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Discussion Starter #1
hello my name is Alice. I need help with my build plan on my civic. Its a 1996 civic coupe. it has a d16y7. its totally stock right now except for the b&m short shifter. i also have a k&n air filter to install and a injen intake. i already decided to go turbo, na not as fun. Im not sure of what internals to use for my motor. I know i would like to push 275-300 whp (before i install the turbo), what kind of internals should i use? please provide a full detailed build if you can. thanks in advanced ----alice
 

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u can contact FJT on here for vitara pistons (75mm or 75.50mm) with rings for 135 shipped.

i know a lot of people run Tuner Toys rods. but from my experience with the casting id buy Eagle rods or better. u can pick up a set of eagle rods for 3-400 bucks.

use a Toga oil pump on the motor since they tend to be notorius for oil pump failure. http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/toga_oilpumpshonda.html

throw a complete Y8 head on there and u can keep that stock.

and i would also contact Autoworks on here and get their "Tuner Kit" turbo kit.

id run a cometic headgasket

ARP head studs r a must

while your at it i would replace the water pump, timing belt and timing belt tensioner

3" downpipe

id run hondata with the higher hp goals

450cc injectors or bigger (high impedince unless u want to wire up a resistor box)

i dont care what anyone says about the ACL bearings, id run honda OEM bearings for your mains and rods.

u will need to notch your block so your rods wont rub

u can also contact Legal Speed Designs for clutches and flywheels and more turbo accessories.

decent intercooler, dosent have to be a precision, spearco or HKS, but one that will work... the Ebay ones seem to work pretty well. and stay away from side mounts.

replace your seals if u dont want leaks (rear main seal, distributor seal, cam seal, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket etc...)

get a FAL or Maridyne slim fan. do not get O'reillys or cheapo ones. u need to keep the motor cool. u can also upgrade to a B series throttle body, it will bolt right on.

Walbro 255 fuel pump is needed. those r 100-125 bucks

2.5 or 3 bar map sensor

a good boost controller

and someone who can tune well

... im pretty sure i covered most of everything. anyone else chim in if i forgot anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so u think with that setup u mentioned above the block could put out between 275-300 whp before turbo or nos? thanks alot for your help i REALLY appreciated your input.
 

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well im shooting for 300 out of my build aswell... and unless u r a millionaire, u wont get 300 out of a single cam very cheap and especially with that small of a mod list
 

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so u think with that setup u mentioned above the block could put out between 275-300 whp before turbo or nos? thanks alot for your help i REALLY appreciated your input.
With forged internals the block should easily handle 275-300. You not gonna get the whp until you put the turbo on. or nos.
 

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u can contact FJT on here for vitara pistons (75mm or 75.50mm) with rings for 135 shipped.

i know a lot of people run Tuner Toys rods. but from my experience with the casting id buy Eagle rods or better. u can pick up a set of eagle rods for 3-400 bucks.

use a Toga oil pump on the motor since they tend to be notorius for oil pump failure. http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/toga_oilpumpshonda.html

throw a complete Y8 head on there and u can keep that stock.

and i would also contact Autoworks on here and get their "Tuner Kit" turbo kit.

id run a cometic headgasket

ARP head studs r a must

while your at it i would replace the water pump, timing belt and timing belt tensioner

3" downpipe

id run hondata with the higher hp goals

450cc injectors or bigger (high impedince unless u want to wire up a resistor box)

i dont care what anyone says about the ACL bearings, id run honda OEM bearings for your mains and rods.

u will need to notch your block so your rods wont rub

u can also contact Legal Speed Designs for clutches and flywheels and more turbo accessories.

decent intercooler, dosent have to be a precision, spearco or HKS, but one that will work... the Ebay ones seem to work pretty well. and stay away from side mounts.

replace your seals if u dont want leaks (rear main seal, distributor seal, cam seal, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket etc...)

get a FAL or Maridyne slim fan. do not get O'reillys or cheapo ones. u need to keep the motor cool. u can also upgrade to a B series throttle body, it will bolt right on.

Walbro 255 fuel pump is needed. those r 100-125 bucks

2.5 or 3 bar map sensor

a good boost controller

and someone who can tune well

... im pretty sure i covered most of everything. anyone else chim in if i forgot anything.
"
This list sums it up should hit your goal with no problem and the last thing listed says it all. And someone who can tune well.
 

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u can contact FJT on here for vitara pistons (75mm or 75.50mm) with rings for 135 shipped.

i know a lot of people run Tuner Toys rods. but from my experience with the casting id buy Eagle rods or better. u can pick up a set of eagle rods for 3-400 bucks.

use a Toga oil pump on the motor since they tend to be notorius for oil pump failure. http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/toga_oilpumpshonda.html

throw a complete Y8 head on there and u can keep that stock.

and i would also contact Autoworks on here and get their "Tuner Kit" turbo kit.

id run a cometic headgasket

ARP head studs r a must

while your at it i would replace the water pump, timing belt and timing belt tensioner

3" downpipe

id run hondata with the higher hp goals

450cc injectors or bigger (high impedince unless u want to wire up a resistor box)

i dont care what anyone says about the ACL bearings, id run honda OEM bearings for your mains and rods.

u will need to notch your block so your rods wont rub

u can also contact Legal Speed Designs for clutches and flywheels and more turbo accessories.

decent intercooler, dosent have to be a precision, spearco or HKS, but one that will work... the Ebay ones seem to work pretty well. and stay away from side mounts.

replace your seals if u dont want leaks (rear main seal, distributor seal, cam seal, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket etc...)

get a FAL or Maridyne slim fan. do not get O'reillys or cheapo ones. u need to keep the motor cool. u can also upgrade to a B series throttle body, it will bolt right on.

Walbro 255 fuel pump is needed. those r 100-125 bucks

2.5 or 3 bar map sensor

a good boost controller

and someone who can tune well

... im pretty sure i covered most of everything. anyone else chim in if i forgot anything.

print this off and start buying thats all you need and you will be GOLDEN. FJT has a godly deal with pistons rings bearings and every seal you will need top to bottom for like 319 shipped. seeing that you are gonna dive into the block replace all the seals and take ur crank to a machine shop and have it machined and balanced. DEF get rid of that Y7 head that virticle tb is mad homo trying to get a bend for IC piping


what kinda boost controller is good im looking now for my build and not sure of a good brand
 

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Discussion Starter #9
With forged internals the block should easily handle 275-300. You not gonna get the whp until you put the turbo on. or nos.
well the only forged internal i know of would be the pistons. what else should be forged? also i would really like to thank you all for your help especially slok :holla: . did you build this yet slok? i was just wonderin if its as fun to drive as a DOHC b4 i drop the money for the parts.
 

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R2.....Zap Balls
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With forged internals the block should easily handle 275-300. You not gonna get the whp until you put the turbo on. or nos.
:werd:

well the only forged internal i know of would be the pistons. what else should be forged? also i would really like to thank you all for your help especially slok :holla: . did you build this yet slok? i was just wonderin if its as fun to drive as a DOHC b4 i drop the money for the parts.
it's going to be slower than a DOHC before turbo, especially if you go with vitararas, they're going to drop your compression to around 8.5/1. I just got done with my build and getting ready to take it to the dyno and see what it will do. Eagle rods, Wiseco pistons, block guard, Skunk 2 intake manifold, 60mm throttle body, autoworks pro mini ram, t3/t4 .60 .63 50 trim turbo, 3" down pipe, tuner toys 660cc injectors, 3 bar map sensor, walboro fuel pump. This was all in a Z6 though, I plan on hitting 350 or more at the wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i know this is a d-series forum so plz dont flame me (i never even considered a
d series build untill about 2 days ago). my original setup called for:
gsr build
85mm bore
Golden eagle sleeves
10.3:1 Supertech pistons
Pauter Rods
stock crank
AEBS main studs
Supertech valves and springs
Golden Eagle head gasket
AEBS head studs
Maxworx V1 Turbo camshafts.
Garrett GT42R turbocharger
custom manifold
NLR AMS-1000 electronic boost control (really good for manual boost control)
HKS GT2 60mm wastegate
4" piping
Precision AS1026 intercooler
BDL 72mm throttle body
Edelbrock intake manifold
MSD 96lbs/hr injectors
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump
MSD Digital 6 ignition amplifier
NGK plugs
NepTune fuel management
pwr radiator
i know there will be a big difference in price as well as hp in the build listed above and the one suggested below, but due to family problems i had to sell the gsr block i had to build as well as spend most of the money i got for it and my savings. I have about 1500 right now, is it practical to attempt the build below with that money (only the block no turbo/accessories/transmission yet) ? My goal is to build the motor up completely to where i want it then add the turbo when i can(financially), but i dont want to have to re-open the motor. thanks for your imput.

u can contact FJT on here for vitara pistons (75mm or 75.50mm) with rings for 135 shipped.

i know a lot of people run Tuner Toys rods. but from my experience with the casting id buy Eagle rods or better. u can pick up a set of eagle rods for 3-400 bucks.

use a Toga oil pump on the motor since they tend to be notorius for oil pump failure. http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/toga_oilpumpshonda.html

throw a complete Y8 head on there and u can keep that stock.

and i would also contact Autoworks on here and get their "Tuner Kit" turbo kit.

id run a cometic headgasket

ARP head studs r a must

while your at it i would replace the water pump, timing belt and timing belt tensioner

3" downpipe

id run hondata with the higher hp goals

450cc injectors or bigger (high impedince unless u want to wire up a resistor box)

i dont care what anyone says about the ACL bearings, id run honda OEM bearings for your mains and rods.

u will need to notch your block so your rods wont rub

u can also contact Legal Speed Designs for clutches and flywheels and more turbo accessories.

decent intercooler, dosent have to be a precision, spearco or HKS, but one that will work... the Ebay ones seem to work pretty well. and stay away from side mounts.

replace your seals if u dont want leaks (rear main seal, distributor seal, cam seal, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket etc...)

get a FAL or Maridyne slim fan. do not get O'reillys or cheapo ones. u need to keep the motor cool. u can also upgrade to a B series throttle body, it will bolt right on.

Walbro 255 fuel pump is needed. those r 100-125 bucks

2.5 or 3 bar map sensor

a good boost controller

and someone who can tune well

... im pretty sure i covered most of everything. anyone else chim in if i forgot anything.
 

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hmmmm i think it could be are you gonna do the building?

pistons and rings and bearings and all gaskets cost 319 shipped
if u do tuner toys rods-299.99 or something close to it
balancing and micro-polishing crank is like 100 at machine shop and they might do notching in that 100 bucks
then need to figure out what kinda turbo you wanna use
450 cc injectors 50
fuel pump 100 bucks
Y8 head 125-175 used


im doing my build and its gonna run about 1500-1750. that is with

T3/T4 turbo ching chong meow-150
knock off greddy BOV-50
knock off tial W.G-50
intercooler-80
DIY IC pipes-55
TT rods-299
vitarias/bearings/gaskets/water pump-319
ARP headstuds-108
P28 ecu-100
cast mani-100
tune 75 bucks a hour
oil lines-90
 

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take ur crank to a machine shop and have it machined and balanced.
DO NOT have your rod or main journals machined PERIOD. if u do, u just wasted money at a machine shop and fucked up your crank. if u have a bad crank (scratched up real bad/spun bearing whatever.) get another D16 crank. they r all the same. i am going to run a Y8 crank in my Z6 motor becuase my crank was fucked up.

but i would agree to get the crank balanced, it will help with reving. it will be faster and smoother.
 

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u don't fuck up ur crank getting it micro polished.micro polishing is pretty-much putting your crank on a machine that polishes the rod journals. making them smooth for the rod bearings reducing friction, and reducing temps on the crankshaft
 

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valentine- i have not yet completed my build. my build will consist of:

D16Z6
vitara 75.5mm pistons
eagle H beam rods
arp head studs
OEM oil pump
OEM water pump
OEM timing belt tentioner
OEM rod and main bearings
delta stage 1 cam
Cometic head gasket (.030 75.5mm)
Y8 intake manifold
LS throttle body
greddy turbo manifold
XS power 38mm wastegate
Tial 12psi spring
ebay 50/63 T3/T4 turbo
walbro 255 fuel pump
650cc injectors
maridyne slim fan
3 bar map sensor
3" downpipe
topspeed bov
hondata S100
... and more

also heres a nice little video of a turbo D http://videos.streetfire.net/video/ae8ebb37-bd4d-48ea-b453-9845010918c1.htm
 

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u don't fuck up ur crank getting it micro polished.micro polishing is pretty-much putting your crank on a machine that polishes the rod journals. making them smooth for the rod bearings reducing friction, and reducing temps on the crankshaft
im not saying that. im talking about having it milled/cut/reground after it being scuffed up real bad. micropolishing isnt a bad thing at all
 

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im not saying that. im talking about having it milled/cut/reground after it being scuffed up real bad. micropolishing isnt a bad thing at all
o ok i took it the wrong way my bad yo
 

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i know there will be a big difference in price as well as hp in the build listed above and the one suggested below, but due to family problems i had to sell the gsr block i had to build as well as spend most of the money i got for it and my savings. I have about 1500 right now, is it practical to attempt the build below with that money (only the block no turbo/accessories/transmission yet) ? My goal is to build the motor up completely to where i want it then add the turbo when i can(financially), but i dont want to have to re-open the motor. thanks for your imput.
no, do not attempt to built it yet. 1500 will not get you what you need to actually assemble the built. you can start with parts, but actually tearing down the block would not be recommened. it takes a lot of money to convert everything you need to turbo a y7 block. i.e. IM has to go, trans has to go, wire harness conversions, etc.

here is my last build (sold it two weeks ago):
96 y7 block
stock oil pump (new "revision" oil pump from honda)
99 stock y7 head
edlebrock IM
b16 TB
srp 9:1 pistons (.020 over)
tuner toys h-beam rods
oem y8 HG
arp head studs
prostreet 11 lb flywheel
lsd motorsports clutch
rc 550cc injectors
chipped P06
(iirc) 24x10x3 intercooler
greddy 96-00 fmic piping kit
ebay special 57 trim turbo (14k miles on it and no shaft play, strange right?)
ebay special cast manifold with wg neck
turbonetics deltagate wg
3in dp and exhaust w/ vibrant flat black street muffler (3 in 3 out)
golden eagle y7/y8 block guard
obx lsd version 3
greddy type-s/r bov
stealthmode oil feed and drain
acl bearings
stock axles
turboxs bc
93 si trans

^~4 grand to build. imo, do not ditch the y7 head and do not add vtec to the block. it has (and always will) be debated as to which is better. i had no oil pressure issues with my y7 w/o vtec. imo, adding vtec adds a strain on the oil pump, which is already a poor pump.

btw: micro polishing can be very bad in the hands of a "weak" machine shop. if they don't clean out the oiling holes throughly, sh!t goes bad quick fast and in a hurry.
 
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