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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, First time on the site and looks like there is alot of great info on here. But I still am unable to find a solution to my problem.

Son and I have reinstalled our rebuilt engine into a 2000 DX manual. we did a y8 head on the y5 block. The car runs. however there seems to be some electrical gremlins that I can not figure out. I am currently running into a no start condition. It cranks, fuel flows, but no spark at the dizzy. I have checked the fuzes, I have checked the Igniter, I have checked the distributor sensors. For some reason the car starts and runs when it wants and doesn't when it doesn't. I drove the car yesterday, started 3-4 times, and went on multiple drives. Came back and now it won't start. It had been sitting for like 3 months prior as I was trying to chase wires, replace the ignition switch things like that for the same problem, then yesterday, boom it started.

My question. Is there something that would be causing the igniter not to fire even though I get power to the distributor plug when I turn on the ignition. Keep in mind I have checked the ignitor, the controller, and ohm tested the sensors in the distributor.

Side note, there are alot of other electrical problems with the car as well. (no dash (speedo, fuel, temp) gauges work, except tach, no power to the coolant switch at thermostat, no power to the VSS (speed sensor).

Im about to push this project right into the river.

Thank you for any help!
 

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93 Civic HB SI, 95 Civic HB CX
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Check all grounds, like every single one, especially ones from battery to chassis, and chassis to engine. Those short wire runs from valve cover to radiator support, or from frame rail to transmission are not for show, they are mandatory ground paths that provide the engine and its electronic components a good source of ground.

Also make sure the ground eyelet poking through the harness by the thermostat housing is attached to something metal on the engine, specifically the thermostat housing bolt its supposed to go to.

Strip back some of the loom/tape on that eyelet, and make sure the ground wires physically attached to the eyelet arent broken, either completely, or internal inside the wire insulation. If you see any sketchiness, cut the eyelet off, and crimp/solder a new one on to all those ground wires bundled together, and reinstall.

With that eyelet in good condition, its primary ground path back to the battery is through those small cables from valve cover and transmission, back to chassis!

It all goes full circle, you have to make sure all ground paths have good connectivity back to battery.

Also, check for corrosion in the ECU connectors/terminals. If there is any, clean properly and test terminals for integrity, apply some stabilant, and roll.
 

· Brokedick Millionaire
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cranking compression check....

Also check the known wiring issue and dead short on the back of the motor from wiring getting chaffed,,,,
 

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Sounds like intermittent main relay problem but I don't think they give much trouble on the EK,the 88-91 EF chassis was horrible about the solder joints breaking down and not making contact,I have been stranded several times before I found out and resoldered the contacts. Try another known good distributor if you're able to do so. I had a CRX that would do something similar and it ended up being the set screw on the distributor rotor had backed out. Coil/igniter might check out ok on a meter but crap out under load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, Ive checked all the grounds. Bought a new grounding kit, as well as a used (new to me) wire harness, reinstalled the new harness. Also bought a new main relay, the old relay was kicking on the fuel pump, so I dont think that is the problem. I have checked the no start condition between each of these "updates". Still nothing....is there a possibility that the ECU is pined improperly and not sending a signal to the Distributor telling it to fire? If so what pin/wire color would be sending the signal? I am getting fuel, just no spark at the distributor. I have also checked the resistance inside of the distributor for the TDC and other sensors. Also tried a new Distributor. Nothing seems to be helping. I have no idea what the flip is going on!? One day it just starts right up, then after 3 or 4 good starts and running for a day, nothing.
 

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Are you using any kind of harness adapter at the ECU (like OBD2B to OBD1 etc) . What ECU are you using? I had a sporadic bad connection for IACV due to one of the pins not making good contact when I swapped my intake. Some of those harness adapters from eBay,Amazon,etc are not the best quality . The fact that it starts sometimes points to an interment connection it's just narrowing it down to what. If you have the Helms manual I would start working from the dizzy to the ECU.
 

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93 Civic HB SI, 95 Civic HB CX
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Ok, Ive checked all the grounds. Bought a new grounding kit, as well as a used (new to me) wire harness, reinstalled the new harness. Also bought a new main relay, the old relay was kicking on the fuel pump, so I dont think that is the problem. I have checked the no start condition between each of these "updates". Still nothing....is there a possibility that the ECU is pined improperly and not sending a signal to the Distributor telling it to fire? If so what pin/wire color would be sending the signal? I am getting fuel, just no spark at the distributor. I have also checked the resistance inside of the distributor for the TDC and other sensors. Also tried a new Distributor. Nothing seems to be helping. I have no idea what the flip is going on!? One day it just starts right up, then after 3 or 4 good starts and running for a day, nothing.
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Check your MAP sensor. Seriously. Also check/verify its circuit integrity.

I'm not even joking, for some reason there have been a ton of MAP sensor failures lately around the forum causing intermittent stalling/no starts.

I'm still blaming solar flares. Might jump on the 5G paranoia bandwagon as well.

On my green civic, I could drive this car all day for about an hour, but after that it would randomly cut off on me/not start back up. No codes. Eventually got to the point it would cut off after about 15 mins. I wont go through all the chaos I went through to troubleshoot this issue, but I found it after getting frustrated and tapping on shit with a screwdriver/ratchet handle. I beat the crap out of the ECU, main relay, TPS, distributor, nothing. Baby love tap against the MAP sensor, the car would stall.

Replace MAP sensor, never happened again.

You can read about my trials and tribulations here:


no power to the VSS (speed sensor).
Did you ever solve this issue?

Just a side note, if you lose reference voltage to the sensors, they wont work. The sensor reference voltage is typically bussed internal to the ECU across more than one sensor. If you lose one, you can lose others. This would be a good/important issue to hunt/chase down if its not yet solved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did you ever solve this issue?

Just a side note, if you lose reference voltage to the sensors, they wont work. The sensor reference voltage is typically bussed internal to the ECU across more than one sensor. If you lose one, you can lose others. This would be a good/important issue to hunt/chase down if its not yet solved.

Appreciate it! I will look into this!!

View attachment 143367

Check your MAP sensor. Seriously. Also check/verify its circuit integrity.

I'm not even joking, for some reason there have been a ton of MAP sensor failures lately around the forum causing intermittent stalling/no starts.

I'm still blaming solar flares. Might jump on the 5G paranoia bandwagon as well.

On my green civic, I could drive this car all day for about an hour, but after that it would randomly cut off on me/not start back up. No codes. Eventually got to the point it would cut off after about 15 mins. I wont go through all the chaos I went through to troubleshoot this issue, but I found it after getting frustrated and tapping on shit with a screwdriver/ratchet handle. I beat the crap out of the ECU, main relay, TPS, distributor, nothing. Baby love tap against the MAP sensor, the car would stall.

Replace MAP sensor, never happened again.

You can read about my trials and tribulations here:

Im gonna have to look up how to test that joker and see if that is causing a problem.
 
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