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Discussion Starter #1
I'am picking up a d16z6 shortblock here locally this weekend. I want to do a buildup with...

vitara pistons (i don't know which rings to use since I hear crome rings suck)
eagle rods
arp head studs
new oil pump

dissassebling the engine will be pretty easy. I'am buying an engine stand this weekend as well my questions/plan of attack...

mount the engine on the stand (duh!)
1. what size bolts can I buy locally to mount the block on the engine stand?

dissassemble/label/bag every part I take off

take it to the machine shop to get cleaned/bored .020 over/make sure deck it staight
2. should I notch before or after the bore? I would assume before but wouldn't the amount I will need to notch change after it is bored? how much clearance do I need to the bottom of the bore/girdle? should I get any work done to the crank (balanced, polished, etc.)?

assemble/check clearances accoring to spec
3. what lubricants/assembly lube do I need (hondabond, copper spray,wd40) and where do I use them? what about main/crank/rod bearings? do I check them with a micrometer or plasi-guage? piston to wall clearance? I obviously order the bearings after I check/polish the crank, right? what about the head studs? do I just do them hand tight and worry about tourqing down when the head is on?

and lastly, about how much in machine shop cost will I spend?

please help. I have done engine swaps, turbo installs, etc.. but, would love to have this under my belt as well.
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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M12x1.5 I believe is the bolt/thread type for the tranny bolt holes

Notch before the block is bored. that way it won't have to be cleaned twice. Notching the girdle depends on the rod bolt size. I didn't have to notch but others have had to. Crank work is up to you..do some research and make your own decision. I torqued the head studs in to 10 ft-lbs and then put the head on, then step torque the nuts on in two or three increments (I assume we're talking ARP's here?).

Plastigauge the clearances will be fine, but a set of digital calipers to more accurately measure the plastigauge doesn't hurt but it's not necessary. Piston to wall clearance depends on your preference. Give your pistons to the machine shop and tell them how much clearance you want and they will "build" it in to the bore.

I used moly lube based assembly lube, high temp rtv (fuck hondabond), copper spray, brakleen.

My machine work cost my about $300. Consisted of: boring the block, milling the head, "cleaning" the head, installing new valve stem seals, cleaning the block, turning crank.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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M12x1.5 I believe is the bolt/thread type for the tranny bolt holes

Notch before the block is bored. that way it won't have to be cleaned twice. Notching the girdle depends on the rod bolt size. I didn't have to notch but others have had to. Crank work is up to you..do some research and make your own decision. I torqued the head studs in to 10 ft-lbs and then put the head on, then step torque the nuts on in two or three increments (I assume we're talking ARP's here?).

Plastigauge the clearances will be fine, but a set of digital calipers to more accurately measure the plastigauge doesn't hurt but it's not necessary. Piston to wall clearance depends on your preference. Give your pistons to the machine shop and tell them how much clearance you want and they will "build" it in to the bore.

I used moly lube based assembly lube, high temp rtv (fuck hondabond), copper spray, brakleen.

My machine work cost my about $300. Consisted of: boring the block, milling the head, "cleaning" the head, installing new valve stem seals, cleaning the block, turning crank.

nooo
its m12x1.25 I am CERTAIN, I just bought the bolts last weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
by turning the crank... is that basically making sure it has a good journal surface?

also, when notching the block before the machine shop gets it, how will you know how much to take out?
 

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take enough out so the rods don't hit the block anymore.

and yes turning the crank basically makes sure the journal surface is good and not out of round
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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Just be sure you double check the bolts you pull out of the bin at lowes/homedepot. People have a tendency to put shit back where it doesn't belong.
 

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if you want some more bang for your buck...get your crank balanced and micro polished....DBL TRIPLE check all ur nuts as you go through your build don't want something that tt8at takes like 10 secs to check cost you your build.
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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mine will be 150 shipped balanced micro polished and sent back to me from laskeyracing.com.....mindless where the hell u find some1 to do it for 60 bucks?
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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mine will be 150 shipped balanced micro polished and sent back to me from laskeyracing.com.....mindless where the hell u find some1 to do it for 60 bucks?
Local machine shop.
 
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