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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
K so im curious what I have to do hear. Im currently working on a turbo project. Rebuilding top to bottom my y7 in my 96 DX and puttin a turbo on it. Well it doesnt seem practical to buy a stand alone due to money. but obviously its extremely easy to convert to obd1 ecu.

The problem I have is in the state I live in, they require E-check every 2 years. So obviously when I go to get my car e checked and the obd is not there any more, which im sure they will be able to figure out when they go to check for codes and the comp doesnt read the ecu... How will I go about temporarily goin back to obd2 and have my car runs okay enough to pass e check???

I have heard people say that changing your ecu back to stock and change your map sensor and injectors back, but wont the car run like shit like that cause the stock ecu isnt made to see boost and wil just fall on its face? Im just really confused on how to be able to do this...
 

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don't boost it under those conditions... stock injectors, stock ecu and maybe even a missing link to keep the ecu from seeing what little boost if any you might make. that should work. its better than having to remove the whole kit.
 

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If you keep turbo and but back OBD II ECU and O boost it will pass and no cell will appear.
 

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If you keep turbo and but back OBD II ECU and O boost it will pass and no cell will appear.
you would still have to swap the injectors. plus a missing link would prevent the ecu from seeing boost. stock ecu's weren't designed to see boost. if they do they will throw a CEL.
 

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A stand alone is no more legal than the OBD2-OBD1 conversion. You can stay OBD2 and use something like Greddy eManage Ultimate. Besides that, OBD2-OBD1 is cheaper and can do more depending on the tuning software you use.

myHonda1 is right. I've read about guys passing with stock injectors and an adjustable fpr to help with the AFRs. They did also use a missing link and the stock MAP sensor. Don't forget that you have to do more than just drive this around the corner to the test station. You need to have your OBD2 ECU back in place long enough to set the readiness monitors on the ECU. (or most of them... I think you can have two that are not set and still pass). You car will need to go thru a complete drive cycle with out throwing a code:

1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. (OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.)

2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. (OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge. )

3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes. (OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge. )

4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. (OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.)

5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. (OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.)

6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. (OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.)

7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. (OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.)


You can probably do all that with your turbo in place. On the other hand, it might be easier if you just returned the car to stock. You'll have to experiment a little here. At least your inspection is every two years. Ours is now annually.

but if u have the kit on wont u fail the visual?
Around here they really don't seem to worry too much about the visual. The turbo might be a little much, but they are not looking for non stock/ non CARB EO parts. I have a feeling my testing guy could care less what's under the hood, as long as it reads OK when he plugs into the test port.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Alright yeh, the emanage is a little bit over the budget i was lookin to spend, I think I might take my chances and do what Aragorn and myhonda1 said. Worse comes to worse ill just have to bring it back to stock...

but for the amount of fun and all tha good stuff with the boost, it will be worth it. haha
Really appreciate the help guys.
 

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get a friend with an inspection lisence to lick and stick... if not then dont do it!
 

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get a friend with an inspection lisence to lick and stick... if not then dont do it!
Lick and stick is pretty much gone here. '96 and newer vehicles have to be plugged in to the computer for their annual inspection. Pass/fail is all recorded there. If you fail and someone fixes it, they have to put it into the computer system as well so you can get your sticker. It's a PIA, but still seems better than a sniffer test (I think.. It's new and I only just bought a vehicle that it applies to).
 

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Wow i was just reading all that.. thats a major pain in the ass. I live in sc.. no tests at all ever. I never knew that it was that much trouble.. damn i'm feelin for ya'll.
 

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Wow i was just reading all that.. thats a major pain in the ass. I live in sc.. no tests at all ever. I never knew that it was that much trouble.. damn i'm feelin for ya'll.
May you avoid it as long as possible. It's the up and coming thing, so don't be surprised...
 

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ya no smog here, but im sure its coming...
Since it's new, it's OK in some ways. Most of the state inspection stations consider it to be a pain in the ass. You probably have to have a cat converter in place, but that seems about the extent of the visual. They just want it to be cool when they plug into that diagnostic port. We don't have any testing for '95 and older cars as far as I know, so that's still a good deal.
 

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Since it's new, it's OK in some ways. Most of the state inspection stations consider it to be a pain in the ass. You probably have to have a cat converter in place, but that seems about the extent of the visual. They just want it to be cool when they plug into that diagnostic port. We don't have any testing for '95 and older cars as far as I know, so that's still a good deal.
good thing all my cars newer than 95 are stock :cool:
 

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stock injectors, stock ecu, disconnect waste gate flapper or for external gates just remove the spring so you wont boost.. make sure both o2 sensors are hooked up and a catalytic converter is installed. drive it around for a day or 2 so the ecu has time to do its thing with checking the sensors, then go take the test. As long as no check engine lights are on it will pass.
 
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