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Discussion Starter #1
my car is a 90 crx si,
i had my car at a suspension, alignment & frame shop after a balljoint busted on me, and got lower drivers balljoint replaced, a driver side CV axle and rear trailing arm bushings, and he also checked everything else out and made a list of everything that was bad and needed to be replaced. it said both front lower control arms were bent, even know i just got new ones in 2012, and i need to see for myself exactly how bent they are?, cause they might just be slightly bent, but don't think i need to replace them right away, he just puts anything that is'nt perfect for him to be able to do a
proper alignment, but does'nt always mean they are all things i must replace just cause he lists them.

he also said i need 2 adjustable radius rods along with new bushings for them, and i asked why, and said its cause my front wheels are pushed far back in the wheel wells, and to be able and adjust to center them in the wheel wells.

then i read on other posts that another option would be for me to get a machine shop to extend the threads of the radius rods, and would be able to have room to be able to adjust them with the extra thread on them, and be cheaper than buying adjustable radius rods.

so i need to decide which would be the better one to do?, and i need to get a price quote from machine shop for how much to extend the threads of the radius rods? and compare to price to buy adjustable radius rods ?,
when i searched all over google for adjustable radius rods for my car, i could'nt find anything at all barely ?, just some for some domestic cars was the closest i found, but none when searching with the word "honda" ? so not sure where i would even get those anyway ?

anyone know where to get adjustable radius rods for honda crx or civic's ?
or anyone have any info about extending the threads of the radius rods or anything ? thanks
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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Discussion Starter #3
i usually trust them, it is a good shop compared to most, and they are only specialised in doing suspension, frame and alignment, and the main guy who works on it and is the owner has over 25 yrs experience, and i've had good experience the 2 other times i had my car with them, really i did'nt make the post to ask if it seemed right or not, i was wanting to find more info out about adjustable radius rods and to get opinions if getting the radius rod's threads extended was a better alternative ?

my tie rods have been replaced in 2007, along with new steering rack (well, remanufactured), replaced control arms in 2012, upper balljoint on pass side, just got rear trailing arm bushings put in, but i think i hit something cause he said my lower control arms were bent again !, its hard to not hit stuff sometimes in a little low car.
 

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I know its possible but it takes a hell of a lot to bend the front lower control arms, they are forged steel. The subframe would must likely be damaged if the control arms were hit that hard.

No need to have a machine shop cut new threads. That is a easy DIY with a die from Amazon.
 

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Meat Popsicle
91 CRX Si
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Bent lower control arms?? Both of them??

That sounds like BS man.

Also, you can only add negative caster with the stock radius rods by shimming them. No way to add positive caster without a traction bar with adjustable radius rods.

Unless you hit or drove over a curb at speed, I have a hard time believing that there as legitimate issues with the suspension given what you've said you replaced
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i really don't understand all the terminology such as camber, caster, etc... i just know it has something to do with how the wheel tilts either out from the top or out from the bottom (or i think),

actually not real long ago i did do something dumb, i was on a road which goes over the highway, and there was a short exit to get on the highway right before going over the overpass bridge, but was confused cause there was 2 exits to get on 2 different highways and its easy to miss the exit and i missed it, then had to go over the bridge and way down the road and make u-turn, then come back the other way over the bridge and make another u-turn and head back towards the exit again, but then i missed it a second time, and said "fuck it", and stopped quick and reversed, then popped the curb and drove over the grass median and then popped off the curb of the median onto the exit, and it did hit or scrape going off the last curb, and saw mud & grass around one of the front tow hooks, but only thing that might of done is bent the bottom of the front x-member just slightly but not enough to affect anything, or scrape muffler stuff or resonator or something, but i would'nt think that could bend the lower control arms since they are back further ? but i can't remember how low they hang towards the bottom near the road?

i need to stop having bad judgement like that and messing up my car, and need to realise that its a small car thats low to the ground and is a front wheel drive car and that its really sensitive when it comes to hitting stuff and it does'nt take much to bend suspension components and get it all out of line.

so your saying i just need to get a tap & die set at harbor freight or something, and just create my own threads on the ends of the radius rods ? i don't know why that other post i read about doing that said need machine shop to do it?,

i need a tap & die set anyway, i'm not sure how much i would need to extend the threads, but when i looked at the ends of my radius rods, it looks like theres around 1"-2" extra of threads that goes out past the nut that holds everything down, so i know theres some extra, but really i just need to read and understand how adjusting them works exactly ? i just know the radius rods bolt down to the top of the lower control arms with 2 bolts, and at the other end, they bolt to the front of the front cross-member, with a couple rubber bushings between, and has a nut over the threads on the very front tightened over them. but need to figure out how you go about adjusting them to move the front wheels either forward or backward in the wheel well ???, maybe turning the nut on the very front tighter or loosen it?, or loosen the 2 bolts where its on the control arm, and move a little back or forward, then re-tighten the bolts?, etc ...
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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tie rods do NOT move you wheels forward or backwards. they deal with the toe. fix the bent shit first then figure out your alignment. like I said, sounds fishy. what can it hurt to take it to another shop and play dumb and see what they tell you
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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They don't make adjustable rods. If tires are set back in the wheelwell the rod bushings are likely toast AND the LCA's are bent. LCA bend very easy.
 

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Asshole
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tie rods do NOT move you wheels forward or backwards. they deal with the toe. fix the bent shit first then figure out your alignment. like I said, sounds fishy. what can it hurt to take it to another shop and play dumb and see what they tell you
Slo stop. You don't know what he's talking about. 88-91 civic use radius rods to control the lca movement. 92+ don't

OP replace the lcas and stop running into curbs.
 

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Meat Popsicle
91 CRX Si
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Unless you hit or drove over a curb
...actually not real long ago i did do something dumb

...said "fuck it", and stopped quick and reversed, then popped the curb and drove over the grass median

...it did hit or scrape going off the last curb

...i need to stop having bad judgement like that and messing up my car

The truth comes out!

You bent or broke something, you're not going to fix it correctly by using a die to cut threads.

Fix what's broken and quit, as you said, doing dumb stuff
 

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Discussion Starter #11
that was a rare impulse thing, and it was'nt a big curb, just a low shallow curb, and i did'nt go all fast, i went carefully and slowly over it into the soft grass and off the curb at the other side, the only time it scraped was going off the curb coming off of it, but i was going real slow, but i think it was scraping along the front cross member and not sure if scraped my exhaust resonator too maybe?, i am starting to just want to go back to stock crx springs, cause they were designed to have that ride height for a reason, so theres a normal amount of clearance, for normal every day driving situations, (i'm not saying its normal doing what i did going over that median), but getting sick of scraping stuff or having to go all carefully over stuff, when i only got a mild .75" drop on my springs, but have gotten way lower over the 11 yrs i've had them on, and seems more like 1.5"-2" drop.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
maybe i'm getting to the point where i'm finally realising i can't just be only driving crx's, cause i've only had crx's, since 91, i bet i am subconsiously craving to have a secondary vehicle, something more rugged that you can go over medians like that without worrying, just cause i've driven crx's so long that i am starting to notice all the limitations they have, but i can't afford to have 2 vehicles,

my friends think i'm stupid for doing so, but i passed when my parents offered me to have their old cherokee, it was a nice one but had no a/c and trans problems, and other things needing fixing, but reason i said no was they offered it only if i got rid of my crx, and when it came down to it, i rather would choose the crx, just cause its a fun car to drive, and the cherokee is just a plain suv thats not fun to drive even know its newer and more practical, its just not me, or at least not yet. plus to me they are'nt as reliable as hondas even know it was a newer model than mine, and another reason is cause i'm not familiar with working on domestics and i'm too used to working on hondas so i'm just more comfortable with it.
 
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