[Scoop2192]

Hello Honda friends,

Iam looking to build a d16y7 vitara with forced induction.
Engine got 90k miles on it.
Ive heard many go with 75.5 pistons. But some say you should not bore your engine if you go forced induction.
Anyone here that can help me decide what kit/rods to go with??

 

[transzex]

goals?

 

[Scoop2192]

goals?

Not sure what to expect with just vitara build
But im thinking of 280??

Thinking of this kit YCP 75mm Vitara Full Kit Teflon Coated LowCom Pistons Civic D16Y7 Y8 Turbo 96-00 | eBay

 

[dfb399]

You really need to set a Horsepower goal before considering a next step.
Also consider, what is the car going to be used for?
^The answer to this question will determine where you want your powerband.

Regarding the kit in your link; it does not include rods (unless I missed something).

Also keep in mind, you don't have to be dead-set on having a Low compression motor for boost.
Obviously, you don't (probably) want any part of building an 11:1+ compression, Turbo engine.
But, dropping the CR to 8:1 is absolutely unnecessary.
You see it all the time, and why I do not understand.
I know, Vitara combos are cheap/affordable, but if it doesn't net you a desired engine set up, whats the point?
Maybe in 2008, when we were all using FMUs and FPRs to 'Tune', but modern tuning has come a long way, and honestly replaces a lot of that early logic that has so 'stuck' to Honda builds.

Something between 9 and 10:1, will give you plenty of room to tune and keep things safe, as well as being able to use Fuel available at every gas station.
Added bonus, if you ever find yourself running the engine in N/A form, it will not be a complete dog/slower than a Stock, rebuilt D-series.

As far as 'Over boring' being looked down on, I can't say I've heard of it (maybe on some B series blocks, planning to be used for boost, but again, different engine).
FWIW, My D16Y7 is at 75.5mm, 10.2:1 compression, and 30k miles.
No boost (yet), but no issues either from the set up.
When having the Block machined during your rebuild, you will more than likely find the cylinders out of round, forcing you to go Oversized @ 75.5-76.0mm

 

[Scoop2192]

Ill probably go with eagle rods, stock length. And if im correct it doenst really matter what pistons i get, there is no harm in going low comp and no harmin going into the 8/9:1 ratio

And power goal will be around 300, just for daily driving and some long vacation trips

 

[dfb399]

Ill probably go with eagle rods, stock length. And if im correct it doenst really matter what pistons i get, there is no harm in going low comp and no harmin going into the 8/9:1 ratio

No harm, sure, but you are leaving usable (regardless of the car's use), free power, on the table.
Which, when the point is to build it for more Power anyway, why wouldn't you come at least into the 9's?

Eagle makes great products.
Can’t comment on the amount of Block notching you may or may not need, but:
I am running SCAT H-beams (Stock length), and they needed a LOT of notching.

 

[slo_eg8]

if you bore them, get the 75.5 pistons and take them to a machine shop with the engine and tell them what you want your p2w gap to be and then it will be machined to the pistons and not just 75.5 and hope theyre close

 

[Scoop2192]

You really need to set a Horsepower goal before considering a next step.
Also consider, what is the car going to be used for?
^The answer to this question will determine where you want your powerband.

Regarding the kit in your link; it does not include rods (unless I missed something).

Also keep in mind, you don't have to be dead-set on having a Low compression motor for boost.
Obviously, you don't (probably) want any part of building an 11:1+ compression, Turbo engine.
But, dropping the CR to 8:1 is absolutely unnecessary.
You see it all the time, and why I do not understand.
I know, Vitara combos are cheap/affordable, but if it doesn't net you a desired engine set up, whats the point?
Maybe in 2008, when we were all using FMUs and FPRs to 'Tune', but modern tuning has come a long way, and honestly replaces a lot of that early logic that has so 'stuck' to Honda builds.

Something between 9 and 10:1, will give you plenty of room to tune and keep things safe, as well as being able to use Fuel available at every gas station.
Added bonus, if you ever find yourself running the engine in N/A form, it will not be a complete dog/slower than a Stock, rebuilt D-series.

As far as 'Over boring' being looked down on, I can't say I've heard of it (maybe on some B series blocks, planning to be used for boost, but again, different engine).
FWIW, My D16Y7 is at 75.5mm, 10.2:1 compression, and 30k miles.
No boost (yet), but no issues either from the set up.
When having the Block machined during your rebuild, you will more than likely find the cylinders out of round, forcing you to go Oversized @ 75.5-76.0mm

Do you have any idea what the compression rate is with ycp hbeam pistons and eagle rods STN lenght. Im sturggeling to find a good combo with turbo setup

 

[dfb399]

Do you have any idea what the compression rate is with ycp hbeam pistons and eagle rods STN lenght. Im sturggeling to find a good combo with turbo setup

Use this calculator:

D-Series Compression Calculator

D-Series Compression Calculator by Zealautowerks.

www.zealautowerks.com

-Use a Stock rod selection, so long as whatever Rod you choose is Stock length.
-Vitara is listed under the piston selection.

Putting my spoon away now..

 

[Scoop2192]

Use this calculator:

D-Series Compression Calculator

D-Series Compression Calculator by Zealautowerks.

www.zealautowerks.com

-Use a Stock rod selection, so long as whatever Rod you choose is Stock length.
-Vitara is listed under the piston selection.

Putting my spoon away now..

So no 138.6mm rod for a little extra compresssion?? In my understanding.. vitara pistons lower the compresion, with standard length rods compression wil be around 7.4:1 that is too low. Longer rods will bump this to around 8.5:1

 

[Georgia Eg]

Are you serious? I think it's time for a little Birdy to fly free and try the search feature the internet provides.

 

[Scoop2192]

Are you serious? I think it's time for a little Birdy to fly free and try the search feature the internet provides.

You could just awnser??? You think i havent searched?? I just come here for people with experiece. Yes i am new

 

[Georgia Eg]

The answer has been given to you, so I'll streamline it for you.
Your usage of the vehicle, wether it will be a daily driver or track car determines the build. You want to have a full power band for a daily, not reaching usable power until 4-5k RPM for daily.
Your compression ratio before boost helps with this.
You will need a tuning solution, by the postings of yours I'd say Hondata and have a tuner with a Dyno to get you setup.
Use Zealautowerks.com calculator to determine the baseline compression.
Stock rod length with Vitara pistons will be very low compression, unless you shave the block and head (-.090), D16 block use a D16Y7 head, and thin (.035) metal gasket, that would be about 8.8/1 ratio with a .023 piston to deck height. Then, which crankshaft? Do you have an A6/ZC Duel oil hole crank?
Considering that the info is already in this thread, and you said stock rod length, then asked about the custom length ones, you probably should find a shop that builds engines, tell them your horsepower goal and get the price of it from them, I can tell you that parts only for this is gonna be in the $3-5k range, plus labor.
Aside from all of that, what is your brake and suspension setup? Are all of your bushings good? What transmission are you using, how about the tires?
Everyone wants the horsepower, but until you're setup to put it down in a controlled way, you're simply paying a lot of money for disappointment or killing yourself and possibly others with a 2400 pound car.
Does this help you understand better, or did I miss anything?
For context I bought my car stock, automatic. I knew I would add power so I've - Converted to a S20-B000 short ratio trans, Manual steering, full coilovers , front traction bars, Moates Demon2 added to a chipped ECU, bought all of the turbo parts for the bolt on portion, and am now getting to the engine. This is an expensive process and if you can't do it correctly, you would be better to just do a rebuild and drop it in, and enjoy your car. It also helps to have a spare vehicle.

 

[Scoop2192]

The answer has been given to you, so I'll streamline it for you.
Your usage of the vehicle, wether it will be a daily driver or track car determines the build. You want to have a full power band for a daily, not reaching usable power until 4-5k RPM for daily.
Your compression ratio before boost helps with this.
You will need a tuning solution, by the postings of yours I'd say Hondata and have a tuner with a Dyno to get you setup.
Use Zealautowerks.com calculator to determine the baseline compression.
Stock rod length with Vitara pistons will be very low compression, unless you shave the block and head (-.090), D16 block use a D16Y7 head, and thin (.035) metal gasket, that would be about 8.8/1 ratio with a .023 piston to deck height. Then, which crankshaft? Do you have an A6/ZC Duel oil hole crank?
Considering that the info is already in this thread, and you said stock rod length, then asked about the custom length ones, you probably should find a shop that builds engines, tell them your horsepower goal and get the price of it from them, I can tell you that parts only for this is gonna be in the $3-5k range, plus labor.
Aside from all of that, what is your brake and suspension setup? Are all of your bushings good? What transmission are you using, how about the tires?
Everyone wants the horsepower, but until you're setup to put it down in a controlled way, you're simply paying a lot of money for disappointment or killing yourself and possibly others with a 2400 pound car.
Does this help you understand better, or did I miss anything?
For context I bought my car stock, automatic. I knew I would add power so I've - Converted to a S20-B000 short ratio trans, Manual steering, full coilovers , front traction bars, Moates Demon2 added to a chipped ECU, bought all of the turbo parts for the bolt on portion, and am now getting to the engine. This is an expensive process and if you can't do it correctly, you would be better to just do a rebuild and drop it in, and enjoy your car. It also helps to have a spare vehicle.

Ive got an adress for building, but doenst longer rods solve the low compression? Also im going stage 2 clutch. And got my suspension and brakes upgraded

 

[slo_eg8]

just get fjt custom length rods if you can find them. if not, buy some cp/wiseco pistons

Wiseco Acura/Honda D16Z6, D16Y7 1992+ Civic SOHC Complete Piston Set

cheap.
fast.
reliable.


pick two

 

[Oldcivicjoe]

The answer has been given to you, so I'll streamline it for you.
Your usage of the vehicle, wether it will be a daily driver or track car determines the build. You want to have a full power band for a daily, not reaching usable power until 4-5k RPM for daily.
Your compression ratio before boost helps with this.
You will need a tuning solution, by the postings of yours I'd say Hondata and have a tuner with a Dyno to get you setup.
Use Zealautowerks.com calculator to determine the baseline compression.
Stock rod length with Vitara pistons will be very low compression, unless you shave the block and head (-.090), D16 block use a D16Y7 head, and thin (.035) metal gasket, that would be about 8.8/1 ratio with a .023 piston to deck height. Then, which crankshaft? Do you have an A6/ZC Duel oil hole crank?
Considering that the info is already in this thread, and you said stock rod length, then asked about the custom length ones, you probably should find a shop that builds engines, tell them your horsepower goal and get the price of it from them, I can tell you that parts only for this is gonna be in the $3-5k range, plus labor.
Aside from all of that, what is your brake and suspension setup? Are all of your bushings good? What transmission are you using, how about the tires?
Everyone wants the horsepower, but until you're setup to put it down in a controlled way, you're simply paying a lot of money for disappointment or killing yourself and possibly others with a 2400 pound car.
Does this help you understand better, or did I miss anything?
For context I bought my car stock, automatic. I knew I would add power so I've - Converted to a S20-B000 short ratio trans, Manual steering, full coilovers , front traction bars, Moates Demon2 added to a chipped ECU, bought all of the turbo parts for the bolt on portion, and am now getting to the engine. This is an expensive process and if you can't do it correctly, you would be better to just do a rebuild and drop it in, and enjoy your car. It also helps to have a spare vehicle.

Your first rant😍 I love it!

 

[Scoop2192]

just get fjt custom length rods if you can find them. if not, buy some cp/wiseco pistons

Wiseco Acura/Honda D16Z6, D16Y7 1992+ Civic SOHC Complete Piston Set

cheap.
fast.
reliable.


pick two

Thanks Slo, but i cant seems to find any FJT rods. Iam looking at p2p0 custom length rods atm. To pair with ycp 75.5mm pistons.

This one to be clear

YCP 75.5mm D16 Vitara Pistons NPR Rings Custom Length Rods ACL Race Bearing | eBay

YCP 75.5mm D16 Vitara Pistons NPR Rings Custom Length Rods ACL Race Bearing | eBay Motors, Parts & Accessories, Car & Truck Parts & Accessories | eBay!

www.ebay.nl

 

[Georgia Eg]

Might need to look somewhere besides eBay...

 

[drtalon123]

Thanks Slo, but i cant seems to find any FJT rods. Iam looking at p2p0 custom length rods atm. To pair with ycp 75.5mm pistons.

This one to be clear

YCP 75.5mm D16 Vitara Pistons NPR Rings Custom Length Rods ACL Race Bearing | eBay

YCP 75.5mm D16 Vitara Pistons NPR Rings Custom Length Rods ACL Race Bearing | eBay Motors, Parts & Accessories, Car & Truck Parts & Accessories | eBay!

www.ebay.nl

I'm running the P2P0 custom length rods, had vitaras at one point and cracked a ringland, now running wiseco D17 pistons.

When you get them, they need to be balanced/shaved. They're solid I beam chunks of steel, and they're not perfect, but they have lots of excess ready to trim.

 

[dfb399]

Regarding ACL bearings:
Call up ACL and talk to them about which bearing they offer, is best for you.
They have a few/several different bearing materials, that should be chosen based on the application you are building the engine for.
Furtherly, before you contact them, know what Main/Rod clearance values you desire.
Research will teach which Clearance(s) are appropiate for your build (i.e. Endurance Racing, Drag, a Robust daily, etc..).

After this, You should have chosen an ACL part number for your build.
At this point, is the only time I would look at other vendors for that specific part number.
But even still, I just ended up buying them from ACL (even the same phone-call, iirc..).
Easier that way, plus gives them a little $-support for their knowledge/guidance they provided to you.