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Discussion Starter #1
Made a new thread and requested the old one be deleted as I'm sorta making progress and the old thread was just cluttered.

My old dizzy took a poop. Bought a new one. Car now won't start. At this point, I have spark on all 4, I've been through multiple brand new dizzys and one used one. I've verified my wiring is all good (plus it worked fine before the dizzy pooped itself). My mechanical timing is there. The dizzy lines up with cyl one at top dead center.

The car ALMOST wants to start, but won't and I'm absolutely stumped at this point. Where should I go next from here?

I'm also getting code 8 still for the TDC sensor.

Symptom(s):
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have you done any of the test light checks from the video or my previous post yet?
And determined, I just need to just get another whole new distributor rather than perform surgery, yet again.

I now have spark in all four cylinders, nice bright blue strong spark, now will start for all of a second or two tops then just dies.

It almost seems like the fuel pump primes fuel into where it needs to be, but the injectors won't keep it there after cranking, so it starts for a second then dies? If that makes sense, or is even possible. That's just what it SOUNDS like.

I've definitely made progress from the complete lack of anything being done besides it cranking and not having any spark at all.
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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511 Posts
If you feel it is no longer spark related, you can check to see if it is injector/fuel related by using flammable throttle body cleaner or brake clean.

Take your intake boot off the throttle body and see if you can keep it running with squirts of the spray. If you can, then you know its injector/fuel related and not spark, and you can proceed from there.
 

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89 EF 4wd sedan
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578 Posts
Also make sure it's not non-flammable brake clean. There are non flammable ones out there now which i learnt recently.

I can't remember but did i post the workshop flow chart procedure for diagnosing a code 8? have you done that?

I've had a mate who had a similar issue which turned out to be a burned circuit in the ECU, checking the flow chart would determine^
 

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'91 CRX DX, D15B (D15Z7), DX L3
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Are you opening the throttle at all when trying to start it? Is the idle screw closed too far? Is it flooded? (try cranking it for a little bit with the throttle wide open)
The sound of the belt beeper makes me think there's some other electrical gremlin to be slain - bad grounds or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also make sure it's not non-flammable brake clean. There are non flammable ones out there now which i learnt recently.

I can't remember but did i post the workshop flow chart procedure for diagnosing a code 8? have you done that?

I've had a mate who had a similar issue which turned out to be a burned circuit in the ECU, checking the flow chart would determine^
Was redoing wiring. It's all there it seems.

Car now runs (but in limp mode) with the CKP output wire disconnected. And with code 4. When connected, car will not start. Sounds like it wants to, but won't.

I'm so confused.
 
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