[firsteg]

i found this 1/8 BSP Oil "T" Fitting fitting for a t off the back of my block so i can keep my stock oil pressure sensor and have a feed to my turbo.

it looks like alright quality, but my main concern was the thread. it is kinda hard to tell in the photo if it does actually have a tapered thread.

because it doesn't specify that it is BSPT or BSPP it just says BSP.

has anyone ran this fitting before? or tried to buy it and it turned out to be the wrong one?

i did look at the rest of the fittings they sell labeled BSP and from the photo's i could see that they are tapered.

the main reason i wanted to get this one other than a better know fitting maker is this is the only place i have found so far with that layout of the male and female.

i am also thinking of running the feed to the turbo with steel brake line so i don't have to worry about rubbing anywhere and i have all the tools to do it and some spare line.

as far as i have read around 1/4" should be fine for turbo feed line size.

any thoughts appreciated! :TU:

 

[DreaMer]

you don't want a brass tee fitting off the block. been known to crack from the heat and vibration.

 

[xylocramer]

what type of metal would you suggest?

 

[firsteg]

you don't want a brass tee fitting off the block. been known to crack from the heat and vibration.

So most people use steel fittings?

 

[TheToaster]

I use
this block adapter

with these adaptors

And this T

And this restrictor

Connect it to the block with this hose and mount it on the firewall somewhere. Use thread tape on the pipe fittings, but not on the AN fittings, spun the RIGHT way.

Pretty cheap too.

 

[sleepingciv]

I have brass used for awhile nothing wrong with it.

Sent from my Desire HD using AutoGuide.Com Free App

 

[firsteg]

I use
this block adapter

with these adaptors

And this T

And this restrictor

Connect it to the block with this hose and mount it on the firewall somewhere. Use thread tape on the pipe fittings, but not on the AN fittings, spun the RIGHT way.

Pretty cheap too.

sweet that is awesome thanks

oh and i just got a email back from them saying that it is a tapered fitting.

i may have to go a different rout with what i am thinking of doing now to get the correct adapters and such.

 

[rndmheroxx]

Also used brass... no problems

 

[paulzy]

If you really insist on a T fitting, get a steel one from mcmaster. I recommend a sandwich plate.

 

[TheToaster]

That let me plug in my Turbo feed after the restrictor and the sensor before it on the T. You really don't need the stock sender it is just the dummy light <9psi.

I hate sandwhich plates and all their lack of accessibility and the leaks.

 

[firsteg]

That let me plug in my Turbo feed after the restrictor and the sensor before it on the T. You really don't need the stock sender it is just the dummy light <9psi.

the oil light would be on all the time if you just unplugged it wouldn't it?
or is there a way to disable that?

it wouldn't be hard to just keep it on there

 

[xylocramer]

I've used a sandwich and Mine was a fucking PITA. mfactory unit, I like it but getting it to not leak was impossible.

Using a T on my next build. And, Using a T, the turbo gets filtered oil. Using a plate turbo get oil pre filtration. Do you really want to be sending unfiltered oil into your turbo??

 

[TheToaster]

The oil light stays off when you unplug the sender unit.

 

[Blu3]

I've used a sandwich and Mine was a fucking PITA. mfactory unit, I like it but getting it to not leak was impossible.

Using a T on my next build. And, Using a T, the turbo gets filtered oil. Using a plate turbo get oil pre filtration. Do you really want to be sending unfiltered oil into your turbo??

there are sandwich adapters that filter the oil i just dont remember which ones, sandwich adapters are the easiest route imo and the oil gets filtered at some point so its not like your running pure unfiltered oil through all the time. my sandwich doesnt leak any oil just make sure the block is clean in the area and you lube the oring on the sandwich adapter then tighten her down

 

[DreaMer]

personally i tapped my block to npt and stuck a steel fitting that runs to a 3an then to a tee.
off topic... with my setup i have a 4' that feeds the tee from the block. off my my tee is my Turbo oil feed and the other is my pressure gauge. will this setup kill pressure a lot?

i had a v1 glowshift oil filter adapter . it sucked. also had a v2. it also sucks. the o ring is a bitc* with the engine in the car.

 

[TheToaster]

I kinda wonder if thats whats happening with my sending unit because I lost hot idle oil pressure going from 10w-30 to 5w-40

 

[The_Acid_Beaver]

Brass breaks. Anyone who hasn't had it happen is like someone who rides a motorcycle: not if you dump but when.

Use a steel fitting to a looped line to a T.

 

[firsteg]

The oil light stays off when you unplug the sender unit.

okay that's awesome i thought it would just stay on all the time. and just to make sure vtec checks oil pressure throught the vtec solenoid right so it would still engage right?

Brass breaks. Anyone who hasn't had it happen is like someone who rides a motorcycle: not if you dump but when.

Use a steel fitting to a looped line to a T.

okay no point in going brass then thanks for the tips. i probably just do the loop to the T idea.

 

[TheToaster]

You don't need a loop. Slack is fine..Your engine wont move more than 1-2 inches.

The back of block sensor ONLY controls the light.

 

[firsteg]

okay i think this is how i'm going to do it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all48052 X2

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all50120 X2

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all50137 X1

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2269/overview/ X1

all from the same place just to make it easy comes out to $34.50 not too bad
going to run a line off the back to a T somewhere by the right side of the intake manifold or the firewall then to the turbo from there.

thanks the toaster, beaver and everyine else for the help.

also am i right in thinking that all the small brass fittings will be fine? just the bigger brass T's and such that crack when they aren't supported right?