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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OKay I have a JDM D15 block and a D16Z6 block too. What components should I start with? Is the D15 block even with trying to build up? Just tell me what to do here guys. I at least want 150-160 whp N/A what should I do? I already have the stage 1 ZEX cam (59003 or which ever # it is) just plase tell me? PLEASE!
 

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93 civic
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big cam the search button and pm7 or p29 or forged in the z6 block with arp rod and head bolts basic bolt ons and a tune
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What cam? I can't run a PM7. I have a Crome street tuned P28 (was a P05 turned it into a P28). Still didn't answer my question about which block to use. Can I use the D15 block? From what I have read I can't because it's too werd, or is the info I got wrong?
 

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big cam, pm7 or p29 pistons, z6 block with arp rod and head bolts, basic bolt ons, p-n-p head, port-match Z6 IM, tune

:mikej:
 

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it will take a lot of work to get those numbers. crower stage 3 cam. you will need high compression pistons, at least 11.5:1. intake manifold, good header, ported head would also be nice. these are a few things to consider. your zex cam is too small if those are your power goals.
 

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READ!
You'll need really high compression which can be achieved several different ways such as pistons (PM7 pistons from a DOHC D16A1 and P29 pistons from a DOHC ZC are great OEM choices), or thinner headgasket, or milling your head, and flat faced valves even. You'll need a big cam such as the Crower stage 3 and upgraded valvetrain. I wouldn't even bother with an intake and intake manifold...I'd go with ITB's! They're the shit (but be aware that you may get really bad gas mileage with them). As for a header, definitely go with a custom piece. All the mass produced headers like DC Sports, Megan, Kamakazi, etc. won't cut it. You will definitely need your head p&p by someone who knows what they're doing. and I guess all I can think of is a nice 2.5" exhaust and a high flow cat or no cat at all. With that cam and the ITB's you're probably going to at least want to step up to 280cc injectors from a prelude...hell, even some 390's from a DSM wouldn't hurt. You're going to want to get ARP head studs for sure and MAYBE some ARP rod bolts if you're going with stock rods. Oh last but not least...a REALLY good tune. Look into Crome(FREE) and Uberdata(FREE) or if you have the extra cash then possibly Hondata S200 or S300($600!) I hope that helped you out some. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It did I also AIM'd K2e2vin last night and he told me I MIGHT get 150 whp out of a D17 crank, in a Z6 block, A1 pistons, Crower stage 3, Bisimoto header, my bolt ons and a tune. He seemed to be very informative and shed some light for me last night. One thing I didn't understand was why the p08 pistons might drop some hp when I put them into the Z6 block. I didn't understand that though, but then again I didn't ask either I had to go. Can somebody tell me why?
 

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and MAYBE some ARP rod bolts if you're going with stock rods.
If you are going to build it once, you might as well do it right . . .

ARP bolts can hold together a lot of stock rods. My 393 is stock 351 rods and ARP bolts and it makes decent power . . . :D
 

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really look into some ITB's for real man. They're usually better b/c it's all equal amounts of air in each cylinder. Search around and check and see what throttle body sizes are best to go with. I think around 45mm or something like is good. I may be off on that though...
 

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imo itb's is over kill for a street car, a nice ported z6 or maybe one of those 150 dollar blox mani's is fine with the pm7s or p29s arp rod n head bolts and a decently built head 145-160 is accomplishable with a good tuner thats what everythings going to boil down to as well,
 

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i agree about the itbs. i think they are overkill for the street too. they will hurt you on the bottom but help you on the big end. i sold my itbs for a cam and valvetrain. you could always give it some spray and then you will be way past what you wanted to do hp wise. to give you an idea, hear is my build and what it dynoed at. it was built by dru barrios of hondatuning magazine.

zc block
p29 pistons
z6 head
skunk2 im
68mm tb
y8 header

it did 148whp. i now have a stillen header, edelbrock im, skunk2 cam, and ported head so it should be around the 160whp. when it goes in the car this summer, we will know for sure what power it made.
 

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i dont have the dyno sheet. it was built for an article in hondatuning magazine. it was last year some time in the fall. i have the magazine lying around somewhere but i cant find it. he is a member on this website and he had it listed for sale. that is when i bought it. i will have it dynoed after i get it in this summer so i guess we will see if those numbers are accurate.

ryan
 

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you got a dyno sheet for that 148 whp pull cuz im not buying that on a stock head.....
its in honda tuning man theres a thread about it and im pretty sure you could find the article on hondatuning.com
 

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you got a dyno sheet for that 148 whp pull cuz im not buying that on a stock head.....
I made 144 whp with a stock head. you can see on the dyno sheet that the HP hits a brick wall when it hits maximum velocity in the ports.

This is what it took for me to make 144 whp and 122 wtq with a stock head: http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1717242



Each color is a different intake length. Green being a short ram, blue an AEM CAI, and purple an AEM CAI extended another 6 inches or so.
 

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I made 144 whp with a stock head. you can see on the dyno sheet that the HP hits a brick wall when it hits maximum velocity in the ports.

This is what it took for me to make 144 whp and 122 wtq with a stock head: http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1717242



Each color is a different intake length. Green being a short ram, blue an AEM CAI, and purple an AEM CAI extended another 6 inches or so.
So how do you solve a problem like that? Im assuming port the head.. but any way leaving that stock? Different header? exhaust?
 
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