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I Have A 91 CRX Dx, with the stock d15b2. I would like to mod the motor, but i dont know if thats a good platform to start with. The other dilemma is if i swap motors i want it to be a D- non-vetc and i want to retain the stock a/c system.. What to do?? i want my car to have getup and go, without spending a ton of money!! Thanks for the help! :bandito:
 

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crx
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if you want to get any power first thing you got to do is convert to MPFI. the crx is so light having a D15 wouldnt affect much. i was lucky to have picked up an Si with a rebuilt D16. if i would have had a D15 i would have still worked with it. so far just going with a Z6 head and obd-1 conversion has made me pretty happy. you can also go with high comp pistons(im running PM7's from an integra) there are also aftermarket cams as well. i highly receomend going vtec you get a lot of low end power as well as high end power. d16 vtec on a car as light as a crx is a great combo.


i have a Z6 manifold, chipped obd-0 ecu, and A6 distributer that can be used to convert to MPFI. ill give you a good price.

i have an A6 head also but im suppose to have a buyer come pick it up today.
 

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You should stay with the D16A6. D inosaur as I call it, because it's a non-vtec. Gasket match and port and polish the head. A good valve job and a regrind cam can get you a little more power. Head work makes a lot of power. The 89 integra PG7 ECU can give you 1000 more RPM top end. You can have A/C on a turbo car, but you gotta get the Edlebrock manifold. Or something equivalent. If going N/A then high compression pistons and ITB's is the only way to make good power.
 

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crx
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he said he has the stock d15b2. if you want more power for the $ go turbo. im going the HF manifold/dsm route, t25 to start than upgrade to a 16g later on.
 

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didnt know that, my bad. is it cause of the diferent rod length and deck height?
yeah pretty much. the stock b2 pm3 pistons have a comp height of 30.7mm and the pm7 has a 29mm comp height. and the pm3 pistons are of great design for n/a high comp build good quench and burn with a little work on the head
 

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Yes he did say D15B2. There are not a whole lot of options for the B2. Everyone is saying VTEC swap, or everyone will be saying VTEC swap eventually. I say stay with the D16A6. Meaning get that one. It's clear that he wants more power so he is going to be doing the MPFI swap soon. So if he's robbing A6 parts for the MPFI swap. Why not just snag the whole motor. He obviously stated that he is spoiled and wants to keep the A/C. It's freakin hot, and I don't blame him. So I was throwing options out there. Cheap motor to build would be the A6, Y8 IM, Z6 EM, PG7 ECU, A6 harnesses and dizzy, H22 VTEC FI, Eagle H Beam Rods and SRP pistons, ACL or King Bearings, always use the Honda MLS headgasket. I blew 6 perma torque headgaskets before finally going to Honda. I definatley recomend building the bottom end while you have the motor sitting around. You never know what you want to do later as far as mods go.
 

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Yes he did say D15B2. There are not a whole lot of options for the B2. Everyone is saying VTEC swap, or everyone will be saying VTEC swap eventually. I say stay with the D16A6. Meaning get that one. It's clear that he wants more power so he is going to be doing the MPFI swap soon. So if he's robbing A6 parts for the MPFI swap. Why not just snag the whole motor. He obviously stated that he is spoiled and wants to keep the A/C. It's freakin hot, and I don't blame him. So I was throwing options out there. Cheap motor to build would be the A6, Y8 IM, Z6 EM, PG7 ECU, A6 harnesses and dizzy, H22 VTEC FI, Eagle H Beam Rods and SRP pistons, ACL or King Bearings, always use the Honda MLS headgasket. I blew 6 perma torque headgaskets before finally going to Honda. I definatley recomend building the bottom end while you have the motor sitting around. You never know what you want to do later as far as mods go.
there is alot of options for a b2 and not many are gonna say to switch to vtec only the inexperianced will say that vtec is needed. you can build a 130- 140hp maybe more b2 cheap with the stock pistons and rods. now i dont disagree that a d16 is capable of more power but on a budget a b2/b7 can be very fun
 

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Yea, I didn't say no options. There are some. 130-140hp is a waste of time. Now I would say D16Z6 for that one. Then all you need is a Z6 engine, Y8 IM, cold air intake, header, and some decent exhaust for 130-140hp. MPFI swap, ECU, piggy back harness. Maybe I'm confused on the budget part. I was thinking $500-$1000 is a budget build. So, hey Red Rex.... how much is the budget? I made 220WHP on $1000 turbo build.
 

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well my budget b2 build n/a is a stock type rebuild with new rings bearings and gasket in the bottom end cost me 116 to do bottom end. cleaned checked and ported oil pump free just my time, cleaned up piston crown's so no sharp edges for helping to fight detonation free. crane cam $150, cam gear $50, isky springs and locators $100, head milled .060 $30, port work free, and arp head studs 45. so for under 500 i built a very fun easy to tune and very reliably d15b2 should put down at least 130 with proper tune maybe more. and i know its cheap and easy to get hp from boost but thats not my style i like to work for my ponies
 

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I personally would get a d16a6 used for cheap and rebuild that. Slap on a z6 manifold, take some meat off the head and block for clean surfaces and use a y8 headgasket to get the compression up. Then throw all your normal bolt-ons at it (i/h/e). that'd be a pretty sick reliable build with some torque.
 

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Oh no, I hear you Hatchaddict. I'm just sayin. You did yours for $491.00. You didn't list the MPFI swap, exhaust, etc... But he has to do the MPFI. $150 for the harness, $30 ECU, $100 new A6 dizzy, $45 for IM with injectors. = $325. You can pick up an A6 or Z6 engine for $150 comes with IM, injectors, and Dizzy, and some times the engine harness, Engine Harness $100, ECU Harness $100, ECU $30. = $280-$380
 

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Oh no, I hear you Hatchaddict. I'm just sayin. You did yours for $491.00. You didn't list the MPFI swap, exhaust, etc... But he has to do the MPFI. $150 for the harness, $30 ECU, $100 new A6 dizzy, $45 for IM with injectors. = $325. You can pick up an A6 or Z6 engine for $150 comes with IM, injectors, and Dizzy, and some times the engine harness, Engine Harness $100, ECU Harness $100, ECU $30. = $280-$380
well yeah i didnt add that stuff in cause thats all stuff i would do myself i build my own exhausts and do my own harness stuff and the rest of the stuff is easily sorced from junkyard for around a 100 total. and your not gonna find a z6 or a6 in good running condition for 150 anymore well at least not around here ive been looking for a good z6 crank for 2yrs now and cant find one for under 100 plus shipping
 

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I can go to pick and pull right now and get three. Well, if it wasn't so freakin hot outside. The whole engine for $150.
 

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$50.98 for the crank from Pick and Pull. Not sure what shipping would be. Then my labor to get out in this Oh my God how hot can it get day. Damn ninja, you're looking at $1000.00 shipped. If I go any time soon, I'll see how bad it's going to be, and snag you one.
 

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i say just boost what you got. i did the vtec swap and i decided that boosted woudl get me more bang for the buck. i was lookign at going all motor to get moe power from my A6/Z6 combo and decided boosting it would get me more bang for the buck. even though ill have to pull the pm7's and drop in P28's to lower the compression. it may take me a whiel to gather up parts and save money for a godo dyno tune but you can get good stuff on a budget. for example a hf manifold $15 shipped, t25 $75 shipped, oil feed kit $27 shipped, adpater to make the oil feed kit fit $15 shipped. i get a few things every time i get paid. or you coudl just grab an ebay kit all at once.

your first step should definately be to convert to MPFI.
 
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