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Civic/92Achieva H.O.
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
New Remote turbo (1 year and going)

Last month on the 19th, i was chatting with my friend about the squires turbo setup, STSTURBO.com, and i told him that i wanted to put a setup like this on my car and i said that i would, so he says how long would it take to get all the stuff and put it to use, i said six months so he put it to a calender and said well you got six months, get started, next day i found a Srt 4 turbo for $60, it was in perfect condition, the built in bov was torn and worn, the guy replaced the whole thing without any diagnose's. This is a TD04LR turbo, pretty much the only one of its kind, its a left rotation and the turbine snail is part of the cast exhaust manifold, so that needed to come off.
 

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FAMILY MEMBER #316
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good luck


seems like a lot of work
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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I hate to be a hater but that was/is pointless. Should have just found a small T3.
 

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Civic/92Achieva H.O.
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Discussion Starter #7
So since i didn't use the manifold, i have no internal wastegate but the whole setup i got came with a stage two w/g actuator which i wound up selling for $75 and bought a bov adapter for 5 bucks, so i got over 300 dollars worth of stuff for pretty much nothin but some driving and i got $10 back in my pocket. Also got alot of stuff off craigslist spurr of the moment, Vortec 12:1 FMU $60 , Nology Hotwires capacitor type $60, ported and polished intake $30, 2in cat $60, catback exhaust $29 plus labor welding, megan racing AFPR $35 brand new, 4-2-1 header $25, needed welding. oil filter sandwhich $35, 2 a/n steel braded line, 8foot steel brake line a/n oil in and out of turbo adapters, about $80, Tilton 12v oil circulation pump $128 good used.
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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Dude don't use an FMU.
 

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Civic/92Achieva H.O.
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Heres some more parts i recently gathered, Some may hate, some may congradulate, Im the guy that will build what is said to be impossible or too much work and eventualy whoops ass on the reguler everyday crap. this may not turn the most horse power but ive spent less than 500 and doin it my way, I dont like legos, i make everything of mine different/custom/unique with positive results.

Why no FMU?
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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Dude you have no clue wtf you're doing. Does that sandwich plate adapter have the correct threads for a honda block? The FMU and missing link are garbage. And that air fuel ratio gauge is pointless.
 

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Civic/92Achieva H.O.
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Your funny, yeah the spindle matches the honda, I already have A/n to steel braided hose to brake line back to steel braid to a/n to turb and turbo oil out 90 degree bend to the tilton pump, all this shit was realy cheap and easy to get a hold of, i know the gauge sucks but it was free.

And WTF do you think im doin here, getting advice and seeing whats been done, I know my setup will work, may not be realy badass at first but i will do what it takes to get where i want it, I Have alot of tricks up my sleeve, and i think out of the box. or should i say The engine Bay instead, LOL.

most honda kits come with a fmu and so do almost every supercharger kit with the proper valves it can be tuned in manualy just fine, I plan on running only 5-7 psi and with the travel of the charge pipe to the front in 2inch 16gauge thin wall aluminum pipe to a small fmic to t/b i will achieve almost 100% cooling eficiency.
 

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most honda kits come with a fmu
No, they don't actually. Mindless is giving great advice when he said don't use an FMU/check valve setup.

Most people that actually run the JRSC ditch the FMU that it comes with, I've had several come thru here.

You can't tune in a set FMU, only the Begi if I remember correctly.

I plan on running only 5-7 psi and with the travel of the charge pipe to the front in 2inch 16gauge thin wall aluminum pipe to a small fmic to t/b i will achieve almost 100% cooling eficiency.
What are you basing this off of??
 

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My 91 Crx Hf
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sts turbo's are the shit, theres a newer GTO with one wondering around raleigh. But thats on a big ole v8, so idk about on a y8, but good luck and we need 100000000 pictures and a video or two!
 

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Civic/92Achieva H.O.
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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the support, For the fmu it is a 12:1 and i plan on using a manual boost controller and a small bypass needle valve incase its too rich, so i can use the boost controller to allow the fmu to be tuned to a lower ratio in the rise and if thats not accurate enough i plan on putting a small needle valve between the in and out to allow some bypass. It can be tuned quite nicely this way.
 

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Hi hater!
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What are you basing this off of??
Some shit that he has thought up in his head. Now dont get me wrong Im not hating and your thinking outside the box thats fine but it has been done for one. And you are asking for advice if you think that an FMU is gonna do you by all means enjoy your time bomb. I think with the length of the piping that your gonna have to run there is gonna be a good bit of pressure drop. But hey have fun if it works for you then fine by me.
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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What are you basing this off of??
I was wondering the same thing.

Thanks for the support, For the fmu it is a 12:1 and i plan on using a manual boost controller and a small bypass needle valve incase its too rich, so i can use the boost controller to allow the fmu to be tuned to a lower ratio in the rise and if thats not accurate enough i plan on putting a small needle valve between the in and out to allow some bypass. It can be tuned quite nicely this way.
You said you're here for advice but when someone offers some you don't listen. So listen up Copernicus and let me break it down for you. An FMU, or fo r the more politically correct among us, mechanical fuel management, is the absolute wrong way to do things. There is no fine tuning the fuel enrichment, as greg said. The FMU assumes a linear relationship between boost/fuel. If things were this easy and if turbo setups didn't need fine tuning then there would be no need for hondata, crome, neptune, uberdata, turboedit, BRE, and a various number of other types of tuning software. At 5-7 psi I would be willing to bet that your stock injectors are going to be at or near 100% duty cycle which is not safe. At lets not even talk about timing adjustment because there is none with an FMU.

And your air fuel ratio gauge is useless. IDGAF if someone paid you to take it, you're wasting your time with it unless you just like looking at pretty lights. So before you waste anymore of our time or yours go grab a beer or two, get very familiar with the stickies at the top of the page, and do some research.
 

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Civic/92Achieva H.O.
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yeah im well aware of the presure drop and lag, but this is a 16/15g turbo, one of the most efficient, but its still a stock motor tunned in realy nicely N/A, She's pretty f*ck'n quick right now, so the turbo is like my nos not a dependent.

I would love to get it tunned prof. I dont have alot of money to throw down just yet, if im lookin to run about 7psi with low intake temps what should i be lookin to invest into, Chip/ ....CC injectors/ Chrome? I am listening, just a little deffensive when some one goes a little over board on their remarks. but im all ears. and if you have any questions just ask.
 

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just do yourself a GIANT favor and ditch that fmu, I would hate to see all that hard work you will be doing end due to detonation my friend.... chipped ecu is what you wanna do.... it may cost a little more now but in the END... it will cost a lot less... :TU:
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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I would love to get it tunned prof. I dont have alot of money to throw down just yet, if im lookin to run about 7psi with low intake temps what should i be lookin to invest into, Chip/ ....CC injectors/ Chrome? I am listening, just a little deffensive when some one goes a little over board on their remarks. but im all ears. and if you have any questions just ask.
I didn't go overboard. But when you come on here spouting off like you know what you're talking about then mention an FMU you lose all credibility instantly.

If you don't have a lot of money for the setup what do you think is more expensive: building the setup the cheap way and possibly blowing your motor, or building it the right way and not having to worry about it. Speaking from personal experience, I had to replace a lot of shit on my setup because I cut corners the first time around. It's easier to do it right the first time; it may cost slightly more but it's worth it plus you can still find used parts to help cushion the impact on the wallet.

As far as your other questions, I'm not holding your hand. Go do some research, you'll learn more that way.
 
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