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THE CRX
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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone here remember my thread from about 6 months ago explaining a parasitic draw on my battery?

How for no apparent reason the optima red top was drained of all power from just sitting there after only a couple of weeks?

well i thought i had found the issue, My main relay.

so i switched it out. fast forward to now. i have replaced the optima with a brand new die hard and the car runs fine.

I have let the car sit for almost 2 weeks now without starting it, but diehards are supposed to be able to sit for like a year or so right?

wrong.

Im not sure what happened this time, but my battery is dead....again.

i cant even jump it with my 12v jumper box. WTF? i said, not this bullshit for the third fucking time.

the second time involved an optima bluetop. battery drain .

the last time people said that the alternator went bad, but yet when i turned the car on and disconnect the battery it still runs.
im aware it has two functions though and can do one without the other.

heres the real kicker though. The car is ALL manual, it doesnt have power anything, what the fuck could possibly drain my battery when the car is off , and it doesnt even have a bumping stereo system? No amp, no monster cables, nothing.

Any more ideas i can go off of? this parasitic draw is seriously complicating things, and i have no idea why. #3rdbatterydeadfornoreason
 

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Did you do the test by putting a meter/test light between the neg cable and neg battery post? If so what was the reading/was light on?
 

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THE CRX
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Discussion Starter #3
Nope, i just did the laymans test, i can go to a local oreillys and get a real test done if need be. But i still feel that even with a bad alternator it shouldnt drain the battery when the car isnt even on or the battery being used.

Im hoping for right now unplugging it will do the trick when im not using it. But this is just weird.
 

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you dont have an alarm do you?

I missed the 1st thread..

Do what 2JZ said and see what you come up with
 

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Multiply the battery's reserve capacity(in minutes) by .25, this gets the allowable parasitic draw the battery can tolerate. It will be in milliamps.

Turn the car off and hook a volt meter up between the neg cable and neg battery post and read the amp reading. If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power. Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last. Perform the same steps for relays found in the fuse panel. Sometimes relay contacts can fail to release causing a drain. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse or relay. Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. You can also try unhooking the big wire from your alternator. The alternator can sometimes have a shorted diode that can cause amps to flow through the alternator's power cable and through the shorted diode and into the case and through the bolts and back to the negative battery terminal. This will drain a battery in a hurry. Make sure to read the ammeter before and after unplugging your Alternator.
 

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Multiply the battery's reserve capacity(in minutes) by .25, this gets the allowable parasitic draw the battery can tolerate. It will be in milliamps.

Turn the car off and hook a volt meter up between the neg cable and neg battery post and read the amp reading. If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power. Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last. Perform the same steps for relays found in the fuse panel. Sometimes relay contacts can fail to release causing a drain. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse or relay. Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. You can also try unhooking the big wire from your alternator. The alternator can sometimes have a shorted diode that can cause amps to flow through the alternator's power cable and through the shorted diode and into the case and through the bolts and back to the negative battery terminal. This will drain a battery in a hurry. Make sure to read the ammeter before and after unplugging your Alternator.
This^^^
 

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One bad diode of three in the alternator.

My 91 Civic will suck a battery down in 6 days. Leave the ground cable off and after sitting 3 months it fired right up.

New batts are only last 2 years, maybe three if you spent the extra money. Cheap outsourcing like your Mexican made Optifail.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
good advice guys, im going to have to go all the way thru and find this issue bit by bit.

appreciate the detailed write up there Honda dna. Rep for answers.
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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my name says Guest, but Im really a MEMBER
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Does anyone here remember my thread from about 6 months ago explaining a parasitic draw on my battery?

How for no apparent reason the optima red top was drained of all power from just sitting there after only a couple of weeks?

well i thought i had found the issue, My main relay.

so i switched it out. fast forward to now. i have replaced the optima with a brand new die hard and the car runs fine.

I have let the car sit for almost 2 weeks now without starting it, but diehards are supposed to be able to sit for like a year or so right?

wrong.

Im not sure what happened this time, but my battery is dead....again.

i cant even jump it with my 12v jumper box. WTF? i said, not this bullshit for the third fucking time.

the second time involved an optima bluetop. battery drain .

the last time people said that the alternator went bad, but yet when i turned the car on and disconnect the battery it still runs.
im aware it has two functions though and can do one without the other.

heres the real kicker though. The car is ALL manual, it doesnt have power anything, what the fuck could possibly drain my battery when the car is off , and it doesnt even have a bumping stereo system? No amp, no monster cables, nothing.

Any more ideas i can go off of? this parasitic draw is seriously complicating things, and i have no idea why. #3rdbatterydeadfornoreason

How many amps is the car drawing at rest?????
 

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New batts are only last 2 years, maybe three if you spent the extra money. Cheap outsourcing like your Mexican made Optifail.
The batteries I've had, the NAPA/O'reilly brands seem to only last 2-3 years. I now go to the Honda Dealership and get one for $100 (same if not cheaper than those other stores) and it comes with a 100 month warranty, but I haven't needed to return any yet. Where ever they are made, they do quality work. I've seen OEM batteries (Honda, Ford, etc...) last 6 years+. Something to consider.

If there is a draw then the battery is the least of your problems. But if there is no draw then the battery just won't hold a charge, and it's crap.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
How many amps is the car drawing at rest?????
i dont have an amp meter, cant tell you that at the moment.

all i know is that it draws on the battery for no reason i can think of. all of my connections are right, all i can tell is whether or not it has current.

Im going with what Transex said. im going to follow hondas write up and then see about replacing that alternator.

bout the only reality i can see. with no real stereo and everything else manual. I havent much to go on. Whatever is draining these batteries started awhile ago. So despite alternator running the engine at battery disconnect, im not convinced its doing its other job anymore.

which still begs me....whats draining the battery otherwise? bad cables?

so i unplugged the negative and hopefully the battery can help itself enough to react to my jumping it next time. Going to wait a couple days. Not blowing my starter turning it over and over.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Motor to frame ground is intact. So is the battery to alternator connection.

trust me ive been lookin....

didnt know EF's had issues with that though.
 

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my name says Guest, but Im really a MEMBER
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i dont have an amp meter, cant tell you that at the moment.

all i know is that it draws on the battery for no reason i can think of. all of my connections are right, all i can tell is whether or not it has current.

Im going with what Transex said. im going to follow hondas write up and then see about replacing that alternator.

bout the only reality i can see. with no real stereo and everything else manual. I havent much to go on. Whatever is draining these batteries started awhile ago. So despite alternator running the engine at battery disconnect, im not convinced its doing its other job anymore.

which still begs me....whats draining the battery otherwise? bad cables?

so i unplugged the negative and hopefully the battery can help itself enough to react to my jumping it next time. Going to wait a couple days. Not blowing my starter turning it over and over.

thread is at stand still. How the hell do you expect to diag electrical without a proper multimeter....
 

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thread is at stand still. How the hell do you expect to diag electrical without a proper multimeter....
Hell even a cheap/free ones HF gives out works for this.
 
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