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Discussion Starter #1
Ok i just bought a 1990 Civic DX Hatch never had a civic before bought cause wife got mad that i was trying to put performance on our new monte carlo so i bought this as my fun it has a D15B2 i believe bone stock except for some parts i have in the mail now just trying to figure out what i schould do to make this car around a mid/low 14's on the quarter mile eveyone talks about new head's and stuff just want to get an idea of what some of the stuff i need to do is so far. here is a list of thing's i have done so far I made a custom cold air intake that runs into the old resonator and it's attached to the ugly black throttle body i believe(wanna remove but dont know were to find a throttle body) i also put new Platinum Plus Wires on it with Platinum Plus Plugs I just purchased Ceramic Headers that im going to wrap in Heat tape and i also bought a short shifter removed the spare tire and contiplateing removing the Back seats so from there if anyone can give me some ideas it would be appriciated. Thanks!
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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937 Posts
First use the search button

But I'll try to steer you right before you get flamed for saying "headers". Your civic only has one header. I own a very similar 91 base model hatchback.
Best mods:

89-91 Si 5 speed transmission
Multi Point Fuel Injection or switch to carburators
D16A6 camshaft and a D16y7 or y8 cam gear
Normal bolt ons, intake, header, exhaust
and get the MPFI ECU chipped then tuned by Hondata or someone capable


That'll take you from super slow, to moderately able to pass another vehicle on the road. LOL, it'll help out a lot. Still won't be super fast, but you'll be knocking on the 15 second door.
 

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98 Civic EX
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you don't need to rap the header, it is a ceremic header, so pretty much already rapped...

the wires and plugs are good and all, but without extra ignition power it will help out minimally at best...

start out with doing a head swap (if it is possible, i can't remember off the top of my head, but is that a 8 or 16 valve head?)...along with the head swap switch over to a multi port fuel injext with the y8 or z6 intake mani...for the head i would suggest the a6, or a vtec head (such as a z6 or y8)...the switch to a vtec head is called a mini-me, do a search for that and you will get all of the info you need for the swap...the a6 would be a none vtec nead swap, but you would get better after market support...

after all is said and done you'll need to tune it, you'll need the following IMO:
-chipped ecu
-crome or crome pro
-cam gear (for which ever head you go with)
-timing light
-wide band o2 sensor
-computer (this is to change the maps)
-datalogging

once you get the hang of tuning from here you can go nitrous or boost to get down to the 14 or less, at that point it will be entirely up to you...good luck and welcome to d-series...
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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937 Posts
Carbs for a D

There is an entire thread devoted solely to carburators on here. The most common setup is a pair of Weber DCOE 45mm sidedraft carbs mounted to a TWM manifold. This setup runs almost a thousand dollars but is proven to outperform its fuel injected counterparts even when theyre tuned. Carbs don't work well with turbo or supercharged applications and thats where the necessity of MPFI is a reality. Check out SOHCinWA's signature. He's running a similar D15 with some internal modifications like dome P29 pistons and .040 shaved off the head. The two greatest contributing factors to his car are the Bisimoto level X camshaft and the Weber carbs. Of course driving ability is also a factor, but the dyno doesn't lie. He's making 150 plus horsepower. Thats what it takes to get into the 14's even if you can't drive.

I am working on a different solution to the carb dilemma of spending a grand for repeatable performance. I've highly modified a DPFI intake like your car has on it now to run a small 250-285 CFM Autolite/Holley 2 barrel downdraft carburator. I'm about half done with the intake and adapter right now. So if it works, I'll definitely be posting my findings on here.


Either way you will no longer depend on a computer to control the Air/Fuel ratio. You can get an innovative wideband O2 setup to perfectly control lean and rich conditions. Also you'll have to switch out your ignition system to an MSD 6 series (digital 6 or 6AL) or comparable CDI type ignition system.
 

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Im Bringing TSEXY Back!
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Or you could buy one of my ultra cool V-TAK! stickers.
Guranteed to put 43 hp to the wheels!
PM me will talk.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
With the DPFI you know how it has that Tall Plastic I guess Throttle body thats Plastic can that be taken off and the intake ran down further cause i think that is real ugly.. i also read in a Dc mag that in order to run carbs i needed to take a intake manifold of off the civic wagon in order to run carbs is this true? and if carbs ends up costing to much what are the parts needed to run the MPFI? what kinda civic do i need to strip in the junk yard?
 
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