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Discussion Starter #1
i just wanna start getting my feet wet into my starter project, i know everyone hates ssautochrome because of the breaks when it gets horrible amounts of stress. my ? is when ur only boosting like 6-7 lbs, its should be ok right?, also are these turbos actually new? the only reason this kit peaks my interest is because it allows me too keep my a/c and power steering, any feedback would be awesome, i mean its stock internally gated t25 how many lbs do u think its pushing?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Super-Bolt-On-Civic-Turbo-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQitemZ8035150137QQrdZ1#ebayphotohosting
 

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the MAD scientist
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The main problem with those kits are the manifolds. They tend to break and crack if they are not braced properly.
 

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D-Series Post Be-itch... gimme gimme gimme
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That, and the turbo's don't use ball-bearings... The garrett turbo's do. Not a huge deal, but when I go turbo, I want to be sure i don't have to worry about it... Plus BB turbo's spool a little quicker...
 

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D-Series Post Be-itch... gimme gimme gimme
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they use journal bearings...



A ball bearing



Turbo Response – When driving a vehicle with the cartridge ball bearing turbocharger, you will find exceptionally crisp and strong throttle response. Garrett Ball Bearing turbochargers spool up 15% faster than traditional journal bearings. This produces an improved response that can be converted to quicker 0-60 mph speed.

Reduced Oil Flow – The ball bearing design reduces the required amount of oil required to provide adequate lubrication. This lower oil volume reduces the chance for seal leakage. Also, the ball bearing is more tolerant of marginal lube conditions, and diminishes the possibility of turbocharger failure on engine shut down.

Improved Rotordynamics and Durability – The ball bearing cartridge gives better damping and control over shaft motion, allowing enhanced reliability for both everyday and extreme driving conditions. In addition, the opposed angular contact bearing cartridge eliminates the need for the thrust bearing commonly a weak link in the turbo bearing system.

All from the Garrett site... http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech101.html

Which, BTW, might be a good read for you...
 

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What if u bought one of those turbo kits, and u just replaced th problem areas, like turbo mani. and the turbo itself, would u still have allot of problems? and would it be a cheaper route?? or just stay away from it period?
 

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u could build yourself a decent kit with the money u would spend originally plus the money you would spend to replace parts. do research 1st homeboi... its taking me 4mo building my setup for the upcomming summer... research pays off in the end and you will also be happy with the final product. but if your looking at the NOW i guess ss is ok but you'll be sorry when things start messn up
 

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naw. I dont need anything messin up now, lol! I worked my ass off to get the d16z6 engine in it now, so i wanna make sure i do this Turbo project right. Thanks bro, for the heads up, i think ill stay away from it Period.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
so basically a ballbearing garret turbo is about 300.00 for a somewhat decent one? i read that section over and yah, ball bearings are the way too go.
 

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D-Series Post Be-itch... gimme gimme gimme
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Thats the thing... I don't thing that budget and turbo belong in the same sentence... Yes, you could do it for cheap, but why? I just believe that if you do it right, you won't have to worry as much...
 

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the MAD scientist
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Richie_A_19 said:
Thats the thing... I don't thing that budget and turbo belong in the same sentence... Yes, you could do it for cheap, but why? I just believe that if you do it right, you won't have to worry as much...
eh, I just dont like spending alot of money. Theres no reason why you cant have a reliable car on a budjet. You dont need a BB turbo, peakboost manifold, AEM EMS, to make a good kit.

I mean come on... Its a turbo honda... even one put together with the best parts will still have problems. And when something does take a crap it will be 10x more expensive to fix. IMO
 

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D-Series Post Be-itch... gimme gimme gimme
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I know... I just figure thast if the IMPORTANT parts are the better ones (turbo, HG, headbolts), and you have a good tune, the chances that you will have a problem are less than if you buy an SS turbo and use a FPR, ya know??
 

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mikeD16Z6 said:
eh, I just dont like spending alot of money. Theres no reason why you cant have a reliable car on a budjet. You dont need a BB turbo, peakboost manifold, AEM EMS, to make a good kit.

I mean come on... Its a turbo honda... even one put together with the best parts will still have problems. And when something does take a crap it will be 10x more expensive to fix. IMO
exactly. a rebuilt non-BB Garrett will be a reliable turbo that will last longer than you will probably own your car
 

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Discussion Starter #19
ahhhh i see all of your points here, very good info, i just want something for a good 6 psi, i mean in all serious i don't wanna race the hell out of my car, i jsut want a little extra kick , not enough to melt hg's and pistons. i'm still researching and puttin numbers together , my main concerns were keeping a/c and p/s. but more info is sweet, keep it coming
 

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I Personally have the SSAC Complete kit and its actually not bad...the Manfold is newer then the older ones that broke...its actually braced in 6 diffrent spots now...and i dont see how it could break...but i guess anything is possible...but everything looks good.
 
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