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1995 Civic hatch
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3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, ive come to terms with i hate the ass a d15b7 has, cant stand it. Has about 2,200 miles on it since i rebuild it top to bottom. Now i guess im gonna have to tear it back apart to replace everything with some good stuff. Now with that being said, I want/need 350-375 to the wheels out of my itty bitty EG hatch. I know the essentials, wally 255, dsm 450cc with resistor box, but when it comes to the compression ratio i want, what would you guys recommend. i was told by few that 8.5.1 would be nice, but im also still learning about the turbo set up, i want it to spool quick, sound good, be reliable and be pretty nuts out the gate and up in the gears. a fifth downshift to fourth and smash would be a get up and go, i want it to respond quick and surprise some people. gimme a shout.
 

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Premium Member
2005 Legacy GT
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1,754 Posts
How good is your tuner?

Higher compression means you need less boost to reach your power goals, you will have better response out of boost, but you have a smaller margin of error.

I flogged a 10.4:1 D15b7/z6 mini me for 10K miles before the tired old rings decided I needed to get a bottom end built (okay really that was just an excuse it was realistically fine for a while).

Check out my build thread in my sig to see the (unfortunately abruptly halted) quest for a Honda with torque.

You might want to check into twin scroll options, I was going to go that route, and several members here have had good luck with the twin scroll 16Gs off of Evos ... you will have to have the manifold custom built though.
 

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5,885 Posts
you are new to boost.

why do you think 350whp is right for you? that requires 10 grand plus into the car to properly support that level of power.

find a shorter geared transmission, and shoot for a very mild 150-200whp and go from there.


a short geared properly spooling 200whp build will destroy a 300+whp setup if its got too darn big of a turbo to get to 300+whp


optimize your base foundation. then bother with boost.

start with the transmission. That will cure your urges for power for quite awhile while you save up for a proper boost build
 

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Premium Member
2005 Legacy GT
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1,754 Posts
Not to try to discourage you, but I agree with mattliston. My car was making 180whp/150wtq and it was a blast. With the tiny turbo on there ... there was no noticeable boost lag. The power band was incredibly smooth and it behaved like a bigger N/A engine.

300+ is kissing the limits of what even a well appointed FWD car can handle as far as usable power (outside of a straight line). Don't get me wrong I love my Hondas, but FWD does have it's limitations.


What are your plans for the car?

To get the response you are going for (and to not have it be a pig when it drops out of boost) I'd consider upping your target static compression at least a full point, and I'd look to up the displacement. On that note displacement will affect spool far more than compression will. If you browse through my build thread you'll see that when I swapped from the 1.5L ~10.4 CR bottom end ... to the 1.7L ~9.4 CR bottom end. My turbo reached capacity much quicker (and also choked out much earlier as a result).
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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4,471 Posts
boosting a b7? lulz. do moar searching
 

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ej8
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6,365 Posts
Build a z6 motor. Fo autowork are still selling kits i believe.
Then build a turbo kit.
Lose the dsm injectors. Why use old tech. Get some IN or some thing else.

Once you got everything swap put thr b7 and in the turbo z6.

Also for that power level you need to work on the sup, wheelz and tires.
Willing to bet you got a ton of okd bushings.
 

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Retired From Hondas
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2,796 Posts
Keep it simple and plan your build. I know your in a rush to get more power but this leads to costly mistakes.

what fuel do you plan on using is the main question.

You picked a power goal (unrealistic) and if Im reading this right, you have an engine with 2k miles on it. So its a fresh engine. Im hoping it has a new clutch and fly.


The basic super 60 kit from Autoworks wont get you neer your 350, but for yuor tiny 1.5L, youll be fine with what that kit puts out.

550cc injectors, tuning kit, wideband, gauges, crankcase vent, and probably a few odds and ends im leaving out is all you need. Plus a good tune from a reputable tuner.


Xenocron.com
go-autoworks.com
prosport.com


those sites should have everything you need.
But keep it simple and youll be rewarded with boosting enjoyment. More boost = mo' money/mo' problems

Edit: the stock compression should be fine for your needs if you rebuilt it with oem specs. Might want to swap out rod bolts with ARP.

If they are low torque, they can swap right out. If they are high torque 60lbs +, then the rods should be sized for ARP clamping force.
your going to have to take off the pan anyways for the drain. So spend the 40 bucks for new ARP bolts.

 

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93 4 DOOR
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3 Posts
If you have to have the power you are talking about. Just do a Vitara build. Its a good build for your 1st time. The better option is what guys above are saying. Go with a z6 motor. Set it to around 200whp with a small turbo. You will have a blast and be pretty safe and reliable.
 

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1995 Civic hatch
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3 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
im not really sure how to answer some of the things i was asked, i appreciate the feedback. yeah the HP range was a little unrealistic, and everyone and their brother has the z6 set up, if i wanted to go vtec id obd2 swap with a y8 id like to keep everything the same with the b7 minus the internals, the 450 dsm's i have will be plenty for what im actually wanting to do, the fact of the matter is, im sick of downshifting and it doing nothing but getting stupid loud, when it comes to a shorter geared trans, what trans code would that be, and as far as a turbo kit, i wish i had the 1200 bucks to spend on goautoworks, that kit is perfect. but again like most people i gotta lot of other stuff to pay for before i go dropping tons of money into a single cam, trying to stick with some basic stuff. Maybe s300 ive read about crome and i dig the idea behind it all, i know i need a wide band and my gauges and stuff like that, this is a simple little daily i want boosted and if i get on the interstate i dont want it to be a slouch, where i live theres more curves and mountains than most other places, so when i do go on drives and i hit a mountain id like to be able to drive it instead of creep up the thing in 2nd gear. 3rd if i get a good start. everyone knows the b7 has zero ass. and im trying to change that, the car will be parked for winter so ill have time to acrue the money i need to do it and do it right.
 

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97 honda coupe
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7,611 Posts
you are new to boost.

why do you think 350whp is right for you? that requires 10 grand plus into the car to properly support that level of power.

find a shorter geared transmission, and shoot for a very mild 150-200whp and go from there.


a short geared properly spooling 200whp build will destroy a 300+whp setup if its got too darn big of a turbo to get to 300+whp


optimize your base foundation. then bother with boost.

start with the transmission. That will cure your urges for power for quite awhile while you save up for a proper boost build
i would agree with this, and while boiling the tires on the freeway in 4th is fun its not very practical when it comes on at 6k rpm's. i would suggest doing what matty's saying.

 

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Premium Member
2005 Legacy GT
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1,754 Posts
Sounds like you have a similar goal to what I was building ... except maybe no autocross. You can do it on the cheap, it just takes patience and stockpiling of parts until you're ready to go.

Consider a stroker D16 perhaps? If you want to do something a little different. I ran mine N/A for quite some time after it ate my tiny turbo (and before it was stolen) and it was still loads of fun.

The shorter geared transmissions you are looking for will be from either (a) 92 - 95 Civic EX, (b) 92 - 95 Civic Si, or (c) 96 - 00 Civic Ex ... IIRC. I liked my 92 - 95 EX transmission ... it has a longer 5th than the Si which is nice on the highway. I can't comment on the one that normally mates to the y8. Any of those will change the character of the car pretty drastically.
 

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Premium Member
93 4 DOOR
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3 Posts
The 1st thing i put a turbo on was my d15b7. It lasted about 10k before spinning a bearing. I searched for a entire summer gathering used parts from people. I ended up using half, the other half is taking up space. When you start collecting parts just take your time. I got excited and spent money on used items that should have been bought new. Even when doing a "Really" cheap kit.
 

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93 4 DOOR
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I am building a true d15b7 build. Rods are hard to find. Hungarian rod are the only ones i could find. "Laszlo" I think thats how you spell it. Search his name to find the rods. Im using vitara pistons still. That should help you with the bottom end. Im using a z6 head. So i cant help you there.
 

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Retired From Hondas
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2,796 Posts
^^^

Why are you having him change pistons when the engine was just rebuilt? Makes no sense.

And the Vitara pistons put the compression so low that its not practical for street use.
 

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93 4 DOOR
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This sentence is why i did my rec. of pistons. " Now i guess im gonna have to tear it back apart to replace everything with some good stuff" in his 1st post. I seen no issue with the low compression. He used the word "reliable". They are. Ive driven this kind of set up on a z6. It did great.
 

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1995 Civic hatch
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Discussion Starter #16
I really appreciate all this feedback guys. And i wouldn't mind running an autocross track, hell ant track would be fun honestly, and i wanna build my hatch to be capable of it all, whether that be on the strip or the track. thats kind of what im doing now is stock piling stuff my buddies no longer need.
 

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Premium Member
93 4 DOOR
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3 Posts
My auto x set up was the stock z6 with a .42/.48 turbo on 10psi. You may want to look at that turbo size. That set up was more fun than driving a 300whp civic. Nothing like being able to go flat out on a course in 2nd gear and not have the tires blow away due to power.
 
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