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Discussion Starter #1
I just got my mini ram and my Garrett t3 installed tonight. I have a Moroso Oil pan. It has 2 bungs in the front. Here is a pic of the pan I have.



I originally planned on using the top for my oil return line. Well after installing the mini ram and the Garrett t3 the return is below the top one. Will my bottom bung work as a return?



If not what are my options?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here are 2 side view pics of the pan. There is also a flapper to let oil from that chamber into main part and not the other way. These 2 pics show the angle of the pan and more reference of the bungs.


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well i theory it could still work as long as the center section of the turbo is above the oil level in the pan.

to accompany you would need literally 0 pressure in the block, so a kick ass breather setup, and a HUGE return line to the oil level would stay consistent in the line and not back-up...

im not 100% sure this would work because it would be difficult to circulate the oil in the return line completely into the pan to allow for oil, i mean i know it would work for like water but oil is a bit harder to move.

well its my input, obviously this setup isnt ideal, but i understand how you want to see if it will work. who makes this manifold out of curiousity? im surprise something like this manifold would be made for D-series with a normal drain setup..
 

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also an alternative would be a sump system and throw in an oil cooler, i have no idea what a system like that would cost though
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was told it was a RC Autoworks mini ram when I bought it from the kid. That may not be completely accurate I am not sure. It is SCH10 304SS. It didnt have the right head flange on it. It is a D-series mani but had a B-series tacked on from where someone tried to use it on a B and gave up. It also had a 3 bolt turbo flange on it that I cut off and welded a t3 flange on it. Nothing else could really be modded to bring the turbo up.
 

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worst case scenario, you change the manifold or run a pump

at least with a pump you can have the oil hit an external cooler before going back into the pan
 

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okay, i went to go to sleep, ended up laying in bed and was thinking about your issue..

i think the cheapest, and easiest solution would be (since you have welding skills im guessing) would be go out, buy 2 t3 flanges, and a 180 degree 2" schedule pipe and weld the t3 onto each end and boom! you got a top-mount lol.

i might sound silly but it could work, maybe do it off to the passenger side so u have room for the wastegate.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I didnt think about that. I have a plasma here I might be able to cut some. Could I also just cut the t3 flange back off and do a 180* with some 2" or 2.5" then weld the t3 flange back on it and make a top mount?

The t3 flanges arent expensive though and I ordered it this thurs and got it monday morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just found another prob. I cant run the internal wastegate setup I planned. the flapper arm hits the block. Guess I will be going EXT gated. Good thing when I received a Tial WG on the mani when it showed up. Guess Ill be buying that too.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What about running this?

Marine Utility Pump & Other 12 Volt Water Pumps - Harbor Freight Tools

I found a forum where some Buick Grand Nationals are running them. One guy said he has been using it for over 2 years with no probs at all. Mount it on my frame rail where my PS stuff used to be. I can 90 from the bottom of my turbo to this pump and then either back to my oil pan or to a cooler and the to pan. If worried about the hot oil goin to this I can always run from the turbo to the cooler then to pump and off to pan.
 

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What about running a 45% 0r 90% fitting from the outlet instead of that straight adaptor, then mock up a hose on that , then see where it lands on the pan and mark that location, then add another bunk or an fitting on the pan. You might need to move the bunk to the left side of the pan but it should still gravity feed from that distance.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
To go from bottom of turbo to bottom drain plug I would need a Z shaped piece. It would have to come out then 90 over then 90 up to line up with the turbo. If I went with the top hole its higher than the bottom of the turbo. I have a bunch of 45* and 90* -10AN fittings but everything is so close those are to big to work
 

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To go from bottom of turbo to bottom drain plug I would need a Z shaped piece. It would have to come out then 90 over then 90 up to line up with the turbo. If I went with the top hole its higher than the bottom of the turbo. I have a bunch of 45* and 90* -10AN fittings but everything is so close those are to big to work
Maybe im lost but, Im talkin about welding a different bung or fitting in a different location in the pan....Or use a stock pan
 

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fill the pan with water ( # of quarts it holds) then mark right above the water, mock up the pan and see what you could do from there. I think welding a different bung/an fitting would be better but its up to you.
 

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Those AN fittings sucks for tight spaces like that, they waste so much space. Use normal fittings with hose clamps, or make your own adapter if you have the tools for it. I just had the same problem and made this:



I'm using a stock oil pan, and had to tap the pan right at, or just below the oil level. So far its fine. When the engine is running the oil level is much lower anyway. I highly doubt it would have been a problem to drain below the oil level either, as long as the drain is ran smooth and is big enough. I've seen prefabricated turbo kits that use the oil drain plug in the pan for return to the turbo (not civic, obviously), and they seem work just fine.
 
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