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Ok my turbo will be a TD04 19t from greddy with there manifold and hopefully Goautoworks.com dp. I have DSM 450cc injectors and DSM BOV. Taped oil pan with all the need lines and T's. For EM i want to go with Chrome and get an Innovative wide band O2. I hope to get a base map and tune off that. This will be my first time tuning but i am sure i can do it. I have read lots and lots about it. Now here is where i need some help i have heard/read that i should ditch the PCV and go with a catch can. Is there a fitting to fit where the pcv goes to let me run the hose to the can? Or does this come with the catch can? I have also heard a long time ago that people were having problem with there chips lossing the memery, has this been fixed through better chips or what? Also i am building a seperate block and head this will be nothing crazy just with ARP hardware, cosmetic HG, new rings and bearings. I was thinking about getting a block guard and have it welded in, what are the views on that? I am all ready running a Y8 manifold and TB so I will just be adding Hondata gasket.
 

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turbo setup sounds fine....

as for the PCV and Black box... lots of ppl still run them.... just make sure it's a pcv w/ the rattelly thing inside of it and not the straight thru kind like on most eg's

as for the chips.... go w/ "29c256"... xenocron has them along w/ the willhem burner www.xenocron.com

and the block gaurd... NO!!!! go here... http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=36739.0

Good Luck
Dr.Mike
 

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It was the rattle type PCV but i will look at both ways. So that filling and drilling is better then the block gaurd.
 

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For under 350 I'd not worry about filling or blockguard...just my opinion.
Ok i will consider that. I didnt think it would be needed. I will keep my current engine when i swap my semi-built one. Might sleeve it down the road when i take my hatch from being daily to weekend warrior.
 

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my GE block guard gave me no issues. 14k miles not one moment of high coolent temp. no distortion of the sleeves due to heat. it did no slip down from the top, it was not welded.

so i have no idea what you so worried about. imo, most people are using ones made for other engines (different coolant passage designes to match up with the head) or are using cheap ones made of inferior metals/alloys.

i'll try to find the pictures, so you don't think i am lying through my teeth. ;)

Yeah i live by "Do it right the first time"
then you will not find the info you need on this site. as this is a forum with opinions on building engines. no one way is going to be the "correct way", imho. other then sleeving the block (with wet sleeves) to maintain the same cylinder wall thinckness (or bigger) that honda designed for the block, again imho.

Can anyone verify this is the best for a boosted engine? I've been around the turbo for a while now, but I still lack knowledge after reading that entire thread.
read this thread also: http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=78178
if your still lost pm me and i will help you out more in detail. :TU:

For under 350 I'd not worry about filling or blockguard...just my opinion.
agreed
 

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What you want to do is get a vented catch can, run one hose from the valve cover to it , and another directly from the black box to it, dont try and go threw a gutted pcv valve as its a restriction, just go right off the black box, i have a thread about venting the PCV in this section look for it and toward the end you can see how i did mine.
 

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my GE block guard gave me no issues. 14k miles not one moment of high coolent temp. no distortion of the sleeves due to heat. it did no slip down from the top, it was not welded.

so i have no idea what you so worried about. imo, most people are using ones made for other engines (different coolant passage designes to match up with the head) or are using cheap ones made of inferior metals/alloys.

i'll try to find the pictures, so you don't think i am lying through my teeth. ;)


then you will not find the info you need on this site. as this is a forum with opinions on building engines. no one way is going to be the "correct way", imho. other then sleeving the block (with wet sleeves) to maintain the same cylinder wall thinckness (or bigger) that honda designed for the block, again imho.

read this thread also: http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=78178
if your still lost pm me and i will help you out more in detail. :TU:

agreed
I know there is no right way, i ment not a hack job. I might still run a block gaurd just for good measures. So getting it welded in would be a waste?

What you want to do is get a vented catch can, run one hose from the valve cover to it , and another directly from the black box to it, dont try and go threw a gutted pcv valve as its a restriction, just go right off the black box, i have a thread about venting the PCV in this section look for it and toward the end you can see how i did mine.

I am looking right now thanks, so leave the black box? any reason for that?
 

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Some weld the guards in, some tap them into place about 1/4" below the deck. It's up to you, but if I was to do either I'd tap it into place from fear from the heat of the welds would affect something adversely.
 

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Some weld the guards in, some tap them into place about 1/4" below the deck. It's up to you, but if I was to do either I'd tap it into place from fear from the heat of the welds would affect something adversely.
If you TIG welded it and did it slowly and with breaks to let it cool it would not heat it enough to distort it.
 

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the ones made by GE are not suppose to be welded in. per the instructions, you just tap it in sitting it flush with the deck. then of course deck the block to make it 100% flat.

i personally fo not recommend welding it in.
 

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the ones made by GE are not suppose to be welded in. per the instructions, you just tap it in sitting it flush with the deck. then of course deck the block to make it 100% flat.

i personally fo not recommend welding it in.
Got it that is the one i was going to go with.
 
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