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Humble is the worst recommendation anyone could ever make. If you want a professional tune remotely, contact speedfactory. If your interested in Neptune products, I am a dealer. I can also remote tune. I will recommend a lot of bigger name guys to you if you wish, however humble is not on that list.
Why is that?
Alex is one of the few people in this area that wont screw you over and tunes for people around the world. So he obviously is doing something right.
So why the hate on Humble? I have only had the best experiences with him and his current staff.
 

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I havent heard any bad things about Humble.

Best you back up that negative statement.

If its something legit, its a welcome piece of information for the forum.

If its horseshit and perhaps YOU caused some sort of reaction on their part, man up and dont drag their name through the dirt.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I don't Think I need a tuner yet, and I'm sure I could find someone local who could at least get me a basic tune. I still need suggestions for parts because I can't decide on a few things. First Bearings, King or ACL, Should I run standard or Race for boost? Also I need a new turbo, I would like to run and eBay GT35 GT3582 but others say no Chinese crap. Also I can't decide if eBay parts like Head Gaskets are bad, Some say they work some say OEM is the only option. A memeber told me to run a Y8 Head Gasket and there is a MLS one on eBay for 11$ while the OEM is around 50$. I've decided on running 75mm YCP's on SpeedFactory NO NOTCH long rods. But nobody has any reviews for these rods and I don't want to do any notching PERIOD(lack of experience). Also where could I get A Hondata S300 for a good price at? MY first thought is eBay, and you have to consider this is all on a budget.
 

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OEM honda d16y8 headgasket and ARP head studs are a great combo for boost. And under $200 overall. An easy price to swallow for trouble free compression control.

If you cannot drop the head off at a shop to be milled flat, be sure to properly use some copper gasket spray. It is not just a spray and bolt on thing. And there is such a thing as too much copper spray!
 

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Make sure with both the King or ACL bearings, that you are getting the Race versions of either of them. I noticed you had King bearings in your parts list for $30. Unless you got a heck of a deal, the race versions are usually found between $80 and $100 on ebay. If you are on ebay, and the listing says New and free shipping for $30, I'd almost bet that these are definitely the cheaper non-race OEM versions.

ACL and King both make standard OE spec main and rod bearings for lots of different OEMs around the world, but the "sleep good at night" feeling comes from knowing you have good quality tri-metal bearings that have some form of racing R&D behind their creation. I am personally using ACL race bearings in this build, known lots of folks who have used either manufacturer's race lineup and have not really ever had any problems.

The key to being nice to the bearings is a sound oiling system (make sure everything is clean, use a high quality oil, etc) and a good tune.
 

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you do not need race bearings in a daily driver that isnt making crazy horsepower

OEM bearings are far better quality than *much* of the aftermarket.

Ive never seen an aftermarket "race" bearing last 300k+ miles

But my seriously abused and neglected accord with over 300k miles still makes great oil pressure and doesnt tick, even after discovering the valvetrain was a total sludge carpet when I got the car initially and attempted to do a valve lash adjustment.

Im giving it a few more short interval oil changes before I re-attempt.

Heck, when I got the car, it didnt even have oil showing on the dipstick AFTER driving across town to where I picked it up.


You dont need to spend money on fancy oil.

Something simple like mobil1 is plenty sufficient.

Heck, I put nearly 300k miles on my first civic with its d15b2, using only Supertech 10w30 and supertech filters from walmart.

That motor did not burn any oil even with nearly 340k miles on the clock when I sold it. I simply made it a point to change the fluids at good intervals and more often when I was driving it harsher or more in city style traffic.
 

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My Z6 currently in build phase is as follows:
Stock 75mm bore
Stock crank/girdle
Golden Eagle block guard
Mild head port
Brian Crower stage 2 Y8 turbo cam
Brian Crower upgraded valve springs and retainers
AEM tru-time adjustable cam gear
YCP Vitara pistons 75mm
Speedfactory Racing long no notch rods
ACL main/rod bearings and thrust washers
ARP head studs
Cometic 75.5mm .051" MLS head gasket
Turbonetics Super 60 T3 turbo
Hondata boost control solenoid
Ebay 255lph fuel pump
Unknown injectors at the moment (probably will get 550cc or more)
Unknown FPR (most likely getting an AEM)

I plan for this all to be paired with a generic ebay turbo kit that has the cast log manifold (T3 flange), and just replace things like wastegate, bov etc as they fail. I won't use the crappy turbo so it shouldn't be too bad. Tuned on P28 with Hondata S300v3 on 93 pump gas. I'm shooting for 300whp to start but would be happy with 250.
 
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