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Discussion Starter #1
Sup folks, I have a problem. I can rev on my car and I can drive like a madman and there's only minimal burning oil, but as soon as I coast in gear for longer than, say 3 seconds, a exhausty/oil smell permeates the cabin and sticks around for a good 30 seconds. I'm not losing any significant amount of oil between changes, I've never had to top it off, even once.

It goes like this, you can hold the engine at 3k in neutral, and no smell.

You can cruise at a constant 3k, whatever speed that may be, no smell.

But when you're coming off a bridge or something and you let the car coast in gear, bam, there's the smell.

I have run seafoam, I've tried different oils, I was using 5w-30 but I switched to 10w-30 to see if that would help any, but it hasn't.

It's not a straight-up burning oil smell though, it could be mistaken for an exhaust smell, but I've noticed the smell changes when I use different brands of oils, it smells like the brand of oil I'm using.

So I was thinking worn rings, but have worn rings ever only leaked while coasting and not under other conditions?

Could it be the valve seals? I don't know the common symptoms of worn valve seals, maybe someone could educate me.

Some additional info, the cat in this car had overheated, probably from clogging, and I had it removed, now it has a straight-thru piece of pipe (no emissions down here). Also my oil doesn't get a lot of abuse but when I go to change it at 3k (strict 3k/3m change) it is pretty black. So there's some premature blackening of the oil. Isn't that often caused by exhaust in the oil?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
valve seals normally when you are deccelerating.
cool, cool that's probably what it is. That's not something that can be done in a day with regular tools is it?
 

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you can rent tools like a valve spring compressor from autozone if you live near one, or buy one for around 20bucks.. only other thing i would suggest is a trq wrench... everything else is basic hand tools
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Yep, valve stem seals. Luckily we drive sohcs and they're hella easy with the right tools.
awesome, I'm glad to finally get a straight answer on this

*edit* which are they on majestic? Are they listed?
Honda Automotive Parts

and as far as changing them, you need a valve spring compressor right?
 

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you can rent tools like a valve spring compressor from autozone if you live near one, or buy one for around 20bucks.. only other thing i would suggest is a trq wrench... everything else is basic hand tools
and youll need something to keep the valves from falling into the motor, unless you want to remove the head.
 

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number 4 and 5..

before you buy them and install, you might want to check the compression of you motor before hand just to make sure it is indeed valve seals
 

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and youll need something to keep the valves from falling into the motor, unless you want to remove the head.
Can you put the cylinder you're working on at TDC so if they fall they'll stop? The manual says to use compressed air, but I don't have an air compressor
 

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that may work, the valve shouldnt drop all the way down.. just spind the crank for each set of valves
 

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Can you put the cylinder you're working on at TDC so if they fall they'll stop? The manual says to use compressed air, but I don't have an air compressor
That is EXACTLY what I did with mine! Worked like a charm! Just took out all the spark plugs and used a long extension to verify that the piston was in fact at TDC before anything was removed. But I can tell you this, on used/higher mileage heads the carbon buildup usually keeps the valves in the guides anyhow while working on it. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That is EXACTLY what I did with mine! Worked like a charm! Just took out all the spark plugs and used a long extension to verify that the piston was in fact at TDC before anything was removed. But I can tell you this, on used/higher mileage heads the carbon buildup usually keeps the valves in the guides anyhow while working on it. LOL
sweeet, hah my shit is overrun with buildup! I cleaned the injectors the other day, and it was like a teaspoons worth each, never saw a car with so much, I wonder if they were ever removed during the life of the car? I can't imagine how my valve seals will look.
 

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I have an oil burning problem with my 93 Civic DX (SOHC non-vtec D15B plain vanilla swap). I replaced the valve stem seals on it last week. You have to tap on the valve stems some to seat the spring keepers, so I did not want to just move the pistons to TDC to support the valves and risk marring or even bending the valves. I stuffed rope into the cylinders instead, like a lot of people suggest as an easy reliable alternative to compressed air. Writeup and photos at honda.lioness - Oil Leaks .
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have an oil burning problem with my 93 Civic DX (SOHC non-vtec D15B plain vanilla swap). I replaced the valve stem seals on it last week. You have to tap on the valve stems some to seat the spring keepers, so I did not want to just move the pistons to TDC to support the valves and risk marring or even bending the valves. I stuffed rope into the cylinders instead, like a lot of people suggest as an easy reliable alternative to compressed air. Writeup and photos at honda.lioness - Oil Leaks .
that's a good idea, thanks
 
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