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Discussion Starter #1
alright guys, this summer I'm planning on building my car into a turbo beast. its a 98 civic ex, and I'm aiming for 250 whp. I plan on going with a greddy kit for the z6 with hondata, 450cc dsm injectors and possibly a new fuel pump, which will be decided as I start aquiring the parts from the building. I'm getting the 5" intercooler from johnnyracecar.com. I also plan on using LS connecting rods if i can find a good deal. otherwise I'd just use an aftermarket rod specifically for my application so I dont have to deal with a machine shop. I'll be using a forged low compression piston. now I haven't decided on which piston set I'm going to use, so here are some questions I'm having.

1) someone recommend me some piston sets
2)do LS connecting rods need to be notched for my d16y8.
3)someone recommend me some after market rods if you think the ls ones stink.
4)is 250 whp reasonable? keep in mind this is my daily driver. it has almost 120k miles so I want this to be safe.
5) someone recommend a good aftermarket clutch that wont make my leg ache in rush hour traffic.

thanks guys

ps. the only thing I want the shop to be doing is the tuning, so I plan to do the entire install in my driveway one week. so feel free to leave some CONSTRUCTIVE, MATURE words of wisdom. thanks mah D series homies! :D
 

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Since you already have the block apart, I would just upgrade the rods to eagle. They aren't too expensive but the block DOES need to be notched to make them fit. Spec makes a good clutch, a lot of people use the ACT XTSS and they seem to like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ive heard that only certain eagle rods need to be notched. this less thick ones are ok, but thats only what I've heard. do the rods that require notching indicate that your block needs to be notched? thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just had an idea. my dad suggested that I buy a new block, just a short block for me to put this thing together. that way my car would still be running for the time I did the work. so how much do you guys think I can find a y8 short block for? oh yea, in my very first post I forgot to mention I'd be converting to OBD1.
 
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Get some eagle rods since they are only $300 and get pistons of your choice. You could probably find an extra shortblock for around 100 bucks. I would want a bigger turbo than the one that comes with the greddy kit. I would go with uberdata since it's free and works as well as hondata. I have the ACT xtss and it will be perfect for your goals.
 
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i liek endyn rollerwave pistons. www.theoldone.com. you cna not only get them from there, but also eagel rods too for a decent price.

shortblock is a great idea. you will need to rememebr that everything should bew going into it. (fyi all bearings, gaskets, oil and waterpump, along with new belts will cost you about $500 or so from honda) get better vlaves and springs. you don;t have to have titatuin retainers. some springs will work with stock retainers but you don;t want to rev those past 9g. the better springs and valves allow you to run higher boosting. stock head is reallyonly safe to about 16 or so. some push it past, but they take a chance of the presure floating the valves.

i perfer a clutchmaster's stage3 for anything udner 350 wheel power and stange 4 for over just nest to race performance.

^ said uberdata, but i dont liek how little support there is for it. some don;t mine because they liek to tinker. me, iw ant to go and not have to always worrie about this or that to adjsut. with other systems they are supported better and are less involved. you jsut plug in take the car to a shop and they tun. fyi a lot of shops on this area won't touch uberdata because there is no support and they don't wnat to deal with a tinkering type ecu. that means if they don;t tune them, that is less liability they ahve to deal with if it malfunctinos over a bad solderjoint or something else gone wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well I dont plan on boostin up to 16 psi. I'm aiming for 12. and I wasnt really planning on revving much past stock. I do plan on upgrading the greddy kit down the road. Since this will be my first turbo install, i just want it to be easy so as I learn I'll change out parts for better stuff. i'm definitely not using uberdata though. i know its worked great for some people but I dont wanna be tinkering with the ecu. i'm just gonna use the hondata that has lots of support and be safe.

ok so moving on. the first thing I'm buying is the short block. what do you guys recommend on looking for when shopping for this thing? also, what do I need to replace on it to be safe? keep in mind that I'm not boosting past 12 psi and that I am not made of money :lol: I do have some room in my budget coming up which is why I'm going with the project now, so when you guys suggest stuff, try and keep the cost down as much as possible. with that said, i still want to keep this engine safe for daily driving. keep the words of experienced wisdom comin!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
oh yea, and what about notching for the rods? which ones need it and which ones dont?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks hornet, so are the 5/16 rods significantly weaker or anything drastic that I should know about? or are they just a tad bit thinner near the bottom? thanks guys
 

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the 5/16 are just a bit smaller on the end

and you HAVE TO NOTCH all eagle rods regardless of bolt size

I dont get why everyone is so set on getting rods that dont need to be notched it isnt hard to do at all it takes an hour and a good die grinder and its not hard. i would just notch regardless a little extra clearance never hurt anyone

you can go here and get the DIY for block notching, its simple http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d_series_engine_building_tips/
 
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burningwrek said:
i'm definitely not using uberdata though. i know its worked great for some people but I dont wanna be tinkering with the ecu. i'm just gonna use the hondata that has lots of support and be safe.
Okay here's my rant for the day. The only big difference between hondata and uberdata is that hondata is $1,000+ and uberdata is free. I actually bought hondata, then when I realized it's the same fucking thing as uberdata so I sold it.

I'm not sure what you mean by tinker with your ECU because you have to socket your ECU with hondata the same way you do with uberdata. There's nothing different about that. Either way you go your paying for tuning and if they can tune hondata they can tune uberdata. What kind of support are you talking about? The uberdata forum is more than enough support and the creator of uberdata surfs the forum daily. Basically your paying a lot of money just so you can call somebody up and bitch if your car aint running right. What good will that do? If your car isn't running right you will have to rely on other people and take it in to a shop (unless you have the hondata with all the goodies and software, but that's $1,000+). That's more money there when you could have just got some help online and burnt another chip for your ECU (it's not hard at all).

Just do some research before you go spend all that money because I am really glad I did. If uberdata doesn't workout for you then no big deal, it's free. I just think once you learn more you might be a little mad you spent all that money when you didn't need to.
 
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Our setups are similar and we have the same engine so you could just use my ROM as a basemap. My timing is pretty conservative and my A/F ratio is in the 12's (it gets a little lean around peak torque, but would be easy to fix). It idles my 450cc injectors perfectly and the part throttle is damn near perfect. All you need to do is take it to a dyno with a wideband o2 and tune it for your car. This will save you a lot of time and money on tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
so what do I need to get this magical uberdata and get it running?
 
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I was afraid to mess up my ECU also, but if you can solder decent you should have nothing to worry about. My buddy socketed my ECU for me and it didn't look too difficult at all. How to socket your ECU... http://www.ecimulti.org/albums/album70/howtosocketyourp28.jpg

Once you have a socketed ECU you just need to burn the bin file (basemap) you made onto a chip. You will need an eprom programmer (chip burner) to do this. Then all you do is plug the ROM (chip) into your ECU and your good to go.

Here is the uberdata site and I suggest reading through everything including the forums... http://www.ecimulti.org/uberdata/
 

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Discussion Starter #19
beerbongskickass said:
I was afraid to mess up my ECU also, but if you can solder decent you should have nothing to worry about. My buddy socketed my ECU for me and it didn't look too difficult at all. How to socket your ECU... http://www.ecimulti.org/albums/album70/howtosocketyourp28.jpg

Once you have a socketed ECU you just need to burn the bin file (basemap) you made onto a chip. You will need an eprom programmer (chip burner) to do this. Then all you do is plug the ROM (chip) into your ECU and your good to go.

Here is the uberdata site and I suggest reading through everything including the forums... http://www.ecimulti.org/uberdata/
ok well that doesnt sound too hard. so any chip programmer will pretty much work? theres the eprogrammer 3.3 on progshop.com for about 80 bucks? will that do the trick or am i gonna need somethin else? and if all its gonna cost me is the $$ for the e programmer, the p28 and conversion harness then that sounds good to me. I'll pass on the pricey hondata.
 
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Yep the eprom programmer 3.3 will be fine. I also suggest looking into your own widebaned o2, you could proly get one for around $300 give or take a few bucks. It's not necessary, but you will be able to keep track of your A/F ratio and tune your car really well on your own with one. They usually come with datalogging software, but uberdata will have it's on datalogging pretty soon anyways.

On the uberdata forum in the "ROMs, Tunes, Scripts & Executables" there is a sticky at the top called "Master ROM Database" and you can find my bin file in there.
 
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