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Hello everyone its siregcivic, just waiting to get my password reset... anyway..

My transmission is a hydro b16 with ls 4.2 final drive I just rebuilt the transmission about 7 months ago with new bearings and carbon synchro I use the car for road racing and I don't drive it very often but I've been doing a lot of work to it recently so i was going to take it around the block then I heard this noise when I was pushing the car out of the garage.


I opened the trans and found some spider gears broken on the open diff so I decided to go with the Mfactory clutch type 1.5 way lsd and installed that synchrotech shaved my case for the clearance of the diff and everything looks fine but im getting this noise


it look like the ring gear bolts were hitting first gear on the countershaft so i machined them down about 20thou but its still making this noise and I dont know what in the hell is going on with it, everything looks fine and it shifts in all gears and spins like normal but i still haven't installed it into the car because I don't want to break it.

If anyone has any ideas or they need me to open the case and put pictures i will as of now I am stumped

thankyou
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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398 Posts
You don't think any pieces of metal from when the spiders self destructed ended up getting caught in any of the open style bearings did they? Metal has a funny way of working itself into weird places, and metal that has made its way into any of the roller bearings for some reason NEVER wants to dislodge. It will stay there and continue to wreak havoc on all the rollers and races. I would completely strip down all components on the main and countershafts and clean everything again just to make sure. Also check the diff roller bearings manually.

Since it seems you are performing all of this work yourself, you are very mechanically savvy. Have you tried running the transmission on an engine stand out of the car? I built an adapter using an old clutch disc and attached it to a v-belt pulley so I could use a 120V 3/4HP motor with a smaller pulley to turn the input shaft of the transmission with it bolted to the stand.

This way, you can run the transmission with no load with a bit of oil in it and manually run through the gears. The "clutch" pedal for this device was simply the 3/4 HP motor mounted to a wooden plank and a hinge that I could lift up slightly to take pressure off the drive belt to slow or stop the input shaft from turning. Change gears on the shift linkage rod with a screwdriver (just remember everything is backwards and upside down when you shift straight from the rod haha)

This allows you to "ghetto" bench test the transmission before reinstallation into the car. You could probably build this setup for less than $100 if you already have an engine stand and an old clutch disc. I happened to have all of this laying around when I built mine.

When you have all of this built, you can see where the noise is inside the trans by running it and listening to the case with a cheap mechanics stethoscope. If it is in the trans, take the trans apart (much faster than removing it from the car) remembering where the noisy area was and try to take things apart/turn things/isolate things on the bench that came from that area, and see what you get.

Hope this helps!
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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40,313 Posts
Dear Sir, please provide tranny pron at your earliest convienence as well as describing the first gear to bolts issues. Note the the countershaft is lifted up into the lockring during finally assembly.

Also, how did you spec out the settings on the MF PLated LSD when purchased?
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
Joined
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40,313 Posts
You don't think any pieces of metal from when the spiders self destructed ended up getting caught in any of the open style bearings did they? Metal has a funny way of working itself into weird places, and metal that has made its way into any of the roller bearings for some reason NEVER wants to dislodge. It will stay there and continue to wreak havoc on all the rollers and races. I would completely strip down all components on the main and countershafts and clean everything again just to make sure. Also check the diff roller bearings manually.

Since it seems you are performing all of this work yourself, you are very mechanically savvy. Have you tried running the transmission on an engine stand out of the car? I built an adapter using an old clutch disc and attached it to a v-belt pulley so I could use a 120V 3/4HP motor with a smaller pulley to turn the input shaft of the transmission with it bolted to the stand.

This way, you can run the transmission with no load with a bit of oil in it and manually run through the gears. The "clutch" pedal for this device was simply the 3/4 HP motor mounted to a wooden plank and a hinge that I could lift up slightly to take pressure off the drive belt to slow or stop the input shaft from turning. Change gears on the shift linkage rod with a screwdriver (just remember everything is backwards and upside down when you shift straight from the rod haha)

This allows you to "ghetto" bench test the transmission before reinstallation into the car. You could probably build this setup for less than $100 if you already have an engine stand and an old clutch disc. I happened to have all of this laying around when I built mine.

When you have all of this built, you can see where the noise is inside the trans by running it and listening to the case with a cheap mechanics stethoscope. If it is in the trans, take the trans apart (much faster than removing it from the car) remembering where the noisy area was and try to take things apart/turn things/isolate things on the bench that came from that area, and see what you get.

Hope this helps!
A Goodyear 20v 1/2" impact from Pep Boys is all that you need to spin the input shaft using PCV tubing for an EBAY 3" short ram intake and two hose clamps.

I know you are new to here, but SirEGCivic is not....he's just been MIA since the AG/VS hacking issue required all the passwords to be reset.

His original username

https://www.d-series.org/forums/members/5851-siregcivic.html

Some of my B series customers of recent

2015 SCCA Runoffs FP National Champion, Kevin Ruck
2017 SCCA Runoffs STL National Champion, Second place, was consultant on 3rd place as well. Roberts, Kutil, Dunn (ex-Moser ITA CRX)
 
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