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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello dso family,

I was tearing apart a transmission and it was going pretty well until I got to pulling the ISB.

only eight ball left, no trace in the gearbox (unless metal filings).
The problem is it came apart when I tried to knock it out from the clutch housing side.
Now I have this:

from what I have searched and read, it practically falls out. But this one is in pretty snug.
and nothing can get enough of a 'bite' on it to pull it.
Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I tried heating it with an old hair dryer, worked fine for the bearing on the other end.
But, without any weight from the 'innards', I don't think it will just fall out.

What kind of tools do you have at your disposal? Welders? Claw pullers? Slide hammers?
I have a 2 claw puller and a slide hammer. but nothing sharp enough to get under the bearing case.

Will a 3 jaw internal puller not grip the race enough to get it out with a slide hammer?
with my 2 claw puller, if something could force the arms apart it might get a grip on it.
but tha way it is, nothing happens.

For stuff like that, I personally use a single shallow claw on the end on a slide hammer, push the claw in tight to the race with your foot, slam up real hard with the slide, move 180 out and do it again, until there is enough of a gap under the race.
It may take a while to create the gap, but consistent blows from a shallow claw like that will eventually get a gap wide enough between the race and the case bearing bore to fit a 2 or 3 claw puller on the end of a slide hammer to do the full monty.
i can try something like that, and see what happens. there is a keyway where maybe something can get it started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Once again dso comes through!
thanks to everyone for reading and replying.
of course, no one thing did it, it took a combination.

So I'm going to go a different route with this because its aluminum, and I've had this same thing happen many times. I echo Talon's use of the single claw puller and a slide hammer, or the type with the "handle" that comes out that you can beat on, however, I suggest using Freeze Off instead of heat. I know it sounds counter intuitive to make the metal cold, but I have had great luck using it for all sorts of things, including several ISB's that looked just as tragic as yours. And yes, those ball bearings were pulverized by the gears and final drive. Follow the directions for the freeze off and it will work. Spray directly onto the bearing shell for 30 seconds (I'd just circle it), let it sit for 2 minutes
i did try the cold spray, until the whole area was covered in frost, but still didn't move.

Grab a storage tote that the case fits in, fill with 130°F water, soak the case bearing down for about 2 minutes, last 3 that came apart on me slid right out once the case hit temp, another one was a bit more stubborn, had to turn my impact hammer all the way down and buzz the case around the throw out bearing guide before it dropped.
this, kind of...
i filled a storage tote (if your playing along at home, the trans case is roughly 15" x 20") with the hottest water my water heater could muster (too hot to keep your hands in for more that a few seconds.)
after soaking a few minutes, I tapped a first with a small flat screw driver underneath the bearing shell.
again and again roughly 60* until there was a gap.
Then I used a large flat screw driver to repeat the steps with the small one.


finally there was enough gap to get the jaws of the slide hammer and pull it the rest of the way.

I scraped up the face of the bearing seat, but after going over it with some emory cloth, i don't think it will do any harm.

A) Tack weld a washer to the outer bearing shell
that was the first thing I thought of, but my buddy who is a welder moved to FL about 3 months ago.
He took his welder with him, lol.

B) Notch the outer shell along the oil drain back groove with a cut off death wheel, then use a chisel to fracture the outer shell.
definitely the last resort, if all else fails...

C) Put the balls back in, then space then out and use a normal puller like my snap-on.
I tried this too, but eight is not enough, it just comes apart again.

D) Try a normal bearing puller and grip the bearing groove just enough and it might slide out. Too much pressure and it will lodge itself in the case.
the bearing groove is too round for my puller to get a grip:madface:.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Crap! has it really been that long? family issues *(death, etc, lol) forced this on to the back burner.
after replacing all the bearings, now is that part I dread...
Putting it back together.

Looks like its all seated properly, but does not turn freely.

It seems like it's stuck between gears?
Any ideas?
Is there something I should check?
I can take more pics if that would help.
Thanks in advance!
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thank you for the replies everyone, I figured it would take a few tries to get it right.
shift arm A is not into the shift forks properly....

it figures, I was looking on the wrong (interlock) side...
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
so I was able to pull the shaft/slider assy out, no hammer required, just pull and jiggle.
neither the shift rod or shift arm shaft moved, here is a pic of shift arm C, seated in shift arm A.

is it supposed to be different?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
My diagram has them labeled different. Interlock and shift arm B in your diagram. I need to check my manuals, I know Helms has mislabeled things before.
so maybe then before trying to put the shaft 'bundle' in, put the interlock & shift arm b like:

and line up the slider ends like:

hopefully they can stay lined up...
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Counter shaft case bearing needs staked in ASAP!
Ok, bad picture, but I done it.

two days, a smashed finger and 94549645945494594523523532454524559 cuss words later...

all three sliders are seated on the interlock and shift arm, and bolt threaded in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
sorry for being a post whore...

assembled - sort of, still need the reverse parts and the main shaft bearing that kept falling off is now too tight :madface:
BUT it turns like a ... gearbox. no binding (at least in whatever gear it is in now) :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
4th gear! make sure it is in nuetral and centered before installing the inter lock guide bolt from the bell housing side.
Sure! Except, how do I know when it's in neutral and centered? (when the main shaft is not turning the countershaft...)
So there are 3 detents in the Shift Rod, and in all three positions, the countershaft is engaged with the main shaft.
And how can you tell what gear its in? it looks like they are all engaged to me:mad:
Also, it doesn't seem to go in reverse. is that a problem?
How does the transmission know whether the shift lever is on the driver or middle or passenger side of the pattern?
(1/2 or 3/4 or 5/Reverse)
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Thank you guys for taking the time tor reply.
I will need to read this a few times for it to sink in...
I was asking a lot of questions not just for myself but for anyone else reading this.

I did put in the reverse gear and selector. lol I was expecting to finally the get the 'shaft bundle' in, only to find the thrust washers on the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
So would this be neutral?

or am I overlooking something?
how about a throw back thursday pic, anyone?
 
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