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Discussion Starter #1
okay this has been an ongoing problem for a while now. ive checked everything. (literally) replaced the temp sensor, the coolant temp sensor, the fan switch, the thermostat, flushed the radiatior, and everything runs well. however, my temp gauge on my dash tells a different story, at idle it climbs to where it should, right near the middle. and until i hit 40mph tells the truth. once i go above 40 though, thats when all hell breaks loose. the temp needle climbs WAY past H and will fluctuate at its own desgression. untill i slow to about 35 when it drops back into the proper range. what the hell? i know its telling me lies because if it truely was that hot, id be boiling over as well as already warped my head. could it be the cluster itself? im aware that there was some band aid type work done to it in the past, since when i got it, i found a "vampire" tap being used to ground out the fan switch so that the fan was at constant on because the previous owner was too cheap to spend the 25 bucks to replace the fan switch. so, does anyone have any ideas as to what could be left to be the cause of an incorrrect temp reading? the only other thing thats "wrong" is that i dont have my secondary o2 sensor hooked up becasue i cant get an extra bung welded in. could it be that my cars running lean due to the improper o2 readings? im out of ideas... thanks guys.
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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I think you answered your own question; swap the cluster out.
 

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1988 Honda Civic DX
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Have you done any datalogging to see exactly what temp your motor is at? My gauge will go up and down if the ECT gets above 200* F degrees. My buddies CRX will do the same thing as well around 200* F
 

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The gauge is not feed of the ect sensor (2 wire) it has a one wire sensor all on its own. What did you replace? At least I think what year?
 

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pretty sure the year doesnt matter. the sensor itself is pretty simple. the EH3 i had was running one from a Y7.
I know the b7s and z6 have them. And I think the a6 too. So that covers obd0 obd1 and obd2. I think the d17a1/2s are different thy get there info from the ecu.

So as long as its not a 2001+
 

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1990 civic 4 door LX
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I had a similar problem in my ef. It would follow a more linear curve though when it would fluctuate.. it ended up being a tear in the screen on the back of the cluster...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
i may have isolated the issue. looking over my rad i pulled the cap off and noticed a load of silt gunked up on my rad cap. (not good) and while pushing on it i noticed some lil bubbles comming from under the sticker on it.(again, not good) upon further inspection i noiced all this silt gunked on my cooling fins inside the rad itself.(thats bad as well) so tomm im gonna flush out the rad and get a new rad cap... ill let you guys know what happens. thanks for all your input too.
 

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radiator is fan is weak,take a big fan and blow it strait at the radiator to see if the temp go down.

thats how i found out my condenser fan was weak.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i noticed when i rev it the temp drop back down... i've deduced that there is some sediment still floating around in there. one more flush, and a 60/40 mix should finally get r done. if not, a new rad and fan will need to be ordered i guess. its such a shame too that this car has so many problems. the car itself is damn near perfect even though the interior needs a little love. but engine and tranny issues galore. f*ck my life.
 
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