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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I'm looking to do a d-series n/a build on a budget. I'll have probably 5k to spend on the entire setup, so here's kind of what I'm thinking:

Z6 Swap - $600
Skunk2 Exhaust - $600
Skunk2 Camgear - $150
Skunk2 IM - $300
Skunk2 68MM TB - $400
Supertech Valvesprings/Retainers - $350
Exospeed Stage 3 Z6/Y8 Camshaft - $260
Megan Racing Header - $200
AEM Fuel Rail - $170
AEM CAI - $280
Arias 11:5:1 Pistons - $475
Eagle Rods w/ ARP Rod bolts - $400
ACT Clutch - $500

Total - $4685. Leaves a few hundred dollars for gaskets, seals, oil, fluids, belts, etc.

Some people may ask why I'm throwing this much money at a N/A build when I could go turbo for less......well, I still live w/ my parents and I'm going to college next year, and my dad knows quite a bit about engines. If he were to look at the car and see a turbo or FMIC, they would kill me. Plus, i need something that will last me for 5 or so years. I don't know if a FI motor could do that.

So just for giggles, anybody care to guess how much hp to the wheels this thing would net me? Goal would be 160+, but whatever.....
 

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Everything looks ok... cept a few things:

Skunk2 Exhaust - $600 - Unless you really like the look of the Skunk2 exhaust, you could have something custom made for like 1/3 the price and it will make the same HP.

Skunk2 68MM TB - $400 - Waist of $$$, if you want something bigger, get a stock TB from a b-series.

AEM Fuel Rail - $170 - Again... unless you REALLY like the look, a waist of $$$. Your stock rail will work fine.

ACT Clutch - $500 - I hope you get a flywheel too for that price. =)

The money you just saved can go towards head porting. You'll be happy.
 

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Open header gets old fast... everything in the car will vibrate like mad and you'll go deaf in a few weeks, keep some kind of exhaust on the car, even if its just piping going out the back.

A good port and polish will run you about $800 ++
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok, sounds good. how much power to the wheels would i be making? my secret goal is to hit 12's n/a d-series, but i seriously doubt that. i'm hoping for 13's with this build on street tires.
 

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i wouldn't go forged internals on a single cam all motor for one u are just adding eight that is not needed and to u will not make enough power to take advantage of them go with stock rods with arp rod bolts and p29 pistons u will get more compression and only spend about $150-$200 and still be just as reliable

i notice u r getting a aem intake biggest rip off get a good filter like a apexi if u want to spend money and any piping from ebay will b fine

i think everything else was covered in the thread good luck
 

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and remember... open header isn't always a good thing... for boost - possibly. but there was always the thing about "length" tuning. someone a while back posted how they gained alot of midrange HP by adding some piping after the header - rather than just open header. from "bone" - the cai makes power not because of the so-called-cold-air, but because of the length of the pipe.

so... stick with 2.25" or 2.5" for a nice n/a setup. and research some more... there's some nice info on n/a setups on here and h-t.
 

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z6/a6 mini me. methanol injection high comp pistons big cam. smsp header valvetrain upgrade and port work to help that cam. ... and itb's. better power for less money. no tb no fuel rail no intake manifold. gripforce makes a good clutch and comes with a fidanza flywheel. this is what i would do for a budget n/a build. and get it tuned and let er rip as high as she makes power. rods arent needed but rod bolts couldnt hurt if your gonna up the revs. and you can have a muffler shop custom make you what you want. no need for a brand new exhaust either. if its a budget get one used. they work the same. .... just some thoughts. oh and i said a6 head because of the non vtec where in you can use a wilder cam and not worry about any conflicts.
 

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Z6 Swap - $600
Skunk2 Exhaust - $600
Skunk2 Camgear - $150
Skunk2 IM - $300
Skunk2 68MM TB - $400
Supertech Valvesprings/Retainers - $350
Exospeed Stage 3 Z6/Y8 Camshaft - $260
Megan Racing Header - $200
AEM Fuel Rail - $170
AEM CAI - $280
Arias 11:5:1 Pistons - $475
Eagle Rods w/ ARP Rod bolts - $400
ACT Clutch - $500
ok here is what i would change...

Z6 Swap - $600
Skunk2 Exhaust... VRS 2.5" tubing kit & magnaflow muffler - $225
Skunk2 Camgear - $150
Skunk2 IM - $300
Skunk2 68MM TB...B Series Throttle body - $75
Supertech Valvesprings/Retainers - $350
Exospeed Stage 3 Z6/Y8 Camshaft - $260
Megan Racing Header.... something else! that header wont give you any power. there are some links below.
AEM CAI... waste of money, for that price you could have some home made ITB's
Arias 11:5:1 Pistons.... p29 pistons $150+/- a little new from honda.
Eagle Rods w/ ARP Rod bolts..... stock rods, shot peened, balanced and polished with arp rod bolts. - Free rods since you already have them and $100 for studs
ACT Clutch - $500.... Exedy stage one with aluminum flywheel - $550

Get a good port and polish done as well... with an N/A setup a good majority of your power comes from the head.

New price is $2760 without a header, intake or headwork.

Put all the extra money you saved into good engine management and some 310cc injectors and throw the rest into a good suspension setup if you dont have one already.
-Exhaust
http://www.vrsexhaust.com/TUBING_KITS/HONDA_TK/honda_tk.html


-Good Headers!
http://www.an-r.com/dseriesheader.htm
http://sms-products.com/Headers.html
http://www.bisimoto.com/wst_page6.html
 

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Hey guys, I'm looking to do a d-series n/a build on a budget. I'll have probably 5k to spend on the entire setup, so here's kind of what I'm thinking:

Z6 Swap - $600
Skunk2 Exhaust - $600
Skunk2 Camgear - $150
Skunk2 IM - $300 Blox
Skunk2 68MM TB - $400 overkill
Supertech Valvesprings/Retainers - $350
Exospeed Stage 3 Z6/Y8 Camshaft - $260
Megan Racing Header - $200 Spend money on DC-sports
AEM Fuel Rail - $170 No need
AEM CAI - $280 Ebay CAI with KN filter[/B]
Arias 11:5:1 Pistons - $475 buy some P-29's
Eagle Rods w/ ARP Rod bolts - $400 Sotck rods w/ ARP bolts
ACT Clutch - $500

Total - $4685. Leaves a few hundred dollars for gaskets, seals, oil, fluids, belts, etc.

Some people may ask why I'm throwing this much money at a N/A build when I could go turbo for less......well, I still live w/ my parents and I'm going to college next year, and my dad knows quite a bit about engines. If he were to look at the car and see a turbo or FMIC, they would kill me. Plus, i need something that will last me for 5 or so years. I don't know if a FI motor could do that.

So just for giggles, anybody care to guess how much hp to the wheels this thing would net me? Goal would be 160+, but whatever.....
There is a easy savings of a 1000
 

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Seriously, I just did a mild N/A build on my civic, and it cost way less than what you guys are throwing out there

Motor - D16A6


Upgrades

- Full MSD Blaster Ignition, coil, cap/rotor, 8.5 mm wires w/NGK iridium plugs
- Shaved head .030", and I opened the exhaust ports ALOT and poilished them myself, didn't bother with the intake, didn't want to hurt PV.
- DC header, 2.5 inch exhaust with whatever performance pipe came with the car, there isn't a name on it, its just loud as fuck and it rumbles!
- AEM adjustable cam gear
- AEM cold air intake with K/N filter

Yep, thats about it, and its quite fun to play around with, and it holds its own at the stop lights, I lucked out though, cause I had a buddy that sold me the spare A6 for a hundred bucks, but all I did was rip the head off, do some port work on the exhaust, gave it to Kraussharr machine in tillsonburg to shave the head ($70 for the shave). THen all the bolt ons, easy and cheap, and really you don't need the ignition I have, stock will work fine for N/A, It was already on my car, so I didn't fuck witha good thing!
Good luck!
 

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Seriously, I just did a mild N/A build on my civic, and it cost way less than what you guys are throwing out there

Motor - D16A6


Upgrades

- Full MSD Blaster Ignition, coil, cap/rotor, 8.5 mm wires w/NGK iridium plugs
- Shaved head .030", and I opened the exhaust ports ALOT and poilished them myself, didn't bother with the intake, didn't want to hurt PV.
- DC header, 2.5 inch exhaust with whatever performance pipe came with the car, there isn't a name on it, its just loud as fuck and it rumbles!
- AEM adjustable cam gear
- AEM cold air intake with K/N filter

Yep, thats about it, and its quite fun to play around with, and it holds its own at the stop lights, I lucked out though, cause I had a buddy that sold me the spare A6 for a hundred bucks, but all I did was rip the head off, do some port work on the exhaust, gave it to Kraussharr machine in tillsonburg to shave the head ($70 for the shave). THen all the bolt ons, easy and cheap, and really you don't need the ignition I have, stock will work fine for N/A, It was already on my car, so I didn't fuck witha good thing!
Good luck!
No offense to you in anyway but i wouldnt consider that an N/A build... all you did was shave the head, buy an ignition system that is pretty much worthless considering the stock honda ignition is plenty for a 400hp turbo motor and did a couple small bolt on's. i would be suprised if you pick up 15-20hp over stock with that setup.
 

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...considering the stock honda ignition is plenty for a 400hp turbo motor
I've heard 600 hp...

I agree, a cam and tune would probably give a lot more.
Together with a non restrictive intake manifold and a GOOD header, you should see some results.
 

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News to my ears. Go with the akmee kit. YOu can check out there website at Akmee.com how odd!!! anyway if you look at there build you can upgrade to the blox im(same as skunk2)get a b-series throttle body and smsp header. Thats a dope ass build right there throw in some nippon p29 with rings would net you 11.9:1 comp. Good to Go
My goal is 145whp with stock compression. Im going with the type s kit and a port and polish and the intake manifold/b tb. I think i could make an extra six hp with these mods.
GOod Luck
 

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No offense to you in anyway but i wouldnt consider that an N/A build... all you did was shave the head, buy an ignition system that is pretty much worthless considering the stock honda ignition is plenty for a 400hp turbo motor and did a couple small bolt on's. i would be suprised if you pick up 15-20hp over stock with that setup.
well, considering you can notice a 2 horse increase in a civic, then 15-20 horse on an almost stock honda 1.6 is pretty damn good considering I didn't spend more than $800

If I wanted to waste 5 grand on a good build, I would boost the fuck out of it. Also, we'lre talkin about my winter beater here...
 
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