Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
99 Civic Ex
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Vex here.
So, when i took my civic to get inspected, (it passed right away) but however when I got it back the guy said that theres an issues with the obd2, it wasn't connecting or something so, when i took it home I got my Obd2 scanner, It would turn on and act like its trying to connect, but eventually it said there was no link.
What would cause the issue? I dont think its a blown fuse due to the fact that everywhere i looked it said if it was a blown fuse the scanner wouldnt even turn on. Has anyone else had the no link/connection issue? and how could i fix it?
Thanks for the help
 

·
Registered
98 Civic HX D16Y5
Joined
·
167 Posts
I have not experienced your issue.
What I would do:
First, check All the chassis ground points for your wiring harness(interior/exterior).
Second, Inspect the wiring harness between the OBD2 port and ECU.
Third(while you are near the ECU), Check and Confirm proper ECU for your engine.

If you have no other issues with the car/engine electrically my guess would be it is in the ECU, so to check that just swap in another working matching ECU.

just my thoughts.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,819 Posts
My guess is you don't have the right ecu. Look at the side of the ecu for a label,there some numbers on the label. Tell us what the 3 middle number are.
 

·
Registered
99 Civic Ex
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I just looked at it, the only sticker that was on the ECU had this: 37820-P28-A02 and then under it it had 760-760671 towards the right side the sticker was ripped but it looked like it had an A..? IF that helps or means anything.
And just to add, my car is a 99 civic ex with a d16y8 vtec
 

·
BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
Joined
·
4,045 Posts
p28 is an odb1 ecu. so you have a jumper harness
 

·
Registered
Sloppy Jalopy
Joined
·
975 Posts
it means your car has an ecu from a 92-95 civic and is not going to work with an obd2 scan tool
 

·
BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
Joined
·
4,045 Posts
its using the ecu for a d16z6 to run the engine. the jumper is fine, but it wont pass the inspection since you cant read it like odb2.
p2p is the y8's ecu
 

·
Registered
99 Civic Ex
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thank you slo. I really appreciate the help.
Are there any ecus I could use as upgrades that would work fine (and could be read by obd2) or should i just go with the p2p?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,819 Posts
Is your motor stock or has it been moded? I'm trying to figure the reasoning for the p28 ecu being used. There's a few reasons as to why it was used and want to narrow it down.
 

·
Registered
99 Civic Ex
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Since I've bought it I havn't done anything anything to it. The previous owner(s) put a cold air intake on it, and it has a short throw shifter. Other than that I'm pretty sure its stock. I'm not sure the brands of either, but the filter of the air intake says spectre on it.
And as a side note, in the future I do want to mod it.. once i learn more.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,819 Posts
Ok. So like slo said a p2p ecu will work for you. You may have to add a 2nd o2 sensor and maybe a few other things for the p2p. Make sure to get a p2p from a 99-00 civic. A 96-98 p2p won't work.

The p28 ecu is good for tuning but will need to be chipped if not all ready done.
 

·
Registered
99 Civic Ex
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
With putting in the p2p, i've seen that the jumper harness doesn't need you to cut the wires or anything for them to fit, so does that mean all I have to do is pull the p28 and jumper harness and that the wires would plug directly into the p2p? If the previous owner(s) didnt ruin them.. i mean
And thanks again for all this info. Its greatly appreciated.
 

·
BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
Joined
·
4,045 Posts
yes, remove the p28 and jumper and plug the oem plugs into the correct spots. just remember what 2jz said
 

·
BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
Joined
·
4,045 Posts
no need to make another thread, just come back into here
 

·
Registered
same
Joined
·
1,881 Posts
just update this thread. no need to make another one. Also if the ecu has been chipped, look for a USB socket on the side of the ecu. if it has this then have a tuner check your tune as well. because if the ecu has been modified then other things have been as well. most guys chip after they have done serious tinkering with the engine. (new cam, throttle body, etc). also call the previous owner and ask what he did to the engine so you don't put the oem ecu on only to find out that it won't run correctly
 

·
Registered
99 Civic Ex
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Sorry it took a while to update this thread. Now that I have the right ecu in, its been idling better, alot more steady and doesn't want to shut off. However, now that i have the right ecu in, the CEL is on.
--In the searching I've done I've figured out what the codes mean: PO131, PO132: the 02 sensors. PO113: Intake air temp sensor. PO325: The knock sensor. And lastly P1337: crankshaft position sensor.
-- Throughout the searching though, I haven't found straight forward ways to fix these codes. I'm not experienced with fixing CEL codes, and the searching I've done hasn't helped my understanding to much.
-- The 02 sensors: PO131, PO132; I just replace them? If i understand correctly, there are 2, one by the headers and one by the cat? And i just replace them?
--The intake temp sensor: PO113; I believe is the sensor on the cold air intake pipe. I assume that because that sensor is disconnected and wont stay in. Is that right?
-- Knock sensor: PO325; I know its on the back of the motor, under the intake manifold. Is there an issue i need to fix that will stop this code. Or do I just replace the sensor?
-- Crankshaft position sensor: P1337; This is the one I'm most unsure about. In the searching I've done, I'm unsure where this sensor is at. The two places I've read it is at is under the cam gear, where I have to remove the timing belt and all that. The other place is in the distributor. Which said I'd have to replace the entire distributor just to fix this sensor. In one post i read it said that the location is commonly mistaken but its truly in the distributor. (is this correct?) Same as last code. Do i need to fix an issue to remove this code or do I just replace the sensor?
-- What steps do I take to fix these codes? I've searched but haven't found any clear how to's. Any help is welcome. I've though about just putting it in a shop to fix these issues. But at the same time I'd much rather learn how to and fix them on my own.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top