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Discussion Starter #1
One thing I never thought of when I got a mini ram was the oil drain. Now that I'm putting it together I'm realizing how low the turbo sits. The oil drain sits slightly higher than the oil pan mating surface.



I was thinking of running it kind of like the way I'm holding it in the picture above(I wouldn't use that small hose I just used it for the picture). I would have a 45 degree 1/2 npt heater hose fitting with a 5/8 Barb fitting on the end. Then run the hose to the pan. Would it be best to use a straight fitting into the pan or another 45 degree heater fitting? I would just use the straight but with the car on the ground the oil pan slopes forward a little and it would cause a slight uphill.

Another question is how necessary is it to have the drain above the oil line in the pan, if seen some k series and s2000 kits use the oil pan drain plug as the return port. If I could put my fitting lower it would make me feel more comfortable since it would have a steeper slope. Does anyone know where the oil level is in the pan with the engine shut off and while running? I ask that because I would think the oil would level off in the return line at the same level as the oil in the pan.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated my gf is about to kill me if I spend anymore time staring at my phone/lap top lol.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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That angle looks fine to me
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If I go much higher I won't have much of a slope.

I know the line is small I said above I just used it for the picture and I'll be using 5/8 line for the final product.
 

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I'd rather have a little less slope than have oil backsplashing back up the drain. I would definitely try to go higher on the pan.
 

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1992 Civic DX Hatch
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if you are above the oil line in the pan I would think almost stright across with a large diameter tube would be fine.
 

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97 honda coupe
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thats about how high my turbo sat with my mini ram, ended up using two 45's. i just went to home depot and picked up a black iron 1/2 pipe coupling and welded it straight to the pan. Welded pretty nice and didnt crack or leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Where did you tap the pan, cervan?

I did a rough estimate with the dip stick and what I found d was the oil practically sits at the top of the pan when the engine isn't running.

I really starting to consider tapping the pan lower than most do and see what happens. I think I'd rather have it under the oil level than have it high and have little to no slope.

As I said already, the Freddy kits for the newer si's use the drain plug for the return so it can't be that bad.
 

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ej8
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Where did you tap the pan, cervan?

I did a rough estimate with the dip stick and what I found d was the oil practically sits at the top of the pan when the engine isn't running.

I really starting to consider tapping the pan lower than most do and see what happens. I think I'd rather have it under the oil level than have it high and have little to no slope.

As I said already, the Freddy kits for the newer si's use the drain plug for the return so it can't be that bad.
Yea the oil level drops as the motor is running.
But it is best to have it as high as possible. Also big as possible.
How you have it now doesnt look to bad. Jist note that if the oil level while running is right there you will get no draining
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If it won't drain with the oil level there then how do the Greddy kits that use the drain plug as a return work?

From my understanding the oil should stay level in the drain where it sits in the pan.

Say if you take a bucket full of water and put it in a pool and drill a hole in the bottom of the side of the bucket. Won't the bucket drain until it's at the same level as water in the pool?

My brain is starting to hurt lol
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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Greddy D kits dont use the drain plug, they come with a little fitting you drill out and sheetmetal screw into the pan
 

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90 crx si/96 accord
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This is where I mounted mine, basically that same setup your using, but a little different

What I did was drill/tap the 1/2" pipe fitting on a 1/8" stock plate, drilled the hole in the pan, then welded the plate. I'm using a 1/2" 45° pipe fitting. Then using a 1/2" pipe to 5/8" hose barb. I'm also running a mini ram with a 14B.

I liked the idea of using the pipe coupler, sounds like ALOT less hassle then what I put my self thru
 

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I have the Go Autoworks mini ram, had the same problem. Contacted Greg and he suggested running a 45 fitting with some thick rubber line, so I did. Also cocked a straight fitting slightly upwards and had it welded/filled into the pan. I had to dremel part of the upper baffle in the pan when I tapped it because of where I shot the Uni-bit into the pan and it went through the baffle plate. Clocked the center cartridge so that it was pretty well a downward, straight shot into the drain fitting on the pan, haven't had any trouble out of it. It was roughly where you have yours lined up, maybe just a bit lower actually.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Mine is actually a go-autoworks miniram I bought off a member on here! What you just described is actually the same idea I came up with today so I'm happy to hear someone else did the same thing. Unfortunately I can't tig weld so I'm going to hit up rcautoworks to see if I can ship them my pan.
 
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