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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I see this has been covered a lot but my issue is a bit different, or im just flat seeing the simple. and yes I searched lol, 2000 civic obd2b d16y8 with jumper harness to obd1, My tach is not working correct. Ive read post all day and did what everyone seems to say to fix it..so far Ive ran a new wire from the distributor icm spare terminal to the lone blue wire on the driver side shock tower.with no help in fixing it.when I start the car the tach jumps once or twice the just stops working, Ive tried 2 different ecu ( P28 AND PO6 )and 2 different gauge clusters with the same problem. keep in mind I got the jumper harness from some kid just bc he didnt need it so its probably an ebay jumper. so could the jumper be the problem ? if so when I get a good jumper should I unhook the blue wire from the distributor to the shock tower.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
update I ran a wire straight from the distributor to the back of the RPM gauge cluster and the same thing no fix
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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have you ran it direct to all the clusters?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just ran the wire straight from the distributor just to the tachometer on the stock clusterI'm starting to think the distributor ICM might be bad
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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try it on another cluster just for shits and giggles. its free and just takes a bit of time instead of buying a new part you may not need
 

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Discussion Starter #6
just tried a different gauge cluster and it's still the same thing I also swapped out the ICM in the distributor for another one still no luck
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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have you tried it from the ecu pin?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
just ran it from the gauge cluster to the ECU pinout same thing it just sits there and flutters but when I hit the gas pedal it goes to zero
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for helping I've tried everything in those links with the same outcome the only thing I can think of is I have tried two bad ICM why else would it not work going straight from ICM to cluster
 

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It will not be because of a bad ICM, as the ecu uses the rpm signal to help determine ignition timing.

Is your factory IGN module a flat oval with upward blades? or is it a square body with 3 or 4 side blades and one bent blade around a corner?
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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one of those links said the 99-00 didn't have the signal wire in the dizzy and you had to find it off the ecu.....
 

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crank sensor? just read those myself.

ecu wire can be read with some multimeters set correctly.
 

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It will not be because of a bad ICM, as the ecu uses the rpm signal to help determine ignition timing.

Is your factory IGN module a flat oval with upward blades? or is it a square body with 3 or 4 side blades and one bent blade around a corner?
mine has the square body with the terminal spades on top but it has the one extra on the side thats not being used, thats what I used to run the new wire.

I guess im going to try and locate a stock ecu just to try and see if thats the problem, as ive only been able to tru obd1 ecu's.

one of those links said the 99-00 didn't have the signal wire in the dizzy and you had to find it off the ecu.....
yup it dosent the 99-00 civic got it from the ecu, but the older civics got it from the distributor. that extra spade thats not being used in my distributor is where it used to get its signal, so im thinking running a wire there should have fixed it.
 

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maybe it has something to do with the jumper harness ,"shorting out" the tach ..
just follow some lines..

I have a 99 with working tach didn't have to tap into the ign module but I made my own obd1 adapter ,

look closer at the adapter harness ..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yea I think this one is a cheap eBay one,what brand do you recommend I really wasn't wanting to spend the money rywire wants lol
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I tried to get a good pic of what I done but its not happening with my crappy cell phone. but what I did was cut the wire on the jumper harness that was pinned to A-19 engine speed pulse. now I can run it from the distributor to the shock tower wire, or from the jumper harness to back of tach. both ways work. But id like to not do any of that and it just work. Do you think a name brand jumper would make it so I dont have to do any thing but plug and play ? id hate to short out something if that wire really isn't supposed to be cut lol.
 

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Never finishes (TWSS)
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I can't think of wire in a car that could cause damage if it wasn't hooked up. So if you ever cut the wrong wire It wouldnt ruin or short out anything, it will just cause stuff to stop working while it's unhooked.
 
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