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Discussion Starter #1
Picked up this 1996 Civic Hatch CX. All stock except a non working head unit and some no name ball shifter.



Plans for the car : Going to make it a daily track. Attempt at track car at least.
The valve cover is leaking, already went and got a gasket set from O'riley.
That's about all that needs to be done currently.
Then i'm going to get some rims with decent tires.
Trying to decide on either go shocks and springs, or some coils.
Cat back and maybe intake? I'd like to keep it stock motor wise and learn to drive.

(For exhaust i did see a video of a guy that put the FA Si muffler on his Eg. I don't know how or what other mods he has, but it sounds amazing to me and that's my plan for exhaust. If anyone has anymore info on this i'd really appreciate it. I came from my WRX and im used to having a loud annoying car, so its weird driving something so quiet)
 

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Go to post image .org, upload image, copy hot link for forum, paste and enjoy on thread.

Welcome n00b, we are here for you, unless you are a dick, then I will call batman....don't ask.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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Go to post image .org, upload image, copy hot link for forum, paste and enjoy on thread.

Welcome n00b, we are here for you, unless you are a dick, then I will call batman....don't ask.
:fingersx::devil::bolletje:
 

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if you are gonna keep the motor stock, dont bother with exhaust or intake mods.

Money would be better spent on any sort of maintenance. Then maybe toss a couple hundred towards a lightweight flywheel and a good name brand clutch.


Many things are forgotten on cars. Brake fluid, tranny fluid, regreasing joints, flushing coolant system, flushing power steering if equipped, etc..

Just go down the book and you will have a very smooth running and very reliable car to beat on.

tires and rims can come after you update the bushings, eitehr fresh OEM or aftermarket poly style ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
if you are gonna keep the motor stock, dont bother with exhaust or intake mods.

Money would be better spent on any sort of maintenance. Then maybe toss a couple hundred towards a lightweight flywheel and a good name brand clutch.


Many things are forgotten on cars. Brake fluid, tranny fluid, regreasing joints, flushing coolant system, flushing power steering if equipped, etc..

Just go down the book and you will have a very smooth running and very reliable car to beat on.

tires and rims can come after you update the bushings, eitehr fresh OEM or aftermarket poly style ones.
I want to stay stock for reliabilty purposes, but i would like a cat back of some sort so i have so noise. No tachometer so its hard to tell when to shift, and its so quiet i've already stalled. D:

My check engine light came on today (P1336 / P1337) Going to focus on getting that knocked out first then go from there.
 

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If both those codes came n at the same time, I suggest you yank the paneling on the passenger footwell and see if the wiring has been touched.

Sounds like someone may have attempted to bypass the cranksensor in a previous swap or such.

If the wiring looks great and untouched, clear codes, yank ecu fuse for 10 minutes, and do an idle relearn next time the car is cool (or sitting over 3 hours)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If both those codes came n at the same time, I suggest you yank the paneling on the passenger footwell and see if the wiring has been touched.

Sounds like someone may have attempted to bypass the cranksensor in a previous swap or such.

If the wiring looks great and untouched, clear codes, yank ecu fuse for 10 minutes, and do an idle relearn next time the car is cool (or sitting over 3 hours)
Took off the tire, could see the wires were being hit by the belt and starting to fray apart, so I cut it off, extened the wires, put them back together, wrapped them in electrical tape and some tubing, then ran it under the alternator and back up to the clip, no more CEL so it should be good. Also replaced the valve cover gasket + spark plug plugs.
 
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