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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a 95 civic dx d16y8 swap.. I've been driving it for a year and half and no problem. Last night I used it to jump my truck and was all fine. Few hours later went to leave, opened the door dome light came on, put the key in and turned one click all dash lights came on, went to start it and everything shutoff, now none of the lights work, can't hear anything click when I turn the key..

I checked all the fuses and they're all good, changed the 80amp battery fuse and 50amp ig fuse, battery I just bought last year and just tried jumping it and jumper cables sparked so it's got juice, and battery terminals are not corroded at all.. I need help. I've tried searching and didn't really come up with anything. I need this fixed ASAP because this is my only car.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok thank you I've spent the last hour searching an never saw anything about it.. I knew I'd take some sh*t but I knew I would get a quick answer. Thanks again
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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Ok thank you I've spent the last hour searching an never saw anything about it.. I knew I'd take some sh*t but I knew I would get a quick answer. Thanks again
I was going to give you some shit about not searching, but Ill let you slide this time
 

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Ok I just got a new relay and it didn't do anything.. Do you have any other suggestions that I could try? Is there anyway to test the battery and know for sure it's good without taking it somewhere? I don't see why the battery would just stop producing power in a split second though.. Also I read the posts on the link you gave and he said his hazards were still working, mine are not. I don't know if that counts for anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry should've specified "any way to test battery without a multimeter" because I dont have one
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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get a test light and check the fuses in the under hood box. you may have cooked something and just haven't noticed. also, try and jump the starter and see if it makes an attempt.
also, check all grounds
 

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Sorry should've specified "any way to test battery without a multimeter" because I dont have one
no, your stuck taking it somewhere, what temp is it? that could be a factor as well. low volts below freezing isnt going to cut it. autometer volt gauge $45 would help at a time like this
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok thanks guys for the suggestions.. I borrowed a buddy's voltage meter and starting working my way from the battery on up and turns out when the previous owner relocated the battery they put in a box to connect the large cable to the stock cable without splicing it and one wire had come loose just barely enough to not get a solid connection. Tightened that down and everything came back. I've learned my lesson, I will be investing in a voltage meter for myself and always check the little shit.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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Ok thanks guys for the suggestions.. I borrowed a buddy's voltage meter and starting working my way from the battery on up and turns out when the previous owner relocated the battery they put in a box to connect the large cable to the stock cable without splicing it and one wire had come loose just barely enough to not get a solid connection. Tightened that down and everything came back. I've learned my lesson, I will be investing in a voltage meter for myself and always check the little shit.
if I were you, Id redo the wiring.

I went to home depot and got some 2guage wiring. and did this


battery to fuse box. battery to ground. and battery to starter. heat shrink and crimps



starter wire



alternator to battery
 

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Welding shop has better wire. And go 0 gauge if you can. Especially if you are running from the trunk. I redid the big 3 upgrade with 2/0 gauge and no issues. True high strand oxygen free copper. Also clean your grounds and replace all your engine grounds with bigger wire. Trans to body, head to body etc. If you have an I'm ground do that as well. 4 Guage is good size for these. Or 2 gauge for the trans ground. I have 10 gauge to p/s pump. 4 gauge from p/s to body. 2/0 from trans to battery 4 gauge from batt to body per original layout on my accord. Just redid all the originals in bigger sizes.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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welding shops sell wire?
 

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Yes they do. It's industrial ground wire for their welding machines. Nice stuff too.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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hmmm. good info to know. I used this stuff because my car had a hard time starting. threw the big shit at it, and never had a problem sense. the industrial stuff, is it still or flexible? may be a plan for the amp wiring
 

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hmmm. good info to know. I used this stuff because my car had a hard time starting. threw the big shit at it, and never had a problem sense. the industrial stuff, is it still or flexible? may be a plan for the amp wiring
Real good for amp wiring. Just get to fresh metal for your grounds. Depending on what you amp calls for and the distance. Minimum 4 gauge.
Plus fresh wiring is always a good thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Alright I agree couldn't be a bad idea to redo all wiring.. Would all the new wires around the heat of the motor be ok without the flexible plastic tubing around it or be smart to get some of that? I know the wiring harness is all wrapped in it. Just curious.
 

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Alright I agree couldn't be a bad idea to redo all wiring.. Would all the new wires around the heat of the motor be ok without the flexible plastic tubing around it or be smart to get some of that? I know the wiring harness is all wrapped in it. Just curious.
Not all the wires are covered. My grounds weren't. They should be fine but you can if you want to.
 
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