shit-hole traffic means the improvements are giving results.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Its a loaded dyno pull meant to simulate an 8% grade now at 12 and 25 mph, CA actually had to stop testing the tail pipe emissions on obd2 vehicles cause few of them would pass their first (5yr) test without tons of work. Kinda ironic i think as they are supposed to burn cleaner. My point was honda could have done much better with the tech that they had available at the time (but of course every manufacturer could have).
 

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93 Civic HB SI, 95 Civic HB CX
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I just went ahead and changed head gasket and and switched over my old head on this block I’m using now.
Did you take the head to the machine shop to get it milled back flat?

The whole reason the HG blows is because the head warps after one too many overheats. You can't see this warpage without the right tools.

So if you just slapped in a new gasket and torqued the head back down, it's probably gonna blow again.

Also, didn't you have valvetrain issues on your old engine? Why would you swap over potential issues?
 

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'93 / '95 Del Sol Si - '95 DX Coupe - '98 Civic Hatch - '00 Accord EX F23 Manual
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Fill the crap out of your cooling system...bleed it the best as you can without starting the car. Keep squeezing the hoses. Keep filling. Get it filled up as best as you can.

Keep the radiator cap off and the hood open. Stare in the direction of your radiator cap through the slit between your open hood and your engine.

Start the car. If what I believe is wrong with your car is fact, coolant should shoot up from the radiator at least 6-8". I had an old '94 Celica GT once that would shoot it three feet. It was an awesome spectacle.

If that is the case, just shut off the car and remove the head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Fill the crap out of your cooling system...bleed it the best as you can without starting the car. Keep squeezing the hoses. Keep filling. Get it filled up as best as you can.

Keep the radiator cap off and the hood open. Stare in the direction of your radiator cap through the slit between your open hood and your engine.

Start the car. If what I believe is wrong with your car is fact, coolant should shoot up from the radiator at least 6-8". I had an old '94 Celica GT once that would shoot it three feet. It was an awesome spectacle.

If that is the case, just shut off the car and remove the head.
I already changed my head bro. It’s good now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Right on. Was it actually the head? Or another issue?
Well, since I changed it I haven’t have any issues. Only code showing pcv valve air leakage and for that code I know it’s air in the coolant system because i got that code whenever i drained the coolant. It give me hell to get the air out of it . Sometimes a week or so because I don’t be having enough time to spend to get the air out..
 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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Well, since I changed it I haven’t have any issues. Only code showing pcv valve air leakage and for that code I know it’s air in the coolant system because i got that code whenever i drained the coolant. It give me hell to get the air out of it . Sometimes a week or so because I don’t be having enough time to spend to get the air out..
jack the car way up in the air on the radiator cap side of the car to help get air out of the cooling system .
 

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Well, since I changed it I haven’t have any issues. Only code showing pcv valve air leakage and for that code I know it’s air in the coolant system because i got that code whenever i drained the coolant. It give me hell to get the air out of it . Sometimes a week or so because I don’t be having enough time to spend to get the air out..
That is not how it works.

There is no "code" for lack of coolant, or "pcv air leakage" in relation to coolant level. The PCV system doesnt give two flying fucks about coolant, considering it has nothing to do with coolant, period.

So I dont know how you know that is related.

"i dont be having enough time" Then dont work on the vehicle. Pay a shop if you cannot afford 5 minutes of your time.


Use the damn coolant bleeder that is right near where the upper rad hose goes. Literallly designed to bleed air out of the system.

Get the engine warmed up, crack it open, hit the throttle a few times, tighten down, let engine cool, top off with coolant, job done.

If you have trouble bleeding it, remove the thermostat, remove the brass air valve with pliers, make sure the hole is located to 12 o'clock, re-install, repeat bleeding process.
 
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