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Discussion Starter #1
ok so long story.. blew the headgasket, replaced it, everything worked fine, but steady coolant leak, turns out to be the waterpump, replaced that, the thermostat, timing belt and tensioner.
refilled the coolant, left the cap off, ran it ten mins to get the bubbles out with the heater on full, stopped the car, waited to cool down, topped the coolant.
took her out for a 30 min drive, the temp gauge goes up to midway (like normal)
when i got home, went to check everything, overflow bottle has quite a bit of coolant flowing into it, the fan is not turning on (though does work when i jump it), the top hose is SEARING hot and the bottom hose totally cool.
fuses are fine, connections seem fine, ECU throwing no codes, oil is clear, coolant is clear, no abnormal smells coming out of the exhaust
so maybe i'm being panaroid, but this doesn't seem normal
anyone have any ideas? I'm thinking temp sensor, but thought there would be a code thrown? how do i test it?

thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #3
errr and that is located where? quick answer! you're damn helpful on this site trans

this just goes to show that a day and a half of scratching my head coulda been solved in an instant by someone with experience
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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errr and that is located where? quick answer! you're damn helpful on this site trans

this just goes to show that a day and a half of scratching my head coulda been solved in an instant by someone with experience
Yeah but it's good you noodled it out on your own first.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well i'd like to eventually be able to troubleshoot better. so i don't go down the wrong road (like this) as often

so why wouldn't the car overheat? solely because i was driving and air was pushing through the rad? wouldn't it overheat during my idle and troubleshoot time?
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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well i'd like to eventually be able to troubleshoot better. so i don't go down the wrong road (like this) as often

so why wouldn't the car overheat? solely because i was driving and air was pushing through the rad? wouldn't it overheat during my idle and troubleshoot time?

Dude I'm going through a similar ordeal. Check my thread in gen tech.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i've actually been reading yours/keeping up to date with it for a while.. but i have little advice to give so i just read.
fan switch is the 2 prong fitting on the back of the block right?
 

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well i'd like to eventually be able to troubleshoot better. so i don't go down the wrong road (like this) as often

so why wouldn't the car overheat? solely because i was driving and air was pushing through the rad? wouldn't it overheat during my idle and troubleshoot time?
I fist fucked my b2000 truck ages ago when I found out I had a hole in the radiator, didn't know it cause i was parked in a stall at work with a drainage area, overheated on the way home. Got a new radiator for it, hooked everything back up, blew the headgasket (and the head warped for the DVDA victory it just needed to have) the next week cause either I forgot to hook the fan switch up or it decided at the sametime to die on me (prolly me fucking the dog on that one). It was not overheating cause I did mostly freeway driving, but the day it blew I was stuck in stop and go for over and hour and I just happened to look down at the temp gauge and it was all the way up, limped it to work and it promptly died in the parking lot with steam free flowing out of the hood =D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
wow.. crappy dude!! guess we all have the horror stories!
i'm going to try the fan switch tonight, see if i can't get this bugger all happy again!
 

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okay I get the fan switch part but shouldn't he check that new thermostat out too if the bottom hose is cold?
 

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yup check the thermostat for sure, main reason the lower hose would be cold would be the thermostat. and no the car wouldn't overheat just cause you were idling. my car because of my blown HG right now burns coolant so every now and then i get low. car never overheats when it is low, just he temp gauge goes up when i slow down and take a right hand turn (my thought behind this is that all the coolant goes to one side of the rad and does not flow into the block like it normally does when i am going straight) once i notice the car doing that i add some water and i start the whole thing again.

even when i am low on coolant at idle the car doesn't overheat
 

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Discussion Starter #12
*sigh* well i've ordered a new fan switch, but it won't arrive till i'm away for a week.. so this is gonna have to hang around till next week.. i'll test the thermostat properly at the same time.. yes i know i should have before I put it in, but i thought the new t-stat would be tested from factory, no?
i hate coolant issues :(
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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*sigh* well i've ordered a new fan switch, but it won't arrive till i'm away for a week.. so this is gonna have to hang around till next week.. i'll test the thermostat properly at the same time.. yes i know i should have before I put it in, but i thought the new t-stat would be tested from factory, no?
i hate coolant issues :(
Hope you get it figured out bro. Troubleshooting this shit can be a bitch!
 

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Mindless and I got off easy we both anly needed new rad caps... I did hawever buy a 100 dual core from RS Machines just in case LOL. It came today, YEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!
 

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"Wild Bush Appeared!"
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I used to freak out about this too until I found out it was normal. The "top hose" is going to be hot because its shoving hot ass coolant back into the radiator to cool it down whilst cooler coolant is being shoved back into the engine by the bottom hose.
 

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I used to freak out about this too until I found out it was normal. The "top hose" is going to be hot because its shoving hot ass coolant back into the radiator to cool it down whilst cooler coolant is being shoved back into the engine by the bottom hose.
not really, they should both be warm...
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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Yeah, check ur t/stat. Make sure it's not installed upside down - u'd be surprised how that could easily happen. It doesn't matter where u get parts from, they can fail. Get a pot of water, a thermometer, and ur t/stat. See if ur t/stat opens
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OK..
been working on this.. the t-stat is fine, and is/was installed correctly,
working fan switch is in
all fluids seems clear
Timing is fine

took it for a drive.. temp went super high and I turned off the car.. was afraid of it blowing again.
now i can't drive it more than a klick or 2 before the temp starts getting too high.
Exhaust is clear, no oil or coolant burning
at idle the car sounds perfect
coolant comes out the overflow
and I'm now getting a code 16 (injectors)
my heater blows cold when the car is not moving but is super warm once it's moving (it'll stop blowing hot if i come to a stop)

Does this mean a blockage somewhere? any ideas why the injectors are now throwing a code?
 
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