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97 honda coupe
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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought and im in the process of installing a godspeed oil cooler kit and oil filter relocation kit. In total its about 8 foot of hose, what im wondering is what you guys think of this, is it too long? should i try and cut down some of that hose so that the oil doesnt have such a long journey to make it to the bearings? also i bought a fairly small oil cooler so getting the oil too cold isnt my main concern.
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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So long as the lines are big enough and have no tight bemds it should be OK.

On my old air cooled VWs I used to run lines from the pump to a chassis mounted full flow filter then to a cooler in the very front of the car. I used 1/2" copper for the most part with about 3' of rubber to make the connections to the engine and the areas where it was to difficult to fit the copper. There was about 20' of copper. I normally used second hand coolers of Mazda RX2 engines and Z9 (Ford Falcon) spin on filters on aftermarket Z9 remote filter adapters.

So long as there was a thermostat operated bypass to direct oil straight from the filter back to the main gallery until the oil reached 80 deg C I never had a problem and I was running engines in DDs up from 25whp to 130whp so they where being pushed.
 

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97 honda coupe
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Discussion Starter #3
So long as the lines are big enough and have no tight bemds it should be OK.

On my old air cooled VWs I used to run lines from the pump to a chassis mounted full flow filter then to a cooler in the very front of the car. I used 1/2" copper for the most part with about 3' of rubber to make the connections to the engine and the areas where it was to difficult to fit the copper. There was about 20' of copper. I normally used second hand coolers of Mazda RX2 engines and Z9 (Ford Falcon) spin on filters on aftermarket Z9 remote filter adapters.

So long as there was a thermostat operated bypass to direct oil straight from the filter back to the main gallery until the oil reached 80 deg C I never had a problem and I was running engines in DDs up from 25whp to 130whp so they where being pushed.
well since i have such a small oil cooler ( 9 rows) i wasnt going to run an oil thermostat and since this isnt my daily driver i will definitly have time to let it idle and warm up the oil and water before i drive anywhere.
 

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I only mentioned thermostats because the filter and cooler where in line and I has over 20' of oil line.

If you can read pressure between the pump and the adapter and between the cooler/filter and the main gallery you will see if it spikes to high near the pump and/or falls off to much before the main gallery.

I am probably going to do something similar without a thermostat on my build.
 

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. I used 1/2" copper for the most part with about 3' of rubber to make the connections to the engine and the areas where it was to difficult to fit the copper. There was about 20' of copper.
Did you use ridged copper line with soldered connections. I was doing my cooler lines today. I wanted to do some of the lines in copper but, I was worried about vibration causing the copper or solder to crack.
 

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97 honda coupe
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Discussion Starter #6
I only mentioned thermostats because the filter and cooler where in line and I has over 20' of oil line.

If you can read pressure between the pump and the adapter and between the cooler/filter and the main gallery you will see if it spikes to high near the pump and/or falls off to much before the main gallery.

I am probably going to do something similar without a thermostat on my build.
but wouldnt the pump bypass valve increase pressure delivery for this exact reason? i also put my oil pressure gauge at the mid-point of the circuit at the relocated oil filter housing i have it setup right now to push filtered oil through the oil cooler, not through cooler first.
 

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The cooler bypass thermostat stopped it blowing filter canisters when cold, which was a pretty good reason to have it on that layout. The gauge pegged out at over250 psi dead cold if you reved above idle.
 
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