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Discussion Starter #1
I had a leaky stat housing, so I pulled the old (factory) thermostat and rubber out and replaced it with a new rubber and stat while I was in there. It is a Stant thermo. Now I'm overheating and my elec fan does not kick on either.

I don't even know if the stat is opening. I guess the lower hose would be cool if it's not? Would a stat not opening not allow the fan to kick on?
 

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If your not reporting a high temp the fan would not come on. Did you plug your wires back in correctly? Check connections to thermostat.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It seems to be plugged in fine.... I guess the stat is not opening. $#$%##$

I'm going to heat it up and see if that hose gets hot or not.
 

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Ok, the stat is opening... the lower hose gets hot. Good sign. I added more coolant... I think I was low.

How did u bleed the coolant?
I didn't...... what's a good way to do that? I usually just squeeze the hoses to get some air bubbles out and then start it with the cap off.

I just filled the radiator up more... I think that was the problem... not enough coolant.
 

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Problem solved...coolant was low and needed bleeding.

The flaw in the system is that if there is a bubble and/or stat failure, the fan sensor will never be activated.

Has anyone wired a direct toggle for the fan? I think I'm going to do that in case of an emergency.
 

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I have it because the car came with it and I am lazy. I pretty much run it after the car is running for a few minutes. Seems like I might be better served if I took the fan switch out and put the OEM system back in so I don't have to remember to turn it on. Or if my wife drives my car for some ungodly reason, I don't have to worry about giving her the run down.
 

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Problem solved...coolant was low and needed bleeding.

The flaw in the system is that if there is a bubble and/or stat failure, the fan sensor will never be activated.

Has anyone wired a direct toggle for the fan? I think I'm going to do that in case of an emergency.
If OBD1 ground A12 at the ECU and the fan will come on.
 

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Problem solved...coolant was low and needed bleeding.

The flaw in the system is that if there is a bubble and/or stat failure, the fan sensor will never be activated.

Has anyone wired a direct toggle for the fan? I think I'm going to do that in case of an emergency.
The flaw in the system was improper bleeding.

No true offense, but it's not a flaw. If the thermostat were stuck, the fan would still come on, albeit not until too late, but you would have a problem anyway; The thermostat is stuck. Theoretically, unless the cooling system has been open for service, there shouldn't be any incalculable air in the system.

If you want, ground that wire that comes off the switch and the fan will be on any time the ignition is on (at least, that's what the wiring diagram I have access to right now is telling me). However, the system was designed as it was for a reason. If you really want to monitor your engine's coolant temp, install and aftermarket sensor and gauge on the upper hose as it comes OUT of the engine instead of back in.
 

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Bleeding the system is pretty important, a lot of modern cars put resevoir tanks up higher than the rest of the coolant system to avoid this very issue, alternatively there is sometimes a breather screw (usually uses a 3/8 drive rachet) located on the top of the thermostat housing.
Our Hondas (well my 90 civic hatch) radiator filler is actually the highest point anyway, so turning the heater on and giving the top hose a soft squeeze should be quite sufficient.
I'm in the middle of putting my car back together, and since I've got it running, I haven't wired the fans back up yet and it still doesn't overheat (and I live in sunny Queensland, Australia. Not exactly know for its cool climate).
Guess they do things right at the old Honda factory! Lol.
 

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Problem solved...coolant was low and needed bleeding.

The flaw in the system is that if there is a bubble and/or stat failure, the fan sensor will never be activated.

Has anyone wired a direct toggle for the fan? I think I'm going to do that in case of an emergency.
98, so its ODBII

A27, green wire
 
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