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hey guys i was interested in building an all motor d17a2 with an occasional 50 shot of NO2. keep in mind i will be using a Megasquirt EFI unit. I am about to order civic GX pistons, which have a 12.5:1 comp. ratio....now this is really high for nitrous correct, if so i will drop the nitrous and will this compression be good for daily driving? second if i run RSX injectors, will i need to run a return line for the fuel system or will it just be better to go ahead and do. i will be using a walboro 255 fuel pump. i will be ordering stage 2 cams and valve springs in about three weeks after they arrive, its to the machine shop for port and polish with 3 angle valve job. me and a friend will be attempting to build an intake manifold, keeping the center mounted throttle body and using a mustang throttle body. now will it be ok to use short runners, bc there is no room in our chasis for long runners if we want to keep the center mounted throttle body. what is the shortest you guys would go? or does it really matter? i will then port match the intake and exhaust ports to the gaskets. i know NA d17s are scarce and challenging but i think you can get some good numbers if ya open the head and port the exhaust ports. oh yea, which head gasket would yall recommend, is oem good enough with arp studs
 

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Well you will have many problems if you do it your way. If you plan on running nitrous on 12.5:1 comp ratio you need to ge forged. The smartest thing you could do is get a skunk2 intake manifold the swap can be done in 2-3 hours and it comes with in cast nitrous bungs. The cams and valves sould good but you also need an adjustable cam gear. Go aem cai, and when you undo the head i reccomend highly a cosmetic head gasket with arp's. YOu need to get them off the z6. 12.5:1 is high compression so make sure its tuned good on 91 or 93. Definitely get the skunk2 and fuel line.
 

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going with IM with pre cast holes for N2 is definitely the way to go. ARP studs are simply not needed for an N/A application. stock studs and bolts are fine. 12.5:1 is simply too high dude , specially with as much lift as youl be running. 11:1 maybe , 11.5:1 tops. you want it to still run clean on pump gas. shitty idle youl have with that much lift as well so be prepared.
 
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thanks for the info guys! yeah i figured 12.5 was too high, so nitrous is out, i would rather go all motor anyways...also how thick of a head gasket, oem? i know the thickness of the head gasket can play a role in compression also. so are stage 2 cams too much for daily driving? i am about to order them this week, i really dont care about lumpy idle, just reliability and drivability. So going completely N/A, GX pistons would be ok with stage 2 cams? with a great tune that is. does anybody know any great tuners in texas?
 
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thanks for the info guys! yeah i figured 12.5 was too high, so nitrous is out, i would rather go all motor anyways...also how thick of a head gasket, oem? i know the thickness of the head gasket can play a role in compression also. so are stage 2 cams too much for daily driving? i am about to order them this week, i really dont care about lumpy idle, just reliability and drivability. So going completely N/A, GX pistons would be ok with stage 2 cams? with a great tune that is. does anybody know any great tuners in texas?
 

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Hey -hondahoodlum-.

Are goin to buy new piston rongs too? (I think the answer is YES). And what about the rod bearings, and the crank bearings. I heard from someone if you rise the compression and the bearings aren't so good the engine can be damaged (about a 5.0L mustang, he said).
 

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its very possible. although honda engines are way tougher than any domestic engine. you can run 11.9 pistons with an OEM head gasket. stage 2 cams(watch out for proper relief) , and still run supreme pump gas. your gonna need headwork though. 3 angle valve job , some mild porting(not too much , velocity is just as important as volume). im not sure if youd need hardened valve seats for that setup or not its possible. that be a good working car dude. your gonna need more fuel delivered to run a setup like that though and not much for our generation out there. AEM ems is pretty much your only option and there big bucks. i think greddy makes an emanage for us as well , cheaper but not as good of course(no comparison between standalone and piggy back). but youl need bigger injectors most likely to run that setup as well , but maybe not im not 100% on that. still learing about 7th gens.
 

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yes and for custom valve relief. companys like crower for one , can custom grind you a cam even , if you wanna pay for it , with whatever lift and duration you want to run. N/A setups tend to be medium lift(how far the valve opens) , long duration(how long it stays open). turbo setups on the other hand since air is forced in , cam profiles tend to be higher lift , shorter duration. this being of course since air is being forced instead of piston breathing the air in , it doesnt take the full stroke of the piston to get a full breath shall we say.
 
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How much whp will you get with the crower stage 2 cam?
 

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well its complicated i think first you need to unleash power before you make it. YOu need the return line and horizontal im. You also need a hell of a port of a polish and maybe ferrea's 1 over valves. I sure as hell hope you can wrench.
 

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Why not?
it definitely has as much potential as any other d-series engine. The intake manifold is a big important part of this too. People dump money into n/a d16's why not a stroked version. YOu just dont think so because of the lack of aftermarket support. You wait and see the d17 will become a well liked engine once the fuel kit and intake manifold come out. You said 20whp thats more than youll gain with another motor. You said it yourself someone just needs to dyno the cam and intake manifold.
 
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