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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
See attached Picture, came out of the car below.

D16A6 block
PG6B pistons +0.007 P2D
Stock resized rods with ARP
Ported Z6 head (mill, valve job, exhaust valve guides, stock z6 springs and retainers)
Zex 59300 3-bolt AEM cam gear
~12.7:1 Compression
S2 intake with 56mm throttle body
RC 310 injectors
eBay header
8lb flywheel
Mishimoto Integra X-Line Radiator
S40 EX Transmission rebuilt with syncrotech carbon synchros, 4.25 FD
Chrome Free Tune

Dyno:



More Dyno:


Old Pic from first dyno:


Time to install ZC gears.

Car is getting New Y8 MLS HG, Old one lightly blew out between the layers.. Gonna look into smoothing the head and shaving the HG like Dan, Did you simply use sanding rolls?

You can hear Det lightly at full throttle on ramps hot days and such. Sounds like bolts dropping out of the engine and shit. Crazy obvious when it happens. Octane makes it go away, as do the cold wet days here. Gonna try to sneak by the compression with a smoother Combustion chamber and better tune before resorting to water/meth. Looked a little sooty/muddy possibly from HG leak or 13 AFR cruising.

New Rod and Main Bearings, probably King again since they held up. Should be ~$40. Only set back a few hundred bucks total. Car has over 40K and a few years on it, as well as a few reverse doughnuts.

Have tons of old spare diffs to swap in, was thinking about welding up a spare. Do they ever take out the gear stacks when a welded diff breaks something, or only the FD/CS?

Anyway, this one put a hole in the case so Looking for another Y7 or Y8 S40 trans in the 98371 area. ~Tacoma, Wa
 

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Classic Man
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Wurth sanding drums is what I used. Any sanding roll or drum or cone should do it. 60-80 grit.


Dont weld up the diff, just run another open diff with lower mileage or get an LSD used some where. They come up for sale locally all the time for cheap.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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got a pic of that between layer blown HG? I've never seen one of those before

also, get a real battery tiedown from a pick and pull, come on man
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Here is 5 Pictures of the Engine.

Dan, Thought the Diff failure was interesting at that gear. Maybe wrong section overall, oh well.

Bone, Just because the engine pings at WOT on Hot days, does not mean the engine is always pinging.

Shoebox, Ahaha, Many things have been corrected like a full intake and stock sized battery. I'll look for a more updated view. Uploading more in another post.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The car was using water, and a little rich while cruising, 13: AFRs. Still a bit unfamiliar with such soft deposits, Maybe someone can chip in. Most of it wipes off. Oil seeping back in from top or bottom? Hmm
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Heres the last of the pictures, Trying to let me tune it this time, too broke to afford s300

Another Open diff is probably gonna go back in. Guess he got a Z6 trans for 100 and wants me to install his shit.

Gave him a ZC 3rd and CX 3rd->4th told him to grind the CS 1mm and inside MS gear bevel for the CX to work. Last time I didn't grind inside the MS gear and it sounded/felt a little funny. We will see how far he gets.

Anyway, just posting about an old build that got started from here a few years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Just a Freshen up.

And some preventative crank bearing replacements.

Expected the Engine to let go of the rod, smash the ported head and it all to be over real quick, but the Open Diff was the first to stop it. Not even, actually drove home on it squeeling.

There is carbonized soot by the water holes on the HG which was interesting. I understand contaminated charge, Oil and soot will promote det, but need to figure how it got there.



See it was hard to tell if it was oil, or rich gas + water on the piston. Don't know if the pistons need to come out and get a hone and new rings.. or if the heads leaking again through the guides. There was quite minimal oil consumption, VC vent and Black box dump to atmosphere. (Draft tube, Haha) Maybe lack of crank case vacuum was less than optimal? Thoughts?

I'll get more transmission carnage up soon.



@STRATTON Because it generally doesn't need E85 to perform without Det on the Dyno. The location of the burn on the ground strap looks good with premium on a Standard Day. It gets race gas on hot days or when it gets tracked.

The owner is a bit of a cheapskate and doesn't wanna get involved with tuning, rather pay a guy to dyno it and then bitch about transient response being poor. I feel like 165whp was extremely good results, I'd simply like to see them consistent for another 40K. It kicks the butts of B16 and old B18Cs, stock WRXs. Gets 45 MPG+ and is the owners daily.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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wasn't staked well enough.....and driver likes doing one wheel peels which is what killed the diff pin/pinion gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Reverse doughnuts to be exact, they are fun, y'all should try a few in your life time

It was my VERY first transmission build. I use green Loctite and Lots more Heavy Stakes now.

TOO BAD NOBODY WANTED ALUMINUM PLATES TO TACK WELD IN THERE. Too busy talking shit.
 
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