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alright so ill start with some minaor backround. ive had my civic si 2 years now its a canadian model so it came with the d16y8 with auto tranny. over the past two years i ahve been contmplating which route to go to give me more power namely for passing on the highway and the occasional spurt in town when i dont want to get left behind.

i have decided against turbo or sc due to high start up costs and stress it is ALWAYS putting on the motor.
that leaves me with the nos. now i know most of you will tell me to swap or something of the like and im not interested, this is my DD and i just want a lil more fun when i need it.

so i start with a few questians
1- i hear all over zex is the best kit and to get the accessory package which i plan on. as well as using an rpm window switch and master kill switch. after that im undecided between wot switch (worried about shooting durring down shift if i punch it) or just a steering wheel button. so what are peoples oppinions here?

2-im going to start off with just a 35 shot ive heard many people say that its safe on a stock motor. i do plan on getting a shift kit for my car to help save the trans as well. it is a semi high millage motor but well cared for rarely bagged at nearly 200k. if i tranny flush, replace fuel pump with 255, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and replace timing belt, and adj cam gear. is there anything else i should upgrade before the nitrous i might be forgetting?

3- will i need engine management programing on a 35 shot or am i ok to wait till i start increasing the shot before needing engine management?
 

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been reading on here a long time but this is my first real post i really look forward to hearing from anyone who has already used nitrous on an automatic before. thanks for all replys
 

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Lol....
Do some more homework.
A turbo only puts "stress" on a motor when entering boost pressure. In fact a turbo lets the motor work less.

Also spray is more for track then normal day to day driving.

So research and try again.
A small turbo or supercharger is what your wanting.


Plus when you get a nos you get wet so the pistons n vavles dont burn.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ive been reseaching and mulling the options over for two years as i said i have ALREADY decided AGAINST turbo or sc. i am going nitrous. its a DD car but the nitrous is NOT for day to day use. its purpose is passing on single lane highways(so i dont have to fall back 300feet just to floor it and then pass.) or if i just feel like i need a lil extra power if im tryin to show someone up. and thank you for not telling me to go manual swap.

coult you extrapolate on the wet shot protecting your valves and pistons since in both cases your using the same nitrous. my understanding of the different shots were:
wet: nitrous and the additional gassoline are both sprayed from the same injector AFTER the intake sensor
dry: nitrous is injected PRIOR to the intake sensor so that the computer automatically adds the proper amount of fuel through your main fuel injectors (abviously has caps based on your fuel injectors)

not trying to be rude or shut you out of the convo, i thouroghly appreciate everyones inpuut, but i already know which way im going i just want to make sure im doing it safely and right. i havent purchsed anything yet but i will have the funds to shortly. baisically i was most interested in the answeres to the questions i posted at the beggining of the thread or for any info i didnt put up there someone may think to be important. and yeas i know i need colder sparkplugs. should i just go one step or two steps?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
working on a custom bent CAI as we speak its just about ready for install just waiting on the filter and trying to find a local parts source for a rubber gromet the right size for my intake sensor.

exhuast is already a stright pipe with just a no name silencer tip.

as for the rims i already replaced the steelies with an a lightweight aluminum set with rubber and full presure each only weighs MAYBE half of what the stocks did
 

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Ecu will not correct for the extra oxygen. Your run lean and melt a valve or piston. Also you shouodbt be spraying till higher rpms i.e. 4k and higher. Trist me.
A dry shot is just nitrous
Whole a wet shot also injects fuel to balance out the mix.

Also you must retard you timing when ever the spray is use.
Which is y u need a tune, or back the dizzy a few degs. Nut then your car will be slower day to day.

As said there is alot of research you need to do.
 

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Click sig.

But get you a push button from napa and install it on the dead pedal, spray when needed.

I'm going to refrain from anything negative about this. Just don't be upset and mad when you fuck your transmission or engine(since high mileage) up.
 

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My nitrous set up consisted of the Zex wet kit, 55-65-75 shots, msd window switch, master disarming/arming switch (from kit), WOT switch (from kit), and dash mounted pressure gauge. It worked great in my opinion. I am actually wanting to sell it since I went turbo 6 months ago!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks for clarification of the ecu NOT making corrections i was under the impression it would on smaller shots. is this still true with the apexi power fc engine manegement unit this is the one im planning on running. i think im leaning towards the wet kit have been for a whille, dry just seemed easyer install not having to tap the feul line, so i was considering it. i would NEVER even consider hitting the spray till it had been properly tuned unfortunately the apexi authorized tuner is 3 hours away but worth the trip i think.

2drz6 thanks for the direction to your build. like i said i only plan on a 35 shot at first id build up the motor and trans more before increasing it. which size shot where you runnin when you blew your botom end? i read you blew it with a 60 shot retarted 2 degres yourself that corect? on a side note i guess i should have stated i had the torque converter replaced about 9500 kms ago now (got no clue about miles for you americans)

as for safety features i planned on having an RPM window switch as to control that the spray couldnt shoot out of range even if floored and cut out at vtec (or just before i read that is best to do any opinions)
 

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My nitrous set up consisted of the Zex wet kit, 55-65-75 shots, msd window switch, master disarming/arming switch (from kit), WOT switch (from kit), and dash mounted pressure gauge. It worked great in my opinion. I am actually wanting to sell it since I went turbo 6 months ago!
that i might be very interested in but i do live in canada and to be honest i typycally prefer buying new from autorized dealers. but i will keep that in mind thank you
 

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Window switch and wot switch are great.
I ran a zex dry 50shot back in the day. There setup is pretty easy.
But yes go 100% with the wet.
Also dont forget the bottle is only good for a few runs, then ut has to be refill. And you must use 91 or higher octane.
Im not to sure about the apxei fc since i never messed with them.
But if its tune able then it will work. But tuning for spray is different from na or boost.
Reason being, na , sc and boost are always there while spray isnt. So you would have to be able to switch the nitous tune on when spraying and off when not.
Thats y most use s controllable timing retarder. Msd btm.
 

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Turbo= safer for a noob, better fuel mpg, just power when you want it your not always in boost and get I built my Lil 8psi kit for under a grand so not very expensive!!
 

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My brother sprayed the mains out of his GSR running nitrous in a bag (Had a 100 shot, only got about 4 hours of abuse.)
I've run dry 75 shots before with no problems on my LS.

EDIT I wouldn't spray the y8 with an auto.
 

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Gotta remember that nitrous is around 30-35% oxygen and the atmosphere is 20-21%, so you are instantly leaning out your engine. Under wot conditions the computer can't 'tell' if you need more fuel because it is in open loop (not taking into account o2 feedback). Also, nitrous boils ~ -125*f, so it is very cold (dur!) When it changes from 1000psi to ~14.7psi.... that cruises past your intake temp sensor and can cause your engine to advance the timing a bit... not good.
if you run ~50hp shot, make sure it is a wet kit. Also find a step or two colder copper-core spark plugs ( no platinum as they tend to retain a ton of heat in the electrode and can pre-ignite nitrous). Wot and window switches for nitrous n00bs.....
....but turboing is better, much more cost efficient.
 

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Gotta remember that nitrous is around 30-35% oxygen and the atmosphere is 20-21%, so you are instantly leaning out your engine. Under wot conditions the computer can't 'tell' if you need more fuel because it is in open loop (not taking into account o2 feedback). Also, nitrous boils ~ -125*f, so it is very cold (dur!) When it changes from 1000psi to ~14.7psi.... that cruises past your intake temp sensor and can cause your engine to advance the timing a bit... not good.
if you run ~50hp shot, make sure it is a wet kit. Also find a step or two colder copper-core spark plugs ( no platinum as they tend to retain a ton of heat in the electrode and can pre-ignite nitrous). Wot and window switches for nitrous n00bs.....
....but turboing is better, much more cost efficient.
This guy^ great first post!!
 

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Yes I was running a 60 shot, shit happens, now that I think about it I sprayed below 3k. She didn't like that, so she spun a bearing.

All this talk about about window switches...... Window switches are for pussies lol. I put my go button on the dead pedal so I could stop spraying when it was time to shift. For your application a window switch will be great.

I love nitrous and it has it pros and cons like anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well of course. You have the same issues under a turbo's boost if your running to high of a pressure on stock or without a proper tune. On that note a thought just popped in should I get head studs?
 

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Another question is how deep your pockets are, and how much you are willing to spend.

I'm a total noob to nitrous, but I researched a bunch lately.

Wet kit- As you know, you have the nitrous line/solenoid & the fuel line(taped off your cars fuel line somewhere)/solenoid-both lines connected to a nozzle that sits in your intake. you can change fuel & nitrous jets to change the amounts going in your engine. (and you still need a way to adjust your ignition)

TWO types of dry kits.

old school one- nitrous nozzle sits in intake. when you hit the nitrous, the system raises your cars fuel pressure(thru the cars fuel pressure regulator)-causing more fuel to be sprayed by your injectors. Doesn't really seem like a precise system, which is why people say stay away.(same ignition problem)

New school dry system- nitrous nozzle sits in intake. You modify your stock ECU, with something like NeptuneRTP. this is like another computer thats added into the ECU, allowing you to have total control of EVERYTHING thats going on in your ecu. I mean everything. You can also store 3 separate, totally independent, tunes-each tune with two separate fuel and ignition maps. all of these you can switch, on the fly, either with switches, or even automatically thru the computer. (like telling the computer to switch fuel and ignition maps, when my throttle is greater than 80%, I'm between 3000-7500rpm, and the AC button is pushed on my dash. I also tell it to activate my nitrous solenoid thru one of my ecu's extra outputs honda left in there, when all these conditions are met.)

This system you have to tune your fuel and ignition maps(your tuner will, on a dyno, with his equipment monitoring your AFR's) for nitrous- its very precise way of fueling(and ignition). But its expensive, and overkill for a small shot of nitrous. maybe if you were considering a bigger shot, or turbo later on, it might be worth it.


I just ordered a NX Express dry efi kit.(I have neptune/turbo/meth) More expensive than ZEX, but I think its better stuff. (they also emailed me right back, every time, with answers/advice when I asked them a few questions.) check out their web sight.

Oh, get a automatic bottle heater!
 
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