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Discussion Starter #1
I'd ask the local machine shop, except I haven't found one yet (rural Alabama FTL). If anyone knows a GOOD machine shop in Alabama or Southern Tennessee, please, let me know.

The plan is to build a solid boosted engine. I'm rebuilding this block from the bottom up as the first step.

  • Rods - Eagle or the custom forged I beam rods FJ Distributors makes for Vitaras (any opinions on which?)
  • Pistons - Vitara
  • Cam - Bisimoto 1.2 Turbo cam
  • Valves/Springs/Spring retainers - I have no idea what to get just that they are essential for high rpm.
I will be replacing all seals, belts, and the water pump. Also, the crankshaft will be balanced/polished, but I have to find a machine shop that can do it right. I recall that Honda crankshafts spin in the opposite direction of most domestics (read somewhere on this forum) and balancing/polishing must be done by a machinist that knows this and has the proper equipment to do it.

I'm still researching the process of shimming/boring/radiusing/??? the oil pump, but I'm unsure as to what tools to use or what the end result is supposed to be. I know more flow is needed in certain spots, but what is too much or too little? I've been thinking of just trying to find an oil pump already prepped for a turbo engine, but only if I can't do it on my own.

I'll be getting the head and the block hot-tanked/blueprinted before I buy my pistons. If you have any pointers or feel the need to state the obvious, go right ahead.


I managed to get the head off my block (D16Y7) yesterday and noticed heavy carbon scoring (at least I think that's what it's called).









I've read about the deglazing as part of rebuilding an engine. I can see the crosshatch pattern on the cylinder walls, but have no idea whether it should be deglazed or not. Your opinion?





I've got space on the side of a tool shack for a workspace. It's covered but open. I've read opinions ranging from requiring a sterile workspace to just where you can sit is good enough. It gets pretty humid where I live so I'm sure rust will play a part. I could always dedicate my kitchen to the head/engine block once they are hot tanked.

  • What actions should I take to make sure the engine stays in good condition while disassembled? I could bolt the head back up, but other parts already have rust on them (crankshaft pulley). Which brings me to my next question.

  • What is a good solvent to clean rust off the crankshaft pulley (or other parts) without damaging the metal? Is it even worth salvaging?




 

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The crosshatch looks to be in very good shape. If your doing vitaras get the 75.5mm and have your block bored to Honda's piston to cylinder wall clearance. Doing this will stop the piston slap that vitaras are known for.

As far as the rust goes. You can media blast them but make sure if its something like the block or head that you triple tape off any openings to stop abrasive media from getting anywhere important. For your crank pulley just blast it and paint it. Iv also heard that malt vinegar works wonders on rusty parts but Iv never tried it.

Seems like you have a good plan and are attacking this like I would. Make sure you get all the specs needed to machine the engine and assemble it and take them to your machinist. Even if they arnt putting it together they still need all the info to test fit and check clearances when doing things like boring and notching.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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I see some ridge buildup near the top of the cylinder walls...gonna want to ridge ream that so you don't damage your new piston rings....
 

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Easy way to find a good machine shop is they will ask you to buy pistons first. So when they can make a piston fit for a specific cylinder. I did hear that some engines spin CCW but haven't seen any just CW. If you decide to PNP the head try to get it flow benched, because i seen a lot of places actually loose cfm from grinding it to much and making it a straight shot in the runner.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys...advice duly noted.

The crosshatch looks to be in very good shape. If your doing vitaras get the 75.5mm and have your block bored to Honda's piston to cylinder wall clearance. Doing this will stop the piston slap that vitaras are known for.

As far as the rust goes. You can media blast them but make sure if its something like the block or head that you triple tape off any openings to stop abrasive media from getting anywhere important. For your crank pulley just blast it and paint it. Iv also heard that malt vinegar works wonders on rusty parts but Iv never tried it.

Seems like you have a good plan and are attacking this like I would. Make sure you get all the specs needed to machine the engine and assemble it and take them to your machinist. Even if they arnt putting it together they still need all the info to test fit and check clearances when doing things like boring and notching.

Good luck and keep us posted.
By "bored to Honda's piston to cylinder wall clearance" do you mean the stock clearance?

 

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Thanks guys...advice duly noted.



By "bored to Honda's piston to cylinder wall clearance" do you mean the stock clearance?

Correct. Just tell them to put that much space between the piston and the bore no matter what the piston measures out to be. Dont just buy 75.5mm vitaras and say bore my 75mm block to 75.5mm because that solves nothing. The vitaras are not a true 75.5mm so just make sure they bore the hole to have the above listed clearances and all will be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i just read the first part of your post. there are a couple shops in Huntsville alabama, close to tennessee. I live in huntsville so send me an email at [email protected] and ill point you in the right direction.
E-Mail sent bro, appreciate any help I can get!

whos been driving that car man? drive the everliving piss out of that engine to break some of the carbon off.
A friend of a friend of mine. I have no idea what it was driven like, as when I bought it we pulled it out of a horse trough in his backyard. I cannot begin to describe how much of a newb I am when it comes to the innards of an engine and it's condition. Hence, my greatest thanks to you guys for pointing me in the right direction. :TU:
 

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