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Discussion Starter #1
I am swapping my rear disks from one CRX to another and my RTA bushings are GONE. My question: is there anything special about energy suspension rear trailing arm bushings and their ability to rotate? Or should I just go to autozone and grab a tube of 3m window weld and do all 4 bushings for 1/3rd the price?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
$$$ Currently unemployed college student about to have to start making paymemts on $50k worth the loans.

I am really just wondering how much that bushing rolls with the axis of the arm, I am not worried about it camber binding.
 

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1997 Honda Civic EX
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If money is tight but you can afford the ES bushings I would say go for that. I do like hardrace stuff but it's pricey for sure. I always try to spring for the best I can afford. That said I have used ES bushings in several cars over the years and have always been happy with their products, definitely not junk.
 

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ES bind and also known to fail. Poly bushing wear out quicker even when greased yearly.

You can find "cheap" OEM replacements for less than ES on eBay....
 

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Rubber is the only way. The arms do not more straight up and down, they need to articulate, which is why the solid bushings are not acceptable.
 

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88 RT4WD wagon
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HardRace and done.
went with their spherical, booted to keep the junk out unlike the PWJDM, happy so far. Would recommend it.

ES is just about the worst thing you could put in there. it doesnt just rotate, you're introducing binding into the suspension.

if the hardrace is too much then buy another OEM one, they only last like 20 years.
 

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went with their spherical, booted to keep the junk out unlike the PWJDM, happy so far. Would recommend it.

ES is just about the worst thing you could put in there. it doesnt just rotate, you're introducing binding into the suspension.

if the hardrace is too much then buy another OEM one, they only last like 20 years.
I run the blox Spherical and drag rears and the car handles good on slicks and skinnies lol but in any case I wouldn't window weld a suspension Bushing because they have a lot more to do with the control and safety of the car than doing the ol motor mounts.
 

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88 RT4WD wagon
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I run the blox Spherical and drag rears and the car handles good on slicks and skinnies lol but in any case I wouldn't window weld a suspension Bushing because they have a lot more to do with the control and safety of the car than doing the ol motor mounts.
blox looks to be the same as the PWJDM, was it offset as well? that was another of my issues since im not lowered.

The boots give me a peace of mind since its constantly being hit with dirt and mud.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
if the hardrace is too much then buy another OEM one, they only last like 20 years.
Autozone ones are $80 for the pair. And what are you smoking thinking that they last 20 years? First CRX I ever played with was a 90 DX that had been driven easy up to that point and the RTAs were blown to shit so hard they were not even connected anymore..... So 20 years.....? Try 5 if you are lucky.

I run the blox Spherical and drag rears and the car handles good on slicks and skinnies lol but in any case I wouldn't window weld a suspension Bushing because they have a lot more to do with the control and safety of the car than doing the ol motor mounts.
Honestly if I did have the cash for spherical RTAs I would go hardrace since the price difference is minimal. Blox used to be the super cheap company with decent knock offs, now they are 90%+ price of the knock offs and lower quality. They are no longer worth the gamble.

As far as window welding safety goes..... These bushings were non existant, no part of them was still connected on either side, so regardless of what I do I doubt it can be worse than it was.
 

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88 RT4WD wagon
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Autozone ones are $80 for the pair. And what are you smoking thinking that they last 20 years? First CRX I ever played with was a 90 DX that had been driven easy up to that point and the RTAs were blown to shit so hard they were not even connected anymore..... So 20 years.....? Try 5 if you are lucky.



Honestly if I did have the cash for spherical RTAs I would go hardrace since the price difference is minimal. Blox used to be the super cheap company with decent knock offs, now they are 90%+ price of the knock offs and lower quality. They are no longer worth the gamble.

As far as window welding safety goes..... These bushings were non existant, no part of them was still connected on either side, so regardless of what I do I doubt it can be worse than it was.
Autozone parts does not a baggie with a Red sticker and barcode make. the HONDA oem stuff actually lasts quite a while longer. and i am smoking the AWESOME stuff.:joint:
the ones in my 88 wagon were fine, in the other 88 they weren't. both cars were still the original and both were about 25 yrs old at the time.

As far as blox being crap, its all the same stuff as far as half those companies go. I wouldnt be surprised if the hardrace bearing came from the same place.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Autozone parts does not a baggie with a Red sticker and barcode make. the HONDA oem stuff actually lasts quite a while longer.....
the ones in my 88 wagon were fine, in the other 88 they weren't. both cars were still the original and both were about 25 yrs old at the time.
And what are you smoking thinking that they last 20 years? First CRX I ever played with was a 90 DX that had been driven easy up to that point and the RTAs were blown to shit so hard they were not even connected anymore..... So 20 years.....? Try 5 if you are lucky.
A 90 CRX with blown to shit RTA bushings in 98 means the car was only 8 years old, that wasnt aftermarket bushings, those were OEM.

Since 2001 I personally have owned six 88-91 CRXs, not a single one of them came into my posession with functional RTA bushings, all of them were cracked and torn. If you have an 88 civic with good RTA bushings either someone replaced them, the car has super low miles on mostly glass smooth roads, or it is the magical civic.

You need to git gud, OP.
?

Since I cant afford to do this right, I went the cheap and fast route. Window weld was $28.13 after tax at my local autozone, I have already done the first set and have plenty to finish the second set for the other car. That should hold me over until I can fix my keeper car correctly.
 

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88 RT4WD wagon
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had 130k on it but it was rusted to death and scrapped, i rallycrossed it. not saying it happens frequently.

I dont think window weld is the way to go for bushings that move or articulate like that, but youve made your decision on that one. I dont blame you though, beating those bastards out once was enough for me to buy a press and never deal with it again.
 

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Youre talking about $80 at the parts house.
You can do it for $40 from rock auto. It wont be OEM, but they would probably last a while and the rear suspension would still act normally. Probably the same stuff theyre selling at the local parts house anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I dont think window weld is the way to go for bushings that move or articulate like that, but youve made your decision on that one. I dont blame you though, beating those bastards out once was enough for me to buy a press and never deal with it again.
Ehhh back in the early 2000s that was the common solution for racecars. Stock bushings and urethane filling. So as I said, doubt it will be worse than it was.

I was the first person I know of to run spherical bearings for the CRX in 2002 ish. I took a precise measurement of the outside diamater of the bushing, went to a bearing specalist and spent close to an hour flipping through catalogs before I found the correct bearing (cant remember what the name of them is now) and bought a pair of them. Then I took them to a machinist and asked him to make me solid steel rods with a shoulder step and a C clip channel so the bearing would sit fixed on the rod. Then I ground down the ends of the rod flat and drilled holes and pressed them in and axle greased the crap out of them.

They worked great, but I only had them a couple months before I was in a hit and run accident that totalled the car.
 

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88 RT4WD wagon
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yeah ive done it for motor mounts and diff bushings and such but those aren't meant to move at all, the TA bushing one rotates about the axis and leans both directions as well.

If i could afford it i definitely would have sent everything to kingpin for sure. The aurora and new hampshire ball bearings are amazing. the radius rod bearings are my next part.
 

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hmm

my RTA bushings are soft, but not torn. 18 years and counting.

ES bushings in trailing arms are okay only if you are lowered quite a bit and are using a VERY stiff suspension. Think drag status only.


a rubber replacement is your best option. most of the aftermarkets are STRONGER than factory bushing anyways.
 
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