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93 Civic HB SI
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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
is this an edelbroke kit td04?


edit Garrett GT2560R ...must rip hard
It scoots for what it is, I'm very impressed with this turbo!

Almost immediate boost, and improved whoosh noises to scare children with lol. Noises not as hardcore as the grey civic with the hood off, but definitely enough to make people turn their heads with a "what tf was that?" look haha.

Once the B series is built for the grey car, I'm going to have to build some kind of hybrid love child with the two Y8's I have to make a kick ass D for the green car using its turbo. Eventually the green car will have the 300+whp love child engine, but only once the B series is done. The way this car drives right now is very pleasant for daily duty.

Maybe by next winter haha. B series still needs forged internals, CSS, and tranny rebuild with LSD. Shooting for a relatively reliable 400whp with the B, but then significantly detuned to around 280-300whp for track abuse, since the architecture of the B can take longer duty cycles at those power levels way better than the D's can. D's are honestly way more fun for 10-30 seconds power blasts at high power, but 20PSI boost on track for 20 mins a session making over 300whp makes my head go weird places thinking "what might grenade right now, and how many different ways might that translate into death?"

The grey civic with its current turbo D will see a few more track sessions before getting the B placed under the hood. I learned a TON about the car in current form driving it on full song at VIR, and need to work out some of its sketchyness at high speeds with more aero tweaks. Grey car is definitely a sketchy beast at 130+mph for long periods of time not pointing straight, Turn 18 on the front stretch heading into Turn 1 at VIR is by far the most butt puckering I've done in a while. Heading over 130 into that slight right for the braking zone with my chassis in current form, the rear wants to step out sooooo hard that I'm pointing the front wheels a significant ways left to take that right turn at speed.

Not entirely fun lol. Everyone I talked to on track said rear spherical links for these cars go a long way in keeping the rear stationary while at high speeds so alignment can't change, and of course a rear wing to push the fucker down. I felt like this was going to happen at any minute (skip to 2:20, they take the wing off to see the effects on handling at high speeds):

 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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been looking at the maxpeeding coilover for a replacement with a stockish ride but got sketched as fuq about the top hat mount sucking nard..

do you think an oem tophat strut mount would work on these coilovers?
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
been looking at the maxpeeding coilover for a replacement with a stockish ride but got sketched as fuq about the top hat mount sucking nard..

do you think an oem tophat strut mount would work on these coilovers?
been looking at the maxpeeding coilover for a replacement with a stockish ride but got sketched as fuq about the top hat mount sucking nard..

do you think an oem tophat strut mount would work on these coilovers?
I literally did no research on that aspect of them lol, are the top hats shite? What happens to them?

I have some OE shock aasemblies I can use to compare, as long as spring coil diameters are similar, I suppose they would work! I'll check it out.

Honestly the ride quality is so much better today after getting it aligned. Night and day, really not bad at all for $240 coilovers.
 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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I literally did no research on that aspect of them lol, are the top hats shite? What happens to them?

I have some OE shock aasemblies I can use to compare, as long as spring coil diameters are similar, I suppose they would work! I'll check it out.

Honestly the ride quality is so much better today after getting it aligned. Night and day, really not bad at all for $240 coilovers.
saw a few with shock through the hood "issues"...

..cool man
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
When do we get ripper vids? At least of the cluster.........
I'll try to take a good one on the way home. Found out this morning, kinda chilly, t-stat must be partially stuck open, coolant temp goes from 195 while sitting still warm, down to 140 while crusing.

Scared the shit out of me when I figured out this characteristic. Original tune had low and high ECT boost cuts set, 3psi max below 150F, up to 11psi above.

Was boosting fine on the beginning of my journey to work (nice and warm), then half way through I tried to pass someone and put my foot all the way down, pulled hard then WAM, all power cut and I launched forward. I was like what the F was that?

Then I tried it again, sure enough, sure felt like a boost cut, and boost gauge only indicating like 3 psi. Let it warm back up while stopped at a light, and did another rip, and boost to 10. While cruising, the cluster temp gauge slowly dropped to cold, so I ordered a new t-stat, will throw it in this evening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
So i found out why it felt like tstat was stuck open. It was very open, like missing.

After reinstalling it, I think I figured out why some dillhole gave up on trying to fix it and just removed it, I can explain.

It was rather dark when I finished up installing it, but I let it run for about 10 mins yet coolant would NOT stop boiling over at IDLE, and lower rad hose was still ice cold.

Like legit boiling out my spill free funnel. I tried removing it and closing the cap, then revving it hoping the tstat would eventually open and it would burp itself and stop doing that, but after like 2-3 mins of higher RPM and constant boiling, excessive shockwaves occurring inside the cooling system and excessive air pockets developing due to boiling, I cut it off.

Lower rad hose still cold, cooling fan on constantly blowing cold air.

I went in for the night, too dark to dick with it, but I almost BET the dude who installed this engine got the heater core hoses and head bypass hose positioned incorrectly, or it just has an absolute massive air pocket that will not get out without using a vac filler.

I've swapped many a tstat like this on a D series, introduced air there, and simply re-bled the system with my funnel until it burped. Ive never had this kind of boiling condition occurring so quickly.

Its not HG blown, I would have noticed that before with all the excessive right footing and boosting after getting WG fixed. I've got money on the fact that they crossed the heater core hoses and bypass up somehow, because it seems like there is zero coolant flow through the engine.

The coolant nipple out of the intake manifold is supposed to go to that P shaped hose that loops back to the thermostat housing nipple closest to the tstat spring, so a relatively consistent flow of coolant can circulate through the block, head, and flow over the tstat spring allowing it to open when its time, then back to the waterpump.

I've seen jackholes put the heater core hose on that nipple, then run the OTHER head outlet under the distributor to the heater core as well, with the P hose looping the two nearby nipples on the tstat housing together. This routing effectively stops coolant recirculation when a thermostat is installed, and causes rapid boiling.

Got a $10 on it. Will report back tomorrow.

I did get the oil changed though :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
So here was old tstat (or missing tstat lol)

Eye Oval Circle Auto part Window


Tableware Drinkware Food Door Tin


The P hose that loops coolant from the intake nipple out to the tstat spring was on the tstat housing nipple furthest from the spring, so I swapped the two since the P hose is supposed to push coolant directly on that spring, not be on the nipple further downstream, which is where the heater core hose is supposed to go

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Rim Carbon


Coolant flows like this through it:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle Car



So I got all that done, and for giggles I made sure the heater control valve control arm and cable were was doing their thing:

Automotive tire Wheel Tire Gear Auto part



So I left that guy open so water could flow, and I cranked it up with my spill free funnel full of coolant. Interesting symptom during warm up, the heater core hoses got nice and hot, but the P hose didnt. Let it warm up like this, had good flow, lower rad hose got warm, tstat opened up and fans came on, no boiling hissy fit.

So there is either some kind of blockage on the nipple coming out of the intake, or someone built a coolant passage block off plate on the manifold gasket lol. Either one is possible, I'll have to dive in at some point to figure it out.

So for right now, glad its winter, I can roll with the heater control valve wide open so there is flow through the block. I'll probably wait till Friday (day off tomorrow and Friday), pull the hose back off the intake nipple and jam a screwdriver in the hole to see whats up lol.

Its chilly outside right now, it was 19F at my house last night so no motivation to work outside, which is -7C. No Canadian cold by any means, but cold enough to want to stay inside and eat, drink and play Mario Kart with my son.
 

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I forgot one time, I actually had one I fixed once that someone had blocked off the heater hose lines with copper piping that was crushed (like an X) on one end and soldered up. It took me a day or two to figure out that the hoses were blocked and it was because of a stopped up heater core/because race car. Pulled those things out and was like, what plumber did this. Literally was copper water pipe with plumbers solder on it. That was a fun one to figure out. Might find something similar on Aero
 
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