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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
Got the D17 coils in from Burton Racing.
Tool Engineering Gas Wood Jig grinder


Will be ready probably next weekend to do the COP install on Aero, but first need to build this bracket out of some aluminum flat stock since Burton doesn't have these in stock anymore and no one on ebay is selling:


Decided against doing the D17 valve covers, since my existing covers already have breather AN fittings welded in, and its just a lot more work whereas I can quickly fab some aluminum flatstock up to accomplish these brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #165 ·
Hoping you can make H Day and I can check this thing out
Just got the tentative OK from the wife to go up for a day lmao, so its looking likely!

Never been to an HDay event before, surely the literal event parking lot would basically be a car show with all the Hondas that will be there lol.

Looking at ticket prices, you either have to buy the weekend, or Sunday. Are the final races on the Sunday? I wouldn't mind driving up early Sunday, spending the day, then heading back! Its about 5 hours for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
What's the date for that? Maybe he brings company along.........
I'm tentative for that Sunday the 10th. Event is April 9th and 10th.

If I get both Grey and Aero functional, we'd have to bring both lol.

Or might you bring the wagon?
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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I'm tentative for that Sunday the 10th. Event is April 9th and 10th.

If I get both Grey and Aero functional, we'd have to bring both lol.

Or might you bring the wagon?

I can drive one of yours or I can drive mine. Doesn't matter to me lol. Or maybe we have a caravan with more than a few cars going.
 

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Fuck yeah! I’ll be there on Sunday. If you want Saturday tickets you’ll need to buy for both days. I don’t know why they do it that way but whatever. Saturday is all the qualifiers and Sunday is eliminations and the judged car show. The parking area is usually full of Hondas, some clean and some clapped out. I’m planning to do Classic Hondas on the Dragon as well, since I’ve never been.
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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Fuck yeah! I’ll be there on Sunday. If you want Saturday tickets you’ll need to buy for both days. I don’t know why they do it that way but whatever. Saturday is all the qualifiers and Sunday is eliminations and the judged car show. The parking area is usually full of Hondas, some clean and some clapped out. I’m planning to do Classic Hondas on the Dragon as well, since I’ve never been.
You will love CHD! It is a fantastic event. I plan to be there all weekend for that in October.
 

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Badass. I had been thinking about having a piece of 90° angle welded straight to the VC and then drilling holes for M6 bolts/nuts. In the end I wound up sending my cover out for powder and I’m having somebody fab one up. It’s pretty much the same idea though. I’ll post pics to my thread when it’s back in my hands. There seems to be 100 different ways to do it but in the end they’re all pretty simple. I like your ingenuity!
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 ·
Now just do yourself a favor and round those corners off, soften the edges so you end up with less cuts, lol
Thought about using the surface area as a sig plate, anyone who has their hand at helping me in some/any way on these cars (yes, even just forum advice too) should put their john hancock on it with a sharpie whenever they see it, kinda like a cast since these cars are always breaking lmao.

Would be a cool keepsake to hang on the shop wall in a few decades haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
So for you guys going this route with COP, I'm honestly not sure what to think here, or how others managed to get COP units installed pressed all the way down on to the plug without issues.

The other mounting plate solutions must not have allowed the coil down in the hole as far as mine does, because I ran into connector interference with the OEM bolts. Figures, prototype with Grey car's shallow washer type fasteners, which offered plentiful clearance, but fully install it on Aero and run into issues lol. Didn't see this one coming, this is my bad haha.

So I had to "adjust" the positioning of 2 coils for bolt clearance reasons. Regardless, COP is up and running, and works very well!

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During the test drives, remember that extremely intermittent cutting off issue? Well, not so intermittent after installing COP for some reason! Thought going COP would help to solve it since I believed part of the issue lay with the distributor ICM/Coil, but apparently this was not the case.

I messaged @Soul Engineering after I discovered what the issue was, so I'm going to borrow from his texts to avoid typing more lol:

"So I'm pretty sure I figured out the fucking reason this car keeps intermittently shutting off haha... I always thought Honda's could run without a MAP sensor in limp mode with only TPS, but this one doesn't...
In either case, went for a rip and this car was shutting off way worse and for longer periods of time than it ever had before lol... i thought "great, something in the ECU was messed up, and I wiggled it a bit when doing the COP install, and now whatever it is is worse than before".
But I was partially happy too, since it was acting up with enough frequency I might be able to actually do something about it.
So I got out the diagnostic screwdriver handle and started smacking shit with it, the main relay, the ECU, the TPS and the MAP sensor. And thats when I caught it. MAP sensor would cut the car off with the tinyest little love taps with the screwdriver handle. And it would not allow the car to restart, until unplugging it and reinstalling it."

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Can't believe it. The reason I couldn't catch this in the datalogs, was because there was never any weird spike or parameter seriously out of range or irrational, no fault codes either.

When the MAP sensor would act up and shut the car off, its feedback to the ECU showed the data parameter indicated that the failed state was just full vacuum, which honestly appeared entirely rational when I played back the logs since when the cut off would happen, the sensor was already indicating almost full engine vacuum already since I was crusing with very part throttle whenever it would do it. I never thought to align TPS and MAP ONLY, and scrutenize them for MAP response and me hitting the gas.

I bet if I go back and do this looking at the logs knowing the failure state, I bet in times where I tried pressing the throttle WOT when it would cut off, the MAP sensor will be stuck showing full vacuum and not atmospheric, where it should have responded and followed linearly between full vacuum and atmospheric with my pressing of the throttle.

This was an Omnipower 3bar sensor that failed. So for anyone else ever experiencing this symptom, just know that the MAP sensor can act up to the point of shutting off the car and not throw a fault code.

I've since installed a good stock Denso MAP sensor in its place and rescaled the settings in Neptune, and since this car never sees over like 7-9psi anyways, it will be perfect for testing. If the car doesn't shut off moving forward, I'm going to call that one fixed!



On to the next problem! I have a strong feeling that this transmission has some crunchy bearings causing a light rapping/tapping noise between 2500 and 3500rpm while crusing light load. Lay into the throttle, the noise goes almost entirely silent.

The noise volume has stayed the same ever since I started driving this car, and each oil change I do on the engine I keep semi expecting my thoughts to be wrong on this one where an engine bearing is really what is taking a shit, but I see no oil glitter, never anything in the filter, its always clean, so I have strong suspicions the noise is trans related.

This engine just cold starts and free revs with no noise way too nicely for me to feel its in the engine. I can let this engine warm up for an hour, getting the oil engine oil hot, and start driving, and this noise isn't there. It's only once I've been cruising for a while and getting the trans oil hot does the noise start to appear. It also has a terrible first gear while, and the rapping/tapping noise omce trans oil is hot can be barely heard just cruising around in first gear light throttle through a parking lot.

The noise frequency follows engine speed in every gear, not road speed, so its either the engine itself or some bearing on the trans input shaft that is noisy. My gut feeling is on the ISB being crunchy. When the noise happens, I can feel it through the shifter and linkage, as well as through the clutch pedal when very gently pressing the throwout bearing against the pressure plate.

I suppose you could also feel all of these things in the same manner if it was a main or rod bearing too... so I'm at a loss without tearing stuff down. But because I know its got trans whine noises very heavily in first, I know that trans needs some love. So I'm going to start there by installing the one from Grey car that is in perfect condition, and see if the noise goes away. I'll have my answer after that I suppose!

Only after I get Grey car running, will I swap transmissions lol.
 
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