my wheel stud broke .. how to change it?
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
ive done it with the hub on the car.... take the caliper off.. take the caliper bracket off take the rotor off... get a mini sledge.. or just a good hammer... pound on the wheelstud that you want to take out.. hit it out of the hub...
now theres only really 1-2 spots the studd will slide out at once u get it out putthe new one in and hammer it in....
ive changed wheelstuds in 5 minutes.. including taking the tire off...
now theres only really 1-2 spots the studd will slide out at once u get it out putthe new one in and hammer it in....
ive changed wheelstuds in 5 minutes.. including taking the tire off...
ive never had to grind part of the stud.. they usually just go back in for me on the front:TU:
oh yea thats right.. lol.. cuz i cut that little area of the dust cover to fit the stud lol.... it makes sense tho... i had to remove the whole hub to do wheelstuds in my friends 91 hatch.. ef's are a pain in my arse.. 92-00 is easy to do
Joined
·
1,815 Posts
Did the same thing no problem. Really tighten your tire's, then unstigten it, and makre sure the stud is in the proper postion. I didnt look to see if the stud was all the way in. damn near lost my tire. TWICE!
Joined
·
943 Posts
Grinding the flat spot on em keeps the threads from getting buggered.
grind the stud on one side, you will see why when you do it. to install it use your lug nut but turn it around backwards. so the flat side of the nut will be against the hub. that way you can tighten the nut and it will pull the stud into place. a washer might be a good idea to use to.
Joined
·
1,815 Posts
Thats the stupidest thing I ever heard. Why the hell would you grind down such a vital part? Their is a spot there you can pound in the stud from the back. You have to pound the Break dust guard down, but it will work.
Joined
·
4,112 Posts
Machine shop. Smartest/safest way to do it. No bullshit grinding needed. Honestly people why would you grind on the only things that keep your car connected to the ground??
Joined
·
1,815 Posts
Exactually. their are only 4 per tire on your 88-2000? civic.
knock out the broken stud with a hammer, put the new stud in, put a washer on it, take a lug nut and tighten it down till it pulls the stud all the way in... if you have air, it is a piece of cake... you dont have to remove the hub from the car at all, just the tire...
Joined
·
1,815 Posts
I heart you
impact gun is over 70% of the reason my studs fail.. stupid fuk'n tire shops... i tourqe all my lugnuts down to spec.. the dust shield is bolted to the hub.. that one part where the dust shield gets in teh way.. i cut off with dikes.... and i pound the wheelstud all teh way in with a hammer.... i never use a lugnut to "pull it in"..
some people do things different.. its just the way ive been doing it for 7 years with no problems.. rears are easy.. i just unbolt the 32mm nut and take the whole hub off.. pound them all out adn then place the hub on a 2x4 and pound them all back in.. piece of cake
i would NEVER grind down part of the stud to get it in. if you are patient and careful it can be done without the need to grind down anything or compromise the original structural integrity and design of the part as several of you have proven here.
you can use an impact gun to tighten lug nuts when putting the wheel on but what i ALWAYS do at my work is set my gun (a medium-sized blue point 1/2" impact) on the lowest setting (this is usually "1" on most guns) and just get it started so the wheel is snug against the hub and the nuts seats snug. then lower the car so the wheels touch just enough to not turn and torque the nuts to 80 lb-ft. ***REMEMBER** torque SLOWLY: yanking on the torque wrench too fast can give you an inaccurate reading and incorrect torque setting.
i agree that mosts shops just zip the nuts on with a gun full blast and that is WRONG. i'm gald i get to use our shop because no shop will ever touch my car for as long as i'm able to do my own work.
techs would probably grind down the stud because it cuts the time required to do the job. when you're on flat rate, every minute is money and that's why i don't like flat rate or some of the work performed by alot of flat rate techs. too much cutting corners, making shortcuts and compromising n quality for a bigger paycheque each week :sadface:
you can use an impact gun to tighten lug nuts when putting the wheel on but what i ALWAYS do at my work is set my gun (a medium-sized blue point 1/2" impact) on the lowest setting (this is usually "1" on most guns) and just get it started so the wheel is snug against the hub and the nuts seats snug. then lower the car so the wheels touch just enough to not turn and torque the nuts to 80 lb-ft. ***REMEMBER** torque SLOWLY: yanking on the torque wrench too fast can give you an inaccurate reading and incorrect torque setting.
i agree that mosts shops just zip the nuts on with a gun full blast and that is WRONG. i'm gald i get to use our shop because no shop will ever touch my car for as long as i'm able to do my own work.
techs would probably grind down the stud because it cuts the time required to do the job. when you're on flat rate, every minute is money and that's why i don't like flat rate or some of the work performed by alot of flat rate techs. too much cutting corners, making shortcuts and compromising n quality for a bigger paycheque each week :sadface:
:werd:
if i was to do it that way, i would pull it thru a bit, back off the lug nuts then pull it thru a bit more and repeat until it's done. that way ur not stressing it constantly.
ten years ago when i had a front stud strip out on me before i started tinkering with my car and long before i'd even fathomed i'd be working at the dealership, one of the techs who now works beside me installed a new stud this way and didn't have to grind down anything. he just removed the brakes, rotor and pulled it thru using this method :TU:
p.s. althought you don't get the same torque potential as air impact guns, electric impact guns are an adequate substitute if you don't have access to air tools :TU:
i changed all my stock lug studs out with blox extended wheel studs... the back went right on with this method, and yes, i did it slow and backed off the lugnut as to not to put a bunch of stress on the stud, the front, i had to pull the hub but keep in mind the extended studs are 3 inches long so it was neccassry... i personally find this method to work very well...
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Join the discussion
