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Discussion Starter #1
My Girl has a 01' Civic Ex Auto, the thing is the car feels very weak like if it had a plug cat or something. This is what is doing when i park or in nuatral the car will only rev to about 4700 rpm and the car wont go pass that, like if it were hitting a rev limiter at the point. and when in gear the care bogs down after that point in the rpm range like if was running out of breath. I think it may be the V-TEC not going in or what can it be. Any help maybe will be apreciated!! :???:
 

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98 Civic EX
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if it is bogging in lower rpm ranges then it is not the vtec. as a matter of fact i'm not sure about this but i think that the vtec enganges around the 3500-4000 rpm range.

anyways, how many miles are on the car has the fuel filter been changed, air filter, oil? have a diagnostic on it, see what codes come up.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I dont think our cars will rev farther than that in neutral. Anyways yeah, check all you filters and make sure all your fluids are up to date. Also, with you engine cold, check the spark plugs, see if they need a replacement.
 

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Yes on the newer cars there is a electronic rev limiter that will not allow you to rev it past a ceritan rpm... Its kinda like a 2 step computer!!! How many miles are one the thing?
 

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this is only on the automatics right? if it is to be on all the newer cars, then i don't have one. i can rev all the way up to 7100 in neutral. but i also have a manual.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
yeah, just on the autos, its there to try and keep idiots from neutral dropping thier cars at redline :)
 
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Discussion Starter #7
something's that u may want to do.

1. reset the ecu disconect the batt for 10min then conect it again turn on the car and let it run for 10min so it can adjust its self.

2.check to see if the throtle cable is loose.

3.trow some fule injector cleaner in.

4.if the check eng light is on then take it to honda had a problem similar to ur's everytime i would step on the gas the car would boggle down then my check eng light came on took to honda they fixed it for free car was running to lean and wasnt getting fuel. i think theres a recall on something in the tank not to sure.

5.you can try to change the fuel filter but there is really no reason to our fuel filters are designed so we never have to change them. wich is located in the tank its self.

6.check your plugs

hopefully one of these things will solve your problem. if not take to back to honda if your still under warranty.

and donsent matter if u have a auto or manual u can rev all the way to the rpm cut off wich is 6800-7200
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Everything you said is true, except for the revving part, with the autos, in neutral, you cant rev above 4700-5000.
 

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that's interesting about the fuel filters....never knew that, as a matter of fact i would love to know how that works?
 
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Discussion Starter #10
yea kinda of weird i thought. but if you ever want to change it here is a DIY for it

DIY Fuel Filter Replacement

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It's better to do this when you are low on gas (1/4 or below) for the fact that when you pull the unit out, it's going to be covered in gas.

Tools etc:
Philips head screwdriver
Large flat screwdriver
Small flat screwdriver
Pliers
Rags

Parts:
P/N 368420 - Honda Fuel Filter (about $30)
P/N 26506 - Quick Connect Fitting (<$1)::: That's only if you break it, which I doubt would happen, but Honda suggests you change them whenever you disconnect the line.

Step 1: Depressurizing the system
Remove the tabs from the glovebox and drop it down. Right behind there you see two relays. I think one is blue and one is brown. Either way, remove the relay on the left. It's for the Fuel Injection system. Once the relay is removed, start the car and let it idle until it stalls itself out. The fuel system should then be depressurized. You can depressurize tank pressure by removing the filler cap. Since you can never fully depressurize the system, when you remove the line a little bit of fuel may dribble out.

Step 2: Remove the negative battery terminal from the battery.

Step 3: Locate the Fuel Pump unit.
The bottom section of the rear seat is just held in by large clips. There are only 2 (Left, Right). All you have to do is pull up on the bottom section and it should come loose. You don't really need to remove the bottom section, but if you feel like it, there is a bolt under the back piece where the seat splits. You should now see the a metal cover. Get a philips head screw driver and remove the four screws holding that cover on. Lift is aside and you can now see the top of the unit.

Step 4:
(Open your doors and vent)
Unclip the 5-wire harness on top of the unit. Now you can fully move that metal cover out if the way. Next is the plastic locking ring. Get a large flat tip screwdriver and place it against one of the notches. Make sure the handle is covered with something that won't create sparks. Knock the end of the screwdriver with a hammer so the locking ring starts to twist counter-clockwise. It might be tight at first, but eventually you should just be able to twist it off with your hand. Now you'll notice that the fuel line up top is in the way. You need to remove it. The fuel line has a quick connect fitting. Get a rag ready just incase, and push the two white tabs inward and pull on the fuel line, it comes off easy. Collect any fuel on the rag, and wrap the end of the line in a plasic bag or rag and seal it with a rubber band so fumes or extra gas isn't coming out.

Step 5: Removing the unit
All you really need to do is pull up and the unit starts to pop out. It takes a little maneuvering to get it all out, but not that hard at all. Just make sure you aren't putting a lot of strength to take it out, because you don't need parts breaking off in the tank (which aren't hard to retrieve just incase that does happen, it's a small tank). You also have to maneuver the Fuel Level Sender out which is on the end of the unit. Just be careful not to bend it. When you pull the unit out, there is sure to be some fuel in it. Let as much drain out as you can inside the tank. Your best bet would then be to place the unit in a bucket or something and move out of the car to work on it. Cover the hole in the tank with something too so your car doesn't end up smelling like fuel for days.

Step 6: Disassembling the unit
When you see the unit, it's a pretty straight forward "clip on/off" assembly. Unclip the harnesses from the top of the unit (they can only go one way, so no need to label them). Unclip the joints on the base that hold the top assemble on. This should just open up a little more space to work on the inside. Unclip the top section of the base that hold the fuel pump. You'll niotice that the fuel pump is also encloded inside a plastic cage. Unclip the back section of the cage, remove the power harness, and pull the unit out (mind the rubber seal if it comes out, just pop it back in. And there is a white plastic collar around the pump outlet, keep an eye on it). You should now have your fuel pump and fuel filter in your hands.

Step 7: Replacing the fuel filter
Take a small flat tipped screwdriver and pry of the washer on the back of the unit. Bend it, break it, who cares. It's part of the new filter assembly anyway. Remove the fuel filter. Take your new filter and put it in the same place. Take the new washer and get it onto that post (needle nose pliers and a little pressure does the job). Viola! A new fuel filter!

Step 8: Reassembling the Unit
Pull the plastic collar back around the pump outlet, and make sure the rubber seal (ring) is back in its place. Get the pump assembly back into the cage and snap it together. Plug the power harness back into place. Place the cage into the base of the unit, and snap the cover back on. Snap the swivel joints that connect the top and base together. Reconnect the two harnesses to the top. Make sure the unit is clean, and remaneuver it back into the tank.

Step 9: Sealing
You can't really just push the top back down because it has the black seal that goes around the inside of the hole in the tank. You need to push is down a little, and run your finger around it making sure the rubber isn't caught outside. Twisting the top back and forth is a trick I picked up. Did the job most the time, but you have to have the majority of the seal inside already. This is spring loaded though, so you have to push down at the same time. Once you have the seal set, put the plastic locking ring on while still pushing down on the unit. Tighted it as much as you can by hand. Then get out the ol' screwdriver and hammer with the rag or whatever and give it a few knocks so it rotates clockwise and tightens. You don't need to over tighten it. It's not going to go anywhere even if you only hand tightened it.

Reconnect the fuel line. It just snaps back into place. Make sure you pull on it a little to see that it doesn't come off. Reconnect the 5 wire harnress to the top. Place the metal cover back on and tighten the 4 screws (not too tight, they are set in plastic and it will just strip).

Pull the seat back down. Clip it into place. Put the fuel filler cap on, etc etc.

Put the FI relay back into place. Connect the negative terminal.

Step 10: Priming and Starting
Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the ON position. Give the lines a few seconds to pressurize. Turn it to the OFF position. Turn it back to ON, give it a couple of seconds and start the car. It might need to turn over a couple times, but not too many. Go drive around or something. I think your mom wanted some milk at the store. Here's a couple dollars.
 

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that's awesome, someone needs to move that to the DIY section...mods?
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Thx guys, i thought my girls car was acting up, what i read is that it wont rev past 4700 on the auto trannies. But i will change that fuel filter Thx.
I did do a scan and no codes came up and about the service its be done on a regular basis. I think i will just take it ti honda to explain to me why it feels slow.
 

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the reason for the slowness could be that our cars only come with 1.7 liter engines and about 115 hp (my vp anyway)
 
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Discussion Starter #14
My lady has a 01 LX auto...slug. I was looking for bolt on I/H/E but there isn't a whole lot out there. Any suggestions. I was thinking the AEM V2 intake, and maybe the DC twin can exhaust.
 

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Nor Cal D-series rider
1991 Honda Civic STD
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I have read many places that the best intake for 7th gens is the K&N FIPK 2. You keep bottom end torque with a good top end gain too. Injen Race Division has best top end for racing. For exhaust, look into either Tanabe Racing Medallion, Skunk2 or Greddy Evo 2. All are good performers, but the Tanabe is raspy and kinda louder. The DC sounds great, but doesn't perform as well and is heavy. Also, read up on 7thgencivic.com My brothers car is 01EXplain there. Hope this helps. :pikachu:
 

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1991 Honda Civic STD
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extolex2000, if you want a good header for the non vtec, the best one is the Kamikaze. For EX's, the HP header gives the best gains. P.S., 7th Gens are the fastest non SI/Del Sol model civics ever, but are still slooo
 
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Discussion Starter #17
thanks import Al, I'll check out those items. But you know I do have to make sure that my ladies car is not as fast as mine :)
 
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