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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Has anyone ever run this turbo? Its a t3/t04b s trim .60 .63. How much hp is turbo capable of making? I was looking to make 300-320whp on a built z6. Okay from some research, I can see that it flows a little more than a t3 60 trim (which i used to have on my old setup). I didn't mind the spool time at all (wasn't constantly in boost). Any opinions on this particular turbo?
 

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Well if you plan on going T3T4 then go with a bigger compressor then the S trim. My reasoning is the Garrett T3 super 60 has the same sized inducer and can flow as much as it does. You are not really gaining anything at all except you will be losing spool.

If you want to outperform what you had without losing to much spool look into a T3T4 50 trim with a small .48 hot side. This will easily hit the numbers you are trying to ahieve as well spool fairly decent.
 

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Some people have good luck with Blaast, while others have had big issues with them. I honestly would look elsewhere for a turbo. Hell, you can find NEW Garrett t3/t4 turbos for around $600 + ship
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I no longer have the t3 60 trim btw. I was also considering the go-autoworks spec t3/t4 50 trim turbo. From the looks of it, seems like a good match for my goals. I can also make a little more hp if desired also.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Any opinions on the t3/t4e 46 trim? Seems like a suitable candidate for 300whp, right?
 

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Might fall a bit short of hitting 300.

At reasonable boost pressures, on pump gas, at least.
 

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I used the same turbo on my vitara set up. I'm actually running it right now in the car. The turbo only made 246 whp before it started to fall off. (stop making boost at high rpm). It spools like a mo-fo (2400 for me) but your high end will fall off. I upgraded to a different turbo from blasst t3/t4e 57 trim. Its $450 and will be better for your power goals. You will not make over 250 with the s trim. Check my build thread
 

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T04b v-trim .55 ar, .70 exhaust from bullseye, uses a t3 flange.. good for 25 psi and is capable of 450 hp.. is the one i got... it came off this car in the link.. the whole turbo setup did that is

read the 5th post....thats only at 10lbs of boost on a stock motor... hope it helps

BRMS eCtune Dyno Results - Carolina Hondas
 

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Any opinions on the t3/t4e 46 trim? Seems like a suitable candidate for 300whp, right?
With the .48 turbine housing, I dint think so. I've tried it, and left it at 15psi and ~240 something whp. Anything higher, and the torque started to fall off pretty hard in the higher rpm's. That was on a d16z6, vitara's and fjt custom i-beams, log manifold, stock head and everything else. Sure, I could have gotten a little more power out of it, but I dont want a diesel'ish / VAG powerband. I doubt I could have reached 300. But I liked it, great spool and very strong mid-end. Just not the one I'd recommend if your goal is 300.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all of the info, so it seems that everyone is directing me towards atleast a t3/t4 50 trim or 57 trim.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would like a fun street car. I wanted to keep boosts low corners and turn the boost up for the straights. From a little research, looks like the 16G might suit my needs. Any input?
 

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I would like a fun street car. I wanted to keep boosts low corners and turn the boost up for the straights. From a little research, looks like the 16G might suit my needs. Any input?
Which 16G? There's several. Small (6cm?) 16G, Big 16G (7cm?), and the 16G6 (iirc, dual scroll, a fair amount bigger than the Big 16G)...
The dyno bellow might interest you, though.


CRX, Built D16z6, Custom kit, 292whp/250tq, Hondata S300 | Evans Tuning Dyno Database
Built D16z6, Custom kit, 292whp/250tq, Hondata S300

Engine:
D16z6
SRP 8.5:1 pistons
scat rods
stock intake manifold and throttle body
arp headstuds
cometic headgasket

Performance Modifications:
Custom exhaust manifold
evo big 16g turbo
stock o2 housing
2.5″ downpipe and exhaust
no cat
large front mount
custom charge piping
greddy bov
greddy profec b boost controller
DSM 450cc injectors
Walbro 255lph HP Intank Fuel Pump
AEM FPR
Hondata S300

Tuning at 20psi on 93 octane:
 

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syxsweed- On the different 16G's the only thing that differs is the compressor unless you find an old and super rare TD05 16G which has a smaller turbine. The hotsides are different but only when it comes to design and size. Mitsubishi uses a different way to describe the hotside AR which is in cm/3. The 7cm/3 is bigger then 6cm/3.

Anyway the turbines are all the same TD05H turbine. All the Evo turbines are the same except maybe the newest Evo X but you can use the Evo X on the TD05H turbine (I personally know this). There is one Evo turbine which spins the opposite direction and is an odd ball but its dimensions are the same just backwards.

That is not that best dyno to list as I have seen more from less builds with the 16G. He also could have run some more boost as well as maybe used a more aggressive tune. There are a lot of factors though. The type of dyno has a lot to do with it as well. That could have been an eGay turbo. Do you know the builder personally by chance? I don't want someone to feel I am ragging on their build cause I am not. I just wanted more clarification.

I will say that if that is as good as you can get a 16G to perform then you are a lot better off with a T3T4.


Here is one I refer to. Yes it is a Toyota 4AGE and not a D16 but a D16 spools a turbo faster and usually makes more overall hp then the 4AGE when they use the same setup and parts. Notice how quick it spools on the 4AAGE.

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/mr2records/dyno/sbawa_305.jpg

He should have been able to produce another 25hp with 5 more pounds as well. Is there anything else that sticks out in that build that should have been modified but was not? I know a cam would have really helped his cause. Some cams will gain you as much as 40whp at 20psi over stock so I think that would be the missing link in his setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am really leaning towards the big 16g. A lot of helpful people on this site and I thank you all for the information. Seems like the 16g has the spool time and power capabilities that will suit my needs. One thing I am concerned with, is the internal wastegate. Do they sell a flange that will block off the wastegate actuator hole so I can run an external or is my only option to weld it shut?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
OK, So I have been doing some more research and found out that you can fit a t3 housing on a 16g? Read that it is 10cm and that the t3 housing will help spool time while the 16g housing will help with top end. Can anyone confirm this?
 

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I can confirm that where ever you heard that , that they are smoking large quantities of a very powerful strain of Marijuana, most likely from Amsterdam. Maybe even Ketamine or a blend of Nutmeg and DXM. Or a combination of all them (the most likely scenario).

First off the 16G uses a v band to bolt the hotside to the bearing housing. The T3 uses a series of two clamps and 6 bolts. The turbines are drastically different (I will have comparison photos Monday for this).

I have seen T4 compressors used in Mitsubishi housings before but this will require the compressor shaft hole to be milled bigger to accept the larger mitsubishi shaft and the compressor housing machined for it fit. You have to sleeve the compressor housing in some instances because they get to big.

Now there are aftermarket companies, as well as some Ching Chong, that make Mitsubishi hot side housing that use a T3 mounting flange and that may be what you meant. Mitsubishi makes about 10 different hot side housings (estimate). The housing you chose will be dictated by your purpose for the car. You mentioned a daily driver so a 10cm is pretty big and I would highly advise against it. I would seriously try a 6cm from a 14B and if not happy then I would port it and see how I liked it. You can also clip the turbine if that does make you happy in 5 degree increments all the way up to 15 degrees. All of these things help keep cost down for the build and will have the same effect which is bring boost on at later point.

Turbos are very weird as you are constantly given something here to gain something here. Its a big trade off. You have to know how to balance each trade to get what you want. A lot of people get the concept that bigger is better. This is not necessarily true.

The reason why the manufacturers use different AR is so that they can use the same Cartridge (which is everything minus the hotside housing and compressor cover) for more then one application. Think about it. A 4G63T will have completely different spool characteristics then D15 will. However by tuning the turbo with different cold side and hot side AR's you can get the turbo to function in an identical fashion. There is a lot of science invovled here and it may be out of the scope for this conversation but trust me this works.

The other reason I would suggest the smaller housing is that the bigger the housing in cm/3 sized, the more they weigh. You will be putting a lot of extra weight in an area that is already getting stressed by heat and excessive weight. I am not saying that it will not hold up but it is something to think about.
 
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